A Local’s Guide to Bariloche - What to See & Do
Bariloche, with its Swiss-like alpine architecture and charming atmosphere at any time of year, is one of the most famous towns in Argentina, and certainly the most famous place in our Lake District, the region it calls home.
Found at the northern tip of Patagonia, this mountain and ski town is a favorite destination for outdoor lovers, who flock here during the summer to visit the nearby lakes, hike the countless trails, go mountain biking, and raft the rivers. Come winter, this is a popular ski destination, especially with wealthy Latin Americans, who flock here in droves to ski the nearby slopes and see and be seen at the trendy restaurants and bars/clubs in town.
More broadly, Bariloche is also the jumping off point from which to discover the rest of the Lakes District, and it’s a great base for a few days of sightseeing and activities in this part of Argentina.
For me personally, I first visited Bariloche in my 20’s, coming here with friends and hitchhiking our way around the region. Summer was our favorite time to visit, and we’d spend blissful days camping out in nature, enjoying the long days of sunlight, and whiling away the evenings sitting by lakeside bonfires.
To me, Bariloche and the Lake District represent pure freedom and pristine nature, and that’s what I hope you discover here as well!
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Table of Contents
Why visit?
Where is Bariloche and how to get here
When to visit
How long to spend
Where to stay
What to see and do
Restaurants and dining
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Why visit?
Overlooking Bariloche and Lake Nahuel Huapi. Photo: DaiMH21, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
There are few places in Argentina (and even the world, I’d dare to say) that offer as beautiful nature as what you’ll find on Bariloche’s doorstep. The town is surrounded by a series of lakes, often referred to as Region of the 7 Lagos, and each of them offers opportunities for hiking, canoeing, rafting, windsurfing, and so on.
While traipsing around the area surrounding Bariloche, you’ll also be traveling through the foothills of the Tronador, Otto, Campanario, Catedral, Runge, and López mountains, which I think are some of the prettiest in the country. There is an almost limitless number of hiking trails to explore, from short, easy walks to multi-day treks. There are also mountain biking routes crisscrossing the region, and great opportunities for climbers to get out onto the rocks.
At any and every moment, you’ll have forests, mountains, lakes, and rivers, and everything that they offer right at your fingertips.
And if you come in winter, Bariloche is one of the premier ski towns in Argentina, with big resorts like Cerro Catedral, Cerro Otto, and Cerro Bayo right nearby (Catedral is widely thought to offer the best skiing in South America). This is a huge winter destination, and during this season you’ll find tourists from all over Latin America and the world here to do some skiing.
With a distinctly upscale (and maybe somewhat pretentious) vibe at this time of year, Bariloche can be a bit like Aspen or other ritzy ski resorts in the US.
As for the town itself, this is a lovely little city that is often compared to those of Switzerland, owing to its Swiss-style architecture, wood constructions, and mountain lodge atmosphere. The magnificent lake Nahuel Huapi sits right on the border of town, and just outside of it are forests and woods filled with myrtle and rosehips.
The city’s downtown is always busy, and it has a fun and international vibe where locals and domestic and international visitors all mingle together in the many pubs and restaurants. There are also a few nice museums dedicated to local art and anthropological history, as well as lots of little shops perfect for picking up some gifts and souvenirs.
Bariloche has a thriving chocolate industry, so be sure to stop in to some of the chocolate shops to learn about the production process and to pick up some treats. And for a bit more indulgence, you’ll also find many breweries here that make excellent craft beers.
Where is Bariloche?
San Carlos de Bariloche, as the town is officially known, is in the northwest of Patagonia, in the province of Rio Negro. It lies within the Lake District and is quite close to the border with Chile, while Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, is about 1300 kilometers to the northeast.
Surrounded by lakes and lying in the foothills of the Andes mountains, Bariloche has a spectacular natural setting. And while the city itself has a population of about 160,000 residents, the surrounding area is quite sparsely populated, mostly dominated by the spectacular nature I’ve already talked quite a bit about.
