Where to Stay in Tokyo - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide

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I get it, planning a trip to Tokyo is like cliff diving: you want to take the plunge, but determining where you should land is terrifying. Tokyo is one of the world's largest cities and operates in a language that isn't easy for English speakers to fake, so there is a major intimidation factor for first-time visitors to Japan.

As a long-time resident, I hope to alleviate some of your fears; Tokyo is an amazing city, and exploring what it offers isn't as scary as it appears.

For the most part, the public transportation system in Tokyo is so robust that you have many convenient choices regarding neighborhoods you can stay in. The main factor should be how well the area's vibe matches your personality rather than its proximity to places you want to visit.

So, let's start things off with an overview of Tokyo's general geography (included in the section below) and I’ll then delve into the six neighborhoods that I recommend, especially for first-time travelers.


Table of Contents

    Overview of Tokyo’s layout

    Until the late 19th century, Tokyo was known as Edo and was the center of the Japanese political world. The Shogun, who united Japan and ruled since the early 17th century, made his home here, and all the other lords ruling different regions of Japan were required to make their home in Edo several months out of the year so they couldn't dream up any revolutionary schemes from their castles far away.

    The center of Edo was Edo Castle, home of the Shogun. But when the Shogunate was dismantled by the Western-friendly Meiji government, the city was renamed Tokyo. The Emperor, who formerly resided in Kyoto, was invited to move his residence to the site of the former castle, which became the Imperial Palace.

    Today, the Imperial Palace is the center of all things Tokyo. Now imagine a circle drawn by a 3-year-old in crayon around the Palace. This vaguely circular route is the Yamanote Line, Tokyo's central train line connecting most of the city's major neighborhoods. From any station on the Yamanote Line, you are no more than 30 minutes away from any other station, so most of my recommendations will be in neighborhoods connected by this train line.

    Now, let's introduce some geography into the equation. Edo Castle/Imperial Palace wasn't always the center of the city. It was actually built near major rivers and Tokyo Bay.

    However, to secure the city and create commercial areas in the growing city, the Shogun ordered large parts of the bay to be filled in, making the large, flat area east and southeast of the current-day Imperial Palace. Many of these areas, known as shitamachi, were inhabited by the working class, merchants and artisans, so they were known as lively areas rich in food, shopping, and entertainment.

    West of the castle, the geography was rolling hills and areas of natural beauty. Less densely populated, this area was known as Yamate (where the name Yamanote originated from), the "land near the mountains." Residences in this area were reserved for the affluent classes: ranking samurai and the second residences of lords from other areas of Japan. These wealthy landowners invested in things of beauty, like building strolling gardens, temples, and shrines.

    Today, the division of wealth and poverty between the neighborhoods is no longer as prominent, but the origins of the neighborhoods can often still be seen in their modern-day appearances. Shitamachi areas like Marunouchi are still destinations for diners and shoppers, while Yamate areas like Bunkyo-ku boast sprawling Japanese gardens originally built by samurai lords. Let's take a closer look at a few of these areas.


    Quick summary of my 6 recommended neighborhoods

    As I mentioned earlier, most of the neighborhoods that I’ve recommended are connected by the Yamanote Line, making this circular train route the most convenient way to get from one destination to another no matter which neighborhood you ultimately choose.

    Apart from the Yamanote train, many subway lines crisscross through the city, offering access to neighborhoods not right along this principal line. Most of these subways intersect the Yamanote Line at major stations, so you will still need to use this train to get to many places in Tokyo.

    In all cases, regardless of where you choose to stay and what subway lines pass through the area, I’d recommend choosing a hotel/accommodation that is within a short walk of a subway station. Tokyo is huge and you will undoubtedly need to use the subway regularly to move about, so the best thing you can do to cut down on travel times is find somewhere nearby a station.

    With that point about transit covered, here are the 6 neighborhoods that I think make the most sense for visitors, especially anyone on a first visit or with only a few days in the city:

    1. Marunouchi and Ginza (yellow above)

    Let's start things off in the heart of Tokyo, in Marunouchi, which covers the area between Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace. This is Tokyo's original business downtown and many major companies still call the neighborhood home. Just south of Marunouchi is Ginza, the world-famous shopping district that once boasted, for lack of a better word, the highest land prices in the world.

    Distinctly high-end areas, albeit with a rather commercial/business-oriented atmosphere, Marunouchi and Ginza sparkle with mostly understated wealth, although spotting a million-dollar Maclaren supercar cruising by isn't unusual either. The location for both neighborhoods simply cannot be beat and the ease of access that they afford to big sights and other places of interest is incredible.

    2. Ueno (purple above)

    Just north of Marunouchi and still very central is Ueno, a former temple district now best known for Ueno Park, one of central Tokyo's largest green spaces that contains a zoo and several large museums. A relaxed area with a pleasantly old school and residential atmosphere, Ueno is full of little shops and affordable restaurants.

    Many mid-range hotels have also popped up in the neighborhood, likely because of its direct access to both of Tokyo's international airports.

    3. Shinjuku (red above)

    Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's best-known neighborhoods, and it’s an extremely lively area that offers a great mixture of business and