How to get here
Being so far from Buenos Aires, typically the best way to reach Bariloche is by plane from the capital. The city has its own airport and there are regular daily flights between it and Buenos Aires, with the journey taking only about 2 hours.
You can also fly here directly from Chile, with about 5 flights per week arriving from Santiago.
By bus from elsewhere in Argentina: Depending on where you’re coming from, there are some instances (not that many though) where long-distance buses will make more sense than a flight as there may not be an airport where you are, or even if there is, you might need to make a connection in Buenos Aires first, which is a time-consuming hassle.
In these cases, you’ll usually have a good selection of overnight sleeper buses that arrive in here from other destinations in Patagonia, and major cities like Mendoza, Rosario, Cordoba, etc.
When to visit
Snowboarders on Cerro Catedral. Photo: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User: Boscos, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bariloche has two primary tourism seasons - summer and winter (plus the Easter holiday) -, and the town is usually absolutely mobbed with visitors throughout both periods. Tourism dies off significantly in the fall and spring, but even so, there are always visitors here at any time of year.
And in all cases, even though the town itself may be quite busy during the two high seasons, the surrounding area is vast and filled with many beautiful places to visit, so you will never find yourself bothered by crowds. Prices will be at their highest during the winter and summer and accommodation will book out quickly though, so you should plan ahead and make reservations well in advance.
In my opinion, Bariloche is best visited in the summer, as while the city might be crowded, you’ll have the best weather of any time of year and the days are wonderfully long, with daylight continuing easily until 9:00 PM.
Visiting in Spring (late September to late December)
Spring has sunny but chilly weather, with fairly cold mornings and evenings and pleasantly warm afternoons. Days start to get longer and you should mostly have blue skies, but you still need winter clothes and good rain gear as weather here is unpredictable.
This is a great time for cyclists, hikers, climbers, and outdoor lovers who don’t plan to go swimming and who can handle a bit of cold.
Visiting in Summer (late December to late March)
As I said above, the weather during the summer is excellent. Days are very long, rain is pretty rare, and daytime temps can reach as high as 36 degrees Celsius. If you want to get out into nature, go rafting and sailing, and swim in the lakes, this is the time of year to visit. Apart from the higher prices, there are really very few downsides to a summer trip to Bariloche.
Visiting in Fall (late March to late June)
Fall is the rainy season in Bariloche and for me, it’s the worst time of year to visit. It also begins to get cold quite quickly, with temperatures ranging from around 5 to 15 degress Celsius. Hiking, biking, and watersports of any kind are pretty unpleasant when it’s cold and rainy, so your options for activities will be pretty limited during this time (or you will have to be very hardy).
Even so, if you’re happy to mostly just bop around in the car, take advantage of any good weather you may have by getting outside, and like the idea of sitting by a fireplace (which many of the hotels and lodges have) while munching on smoked trout and drinking local beer or Torrontés (the local white wine), you could still have a perfectly nice time. Prices will also be at their lowest.
Visiting in Winter (late June to late September)
Bariloche is a classic ski destination, so a winter visit is an excellent choice. The area sees abundant snowfall in winter which is wonderful, but temperatures do get down well below freezing and days are very short, so you need to be prepared for that.
The skiing is fantastic at this time of year and the city will be filled with people from all over the world who come here to hit the nearby slopes. Lots of people who don’t ski still come to enjoy the festive atmosphere and pretty scenery.
Prices are high and the city is busy all season, but mid-July, when Argentines take their winter holiday, is the busiest month of them all, so I’d suggest trying to avoid it.
How long to spend here
Views from atop Cerro Campanario. Photo: ShingLord19, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bariloche itself is small and you can easily explore the town in a day or less. The surrounding area, however, is vast and has a ton to see and do, so if you want to visit the lakes, do some hiking or cycling, and get out on the rivers, you’ll need a minimum of 3 days in town.
If you have more time and want to see a bigger portion of the region, you could easily spend a week or more here, splitting your time between Bariloche and either Villa La Angostura or San Martín de los Andes, both a bit to the north.
3 days is pretty typical though, and if that’s the amount of time you have, here’s what I’d suggest:
Day 1: Bariloche city center, Lake Nahuel Huapi, Cerro Campanario viewpoint, dinner at Llao Llao hotel
Start your visit wandering around the pretty central squares and streets of Bariloche, and be sure to wander down busy Mitre Street, where you’ll find shops, restaurants, bars, and cafes. Make your way over to Lake Nahuel Huapi, the huge glacial lake whose shores Bariloche sits on, and have a stroll along the waterfront. Stop in at the Anthropologicial and Natural History museum to learn about the area and the culture of its original inhabitants.
Have lunch at Delirante Café, and then ride the ski lift up to the top of Cerro Campanario, the mountain that many regard as offering “the best views in the world”. There’s a café at the summit where you can grab a drink or snack and relax while enjoying the vistas.
Head back down to the city, continue exploring until dinner time, and then make your way to either Anima restaurant or Llao Llao Hotel, both of which have incredible food (be sure to book ahead).
Day 2: Boat trip on Nahuel Huapi Lake to the Quetrihue Peninsula and Arrayanes (Myrtle) Forest, a walk on Isla Victoria
Yesterday you walked along Nahuel Huapi but today it’s time to sail it! So head over to Puerto Pañuelo (Bariloche’s port) and book a ride out to Isla Victoria, the island in the lake.
The cruise takes about an hour, after which you’ll reach Anchorena Port on Victoria Island. Here, you’ll find coihue and cypress trees, small local deer, all kinds of exotic birds, seagulls, cormorants, and abundant and exquisite nature.
Part of Nahuel Huapi National Park, two thirds of the islands are not allowed for visitors, but one very pleasant walk runs from Puerto Anchorena on to Toro beach, a pretty volcanic stone beach.
After visiting the island, you’ll get back on the boat and continue on to the Quetrihue Peninsula, where you should disembark and make your way to the famous Myrtle forest, the only one in the world. This beautiful bush-like tree, with its star-shaped white flowers and wonderful scent has totally taken over the area and created a magical and very weird forest.
There’s a single trail that runs through the woods here and it will take around 2 hours to walk all of it. After the walk, head back to the pier (where you first disembarked) and hop on another boat to continue on to Anchorena Port on Victoria Island. Here, you’ll find coihue and cypress trees, small local deer, all kinds of exotic birds, seagulls, cormorants, and abundant and exquisite nature.
Finally, sail back to Puerto Pañuelo and end your day with a beer at a brewery fittingly named “Patagonia”. They also serve good picadas (things to snack on) like trout, salmon, fresh bread, and olives, so why not make a meal out of your visit?!
Day 3: Drive the 7 Lakes Route, stopping at Correntoso, Escondido, Lacar.
Bariloche lies within easy distance of 7 gorgeous lakes, all of which are connected via a series of well-maintained roads, and a visit to all 7 of them is a classic day trip from town. In total,, you’ll traverse 200 km (roun trip) and will have the chance to stop off at any lake you’re interested in along the way.
The lakes on this route are: Lakar, Machónicos, Falkner, Villarino, Escondido, Correntoso and Espejo Lake. All of them are beautiful, but since you have limited time, my advice is to stop only at Escondido, Correntoso and Lacar, as they are the most distinct.
Correntoso is huge and is perfect rafting and kayaking; Escondido is my favorite for swimming; and Lakar is the main lake of San Martín de los Andes, which is a great city to quickly check out.
Where to stay
The Llao Llao Hotel
Being a major destination for tourism, Bariloche has a ton of accommodation, with big corporate hotels, little boutiques, hostels, guesthouses and inns, and private apartments all in abundance. You’ll find options at all price points.
In general, there are 5 main areas that I would consider, and I should note here that a few of them are not actually right within the city center, as I think it usually makes more sense to stay on the outskirts of town or even further afield, as this provides better access to the lovely natural areas (which are really what you come to Bariloche for).
Here’s a quick overview of each:
Bariloche city center
If you won’t have a car while visiting, staying in the city center is the most practical choice. I’d suggest choosing somewhere close to the Centro cívico and Nahuel Huapi lake. You could stay a bit further from the center, but the streets are quite steep elsewhere in the city, meaning that you’ll end up with a lot of uphill walks back to your place at the end of the day.
The other advantage of the area is the social vibe: you will be close to the main bars, cafes and restaurants. There are also frequent buses crossing through this part of town.
Barrio Belgrano
If you’ll have a car and like staying in residential areas, Barrio Belgrano is a very nice option and you can often find places with fabulous views of the lake. Just be aware that the hills are pretty steep and there is no public transit of any kind.
Salta Street
This is the street where most of the main hostels are located, so if you’re a backpacker and are on a budget, this is probably where you should look.
“Los Kilómetros”
Locals call “Los Kilómetros” the area to the west that wraps all around Nahuel Huapi Lake. This whole stretch borders the lake, is extremely pretty, and you’ll mostly find short-term apartment rentals. The main neighborhoods to consider are Melipal and Playa Bonita.
You’ll certainly want a car if you stay here, but the number 10 and 20 buses that run along the lake do pass through here, so there is some public transit.
Villa Catedral
This area is good if you’re coming to ski during the winter, as it’s right next to Cerro Catedral, the premier ski resort in the area. The hotels and short-term rental apartments here are geared toward people visiting on ski trips and most of them are very nice. They’re also very expensive though. There are some public buses that pass nearby and which will take you downtown.
My favorite hotels in town:
LLAO LLAO hotel: This is a high-end hotel that showcases typical Bariloche alpine/Swiss-style architecture. Most rooms have great views of the lake (and all the common areas do) and the onsite restaurant and spa are both excellent. Considering how lovely it is, the approximately $200 USD that you’ll spend per night is actually a pretty good bargain.
Eco Cabañas Fardos del Bosque: A lovely house literally on the lake and totally immersed in nature, the views here are extraordinary. Without question, this is my favorite place to stay in and around Bariloche. Just be aware that the cabanas are 18 kilometers from Bariloche’s downtown, so this is not in or near the city. There are actually public buses that pass by though, so you could in theory stay here without a car. Nightly rates from around $100 USD.
URBANA APARTMENTS 413: Just a 5-minute walk from the city center, this is a nice building with high-quality apartments that are available for short-term rent. If you visit in summer, you’ll be pleased to know that the building has a little pool for guests. Around $75-$100 per night for an apartment.
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What to see and do
As I’ve explained so far in this article, Bariloche is a very pleasant town in its own right, but it has relatively little in the way of “marquee” sights or attractions. Rather, the main appeal of a visit here is the surrounding nature, so the list below includes a few nice things to see and do in town followed by a host of wonderful natural areas and excursions within short driving distance.
1. Check out the sights on Desert Expeditioners’ Square
An aerial view over the square and civic center. Photo: PaolaSegade, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Walking along busy Independence Street will take you to Bariloche’s main square - Desert Expeditioners Square -, which is where you’ll find the Civic Center and a host of other important buildings.
Those include: the Provincial Police headquarters, city hall, the tourism department’s offices, Sarmiento Library, the Patagonia Museum, and Emilio Frey Exhibition Hall.
There are also a couple of interesting wooden sculptures and a monument to Julio Argentino Roca, one of our former presidents. The Civic Center, the grandest of the buildings on the square, has been a National Historical Monument since 1987 and it faces straight onto the gorgeous Nahuel Huapi Lake.
2. Calle Mitre - stroll and shop
Calle Mitre. Photo: Raf24~commonswiki, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Bartolomé Mitre Street is the main artery of Bariloche and the street is lined with shops, cafes, restaurants, and boutiques selling high-end goods and handmade products. There are also libraries, galleries, and tourist offices too.
This was the first avenue to be paved in Bariloche and it is the most traditional and local street to walk about. You’ll find all sorts of interesting places to stop in at here.
3. Francisco Moreno Museum of Patagonia
The Francisco Moreno Museum of Patagonia is a natural history and cultural anthropology museum located in Bariloche’s civic center. It was inaugurated in 1940 as part of the unveiling of the Bariloche Civic Center, which was commissioned by the national government as part of an effort to promote Bariloche, which at that time was a little visited ski resort town in the remote Rio Negro Province. How times change!
The museum, and its accompanying Domingo Sarmiento Public Library and Bariloche City Hall, were designed by Ernesto de Estrada.
4. Sister Cities Square (Plaza Ciudades Hermanas)
At the corner of Avenida San Martin and Independence Street is the beautiful Sister Cities Square, which honors Bariloche’s sister city of Aspen, Colorado. Right behind the Municipal Tourism Department and the post office, the square is lined with trees and flowers and it’s a nice place where locals come to relax and chat.
5. Premier Gallery
Inside the Hotel Premier on Rolando Street, this is a contemporary art gallery that displays all types of visual art made by local artists. They hold temporary exhibitions and it’s a great spot to see what local artists here are working on.
6. Flags Square (Plaza de las Banderas)
Flags Square, a small grassy park right by the water, is famous for the Paseo de las Colectividades (Walk of Nations), a walkway which showcases the flags of the many countries (and in some cases the regions of them) that people immigrated to Bariloche from.
7. Bariloche Paleontological Museum
This is an interesting little museum that displays dinosaur fossils and other historical artifacts that have been found in Bariloche and northwestern Patagonia. It’s a total change of pace from everything else you’ll be doing while in town, so can be fun to mix in with your sightseeing.
8. The chocolate shops
This town is famous for its chocolate industry and you’ll find lots of great sweet shops along Mitre Street. I recommend two of the most traditional and best quality ones: Abuela Goye and Mamuschka. I personally prefer the latter because all their stuff is gluten free. Another one, Rapanui, is also really good.
9. Cerro Catedral (Mount Catedral)
Snowboarders on Cerro Catedral. Photo: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User: Boscos, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lago Toncek and the Cerro Catedral Massif, near Refugio Frey. Photo: Justraveling.com, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Cerro Catedral is the largest ski resort in Latin America and the views from the mountain are unbelievable. Located about 20 minutes from Bariloche’s city center, you can reach it by bus lines 55 or 50. There’s tons of great skiing to be had here and the resort offers lessons for inexperienced skiers or snowboarders.
While skiing is the main attraction here, the resort is open during the summer as well, and you can come here to go climbing, mountain biking, or rappelling. There is also fantastic hiking all over the mountain, with lots of trails and a network of “refugios” - mountain huts - that you can stay overnight in.
The chairlifts don’t run every day outside of the winter season, so be sure to call ahead to make sure they’ll be running when you visit.
10. Cerro Otto (Mount Otto)
On the south bank of Nahuel Huapi lake, Cerro Otto is well-known for its nice network of hiking and biking trails, and in winter, there’s of course good downhill skiing as well as many cross-country tracks.
And even if you have no interest in skiing or biking/hiking, the views from the summit are great and the ride on the cable car to get there is spectacular. There’s a classic café up at the top that slowly spins 360 degrees, giving you incredible views while you have a coffee, beer, or a meal.
11. Isla Victoria + Bosque de Arrayanes (The Myrtle Forest)
Puerto Anchorena on Isla Victoria. Photo: Wernerluis, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
The walkway through the Arrayanes forest
The sailing trip from Puerto Pañuelo to Victoria Island and the Myrtle Woods (Bosque de Arrayanes) is one of the most scenic excursions you can do in the Bariloche area. To reach these two areas, you’ll board a boat at Puerto Pañuelo (located near the iconic Llao Llao Hotel) on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi.
From there, you’ve got about a one-hour ride across the lake, during which you’ll be treated to stunning views of the Andes mountains and the lake’s crystal-clear waters.
Usually, the first stop is Victoria Island, a beautiful, forested island rich in native flora and fauna. Here, you’ll find coihue and cypress trees, small local deer, all kinds of exotic birds, seagulls, cormorants, and abundant and exquisite nature.
Part of Nahuel Huapi National Park, two thirds of the islands are not allowed for visitors, but one very pleasant walk runs from Puerto Anchorena on to Toro beach, a pretty volcanic stone beach.
Afterward, hop back on the boat and continue on to the Quetrihue Península, you’ll find the famous Myrtle Forest, one of the few of its kind in the world. This beautiful tree with its colorful bark, star-shaped white flowers, and wonderful scent has totally taken over the area and created a magical and very weird forest (some of the trees are hundreds of years old!). There’s a single trail that runs through the woods here and it will take around 2 hours to walk all of it.
Afterwards, the boat will take you back to Puerto Pañuelo.
12. Sail from Bariloche to Puerto Blest
Ships at the pier in Puerto Pañuelo. Photo: Eremisua, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Puerto Blest
The trip to Puerto Blest is another beautiful boat ride along Lake Nahuel Huapi. Also starting in Puerto Pañuelo, you’ll sail about 20 kilometers across the lake to Puerto Blest, cruising under some spectacular mountains the whole way. At Puerto Blest, the Frías River and its greenish-tinted waters feed into the lake and you’ll be surrounded by temperate Valdivian rainforest.
Hop off the boat and set off exploring Puerto Blest and/or hiking on the nice nearby trails. A very popular one leads to Cántaros Waterfall, just across the bay. Puerto Blest has a small hotel near the pier that organizes various outdoor activities depending on the weather and the season, so be sure to check with them if you’re interested in an organized excursion.
You can also visit the nature interpretation center to learn more about the local ecosystem.
This is an unbelievable trip with once-in-a-lifetime views and it’s a great way to just relax and clear your mind.
13. The Circuito Chico
This is a route of about 60 kilometers that takes you through some of Bariloche and its surroundings most iconic spots. You can do the route on foot, by bike (you’ll find rentals in town), by bus, or by car.
As you enter the Llao Llao Peninsula, the road eventually takes you over the Angostura Bridge and eventually on to Panormaic Point and its a wonderful journey with lots of great stops in between.
When you first cross into the peninsula, the mountains close in around you spectacularly and I don’t think it’s an exaggeration to say that the views at the Point will literally stop you in your tracks.
You’ll see Lake Moreno, the Llao Llao Hotel, and Nahuel Huapi, all with the mountains towering above and around you. The photos that you may have already seen can’t possibly do it justice. Trust me.
To being the route, start right in the city center on Bustillo Avenue, heading toward Playa Bonita, where you can relax by the shore of Nahuel Huapi Lake. From there, continue to the Cerro Campanario chairlift, which will take you to the top of the mountain and offer you what lots of people say is one of the best views in the world – I wouldn’t disagree! It’s truly magical.
After, continue toward the Llao Llao Hotel, but just before you arrive, you’ll pass San Eduardo Chapel, built in 1938 with a distinct European influence. It’s a charming place, but the real highlight is the beautiful landscape that surrounds it.
Just a short drive ahead, the trail to Cerro Llao Llao (the Mount Llao Llao summit) begins. It’s about a 2.5 km hike to the top, where you’ll find more incredible views. Come back down after and continue along to Villa Tacul, a lovely lakeside spot where the ruins of a long-ago demolished hotel still stand. Some of the best beaches in the area are here.
From Villa Tacul, you’ll go to Puente Arroyo La Angostura (a bridge), the point where the Llao Llao Peninsula ends and where Lake Nahuel Huapi and Lake Perito Moreno meet. The banks of the stream make for a great spot to take a break, enjoy a drink, or just soak in the beauty of the area.
Keep forging ahead and in just a few kilometers, you’ll hit Punto Panorámico (Panoramic Point), which is one of the best viewpoints on the route. There’s a spacious parking area, and from here, you can see Lake Perito Moreno at your feet, the Llao Llao Peninsula, and Lake Nahuel Huapi in the background. This is a sight that will stay with you for the rest of your life.
Finally, before you finish the circuit, consider making a detour to Colonia Suiza, a small town where you’ll find lots of restaurants specializing in Curanto (a local dish), and a craft market. There’s also the Berlina beer factory and plenty of good food stalls.
From Colonia Suiza, head back to the circuit road and return to Bustillo Avenue back in Bariloche.
14. Drive the Route of the Seven Lakes (Camino de Los Siete Lagos)
A beach along Lago Espejo. Photo: Marianobruno, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Croppe from original
Lago Correntoso. Photo: Bandurrias, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lago Lácar. Photo: Marco Antonio Correa Flores, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Route of the Seven Lakes is a driving itinerary that connects 7 of the most beautiful lakes in the Lakes District, spanning from Bariloche to Villa La Angostura and on to San Martín de Los Andes (three of the main cities in the north of Patagonia).
The route runs almost entirely along Ruta 40, and the lakes portion is a well-paved road that stretches 110 kilometers-long (each way). There are signs along the route for each of the various lakes, and while there are 7 officially designated ones (Machónico, Falkner, Villarino, Escondido, Espejo, Correntoso, and Nahuel Huapi) there are a bunch of others that are equally lovely - Lago Lácar, not on the list, is one of the my personal favorites.
It’s possible to see all 7 of the lakes in a single day, but to do so you’ll have to be on the road quite a lot and won’t be able to spend much time at any of them. I think it’s better to choose a few in advance that you’d like to visit and plan a day around just those ones.
In fact, if you have a lot of time to spare, you can even stay overnight at many of them as there are nice accommodations at most in addition to campgrounds. During the summer, it’s super common for people to camp around the lakes, and I have done it many times. It’s wonderful and is a bit of a way of life here in the summer. Any good backpacker (or former one) will tell you the same.
There are restaurants as well, but I highly recommend packing a lunch and planning to have a picnic by the lake. This is what locals do and it’s such a treat to sit on the shore of a beautiful lake while having a meal and lounging in under the bright, warm sun.
And if you want to get out on the lakes, you can of course go swimming, but many of them also have facilities where you can rent kayaks, canoes and other equipment. You can rent by the day or half-day. Some even offer organized excursions, with those primarily being Lakes Gutierrez, Mascardi, and Nahuel Huapi.
14. Lago Escondido
Lago Escondido is a precious place of hidden beauty, located quite close to the Andes Mountains. It’s very well known in Argentina due to a very contentious conflict between private interests who tried to restrict access to the lake despite its waters being totally open to public use.
That unpleasant history aside, it’s still a great place to visit, even if it will take a bit of work to get there. First, you need to get to the KM 25 marker on Avenida Bustillo, from where you’ll follow the paved Circuito Chico (this is the route I talked about in item 12 above) for about 4km.
You’ll then come across a house for park rangers, and that’s where the short trail that takes you down to the lake is. The trail is very pleasant and the walk is easy, so despite being “hidden”, it won’t take too much work to get here.
The waters of the lake are great for swimming, as they are perfectly calm and delightfully turquoise-colored. There’s a 4-meter high pier that stands above the lake, and since the water is quite deep, you can total jump in form there (I’ve done it myself and while a bit intimidating, it’s quite a thrill).
15. Nahuel Huapi National Park
Covering 7,000 square kilometers, almost everywhere that I’ve talked about so far in this article lies within the boundaries of Nahuel Huapi National Park. This is the oldest national park in the country (established in the 1930’s), and it’s the one that largely set the parameters for land conservation within Argentina.
Here, you’ll find a sampling of all the nature that Patagonia is known for: high mountains, huge glacial lakes, wild rivers, deep forests, and the high steppe.
Bariloche and Villa La Angostura, the two towns that I’ve talked about at various points, are also within the park’s boundaries, as is, of course, the majestic Lake Nahuel Huapi. The Arrayanes Forest, with its wonderous myrtle trees is here, as is Puerto Blest, whose fjord-like inlets are a delight to behold.
For mountains, Cerros Tronador, Catedral, López, Otto, and Campanario are only some of the selection within the park, and between them all you have a limitless number of trails, rock climbing routes, and skiing slopes.
16. Villa La Angostura
Villa La Angostura. Photo: Arcibel, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Views of the Quetrihue Peninsula and Bahia Mansa, just outside of town. Photo: SoleFabrizio, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Villa La Angostura is another very pretty Swiss-style Alpine town (it’s known as the garden of Patagnoia) about 80 kilometers northwest of Bariloche, also lying on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Los Arrayanes National Park, famous for its rare, centuries-old Arrayán trees has tons of great hiking right next to town, and Cerro Bayo, a mountain and ski resort with excellent slopes is also super close by.
The Siete Lagos road, which I outlined in detail above, passes through here before continuing on to San Martín de Los Andes, further to the north, so you can easily hop on the route and cruise to a bunch of the beautiful lakes.
Where and what to eat
While here, there are some foods that you absolutely should not miss trying: fresh or smoked trout are both super typical, Patagonian roast lamb is an unbelievable feast, and pine mushrooms, raspberries, cranberries, and all sorts of other berries grow throughout the region.
Locals here adore cafes and they very much like to go out for tea, so you’ll find lots of traditional teahouses in town and throughout the region.
As I mentioned before, there is also locally produced wine, a great craft beer tradition, and the wonderful chocolate shops.
Here are a few of my favorite spots in town:
Delirante Café
A very local café, they serve very good and very traditional medialunas (croissants), a local sandwich called tostado (jam and cheese on good toasted bread), nice scones and muffins, and Welsh-style cakes.
Anima Restaurante
This is a gourmet restaurant but the atmosphere is super relaxed and unpretentious. You can eat oysters, trout and other local fish, and all sorts of vegan-friendly options too, and everything is done in a haut cuisine style but with a friendly, casual vibe.
The restaurant is outside of the center along the Circuito Chico.
Cassis House
Close to Gutierrez Lake, this was once a family’s house but has now been converted into a restaurant. They also have a winery and produce their own olive oil and vinegar. The food is great and the grounds are lovely. Eating here is just an entirely charming experience.
LLao LLao Hotel
This iconic and famous hotel has a couple of different bars and restaurants, and the food is excellent at all of them. Definitely not cheap, but great food in an incredible establishment.
Patagonia and Manush
These are two of the most popular breweries in town, and they each brew a nicely varied mix of good beers. There are tons of other breweries as well, but Patagonia and Manush are classics.
Rapanui and Mamushka
If you can’t guess by now, I’m a fan of sweets, which is why I’ve mentioned Bariloche’s chocolate shops a bunch of times throughout this article! Well, Rapanui and Mamushka are the two most famous chocolatiers, and in addition to excellent chocolate, they also make wonderful ice cream and cakes.
In case you’re curious about why chocolate is such a big thing here, it’s because after World War II, many Italians from the Alpine areas of the northwest of the country (near Switzerland) immigrated here, and among them was a couple from Torino - Aldo and Inés Fenoglio - who were pastry chefs.
They started making chocolate shortly after they arrived and ended up founding what would become one of the biggest and best chocolate companies in the country. This local industry only grew from there.
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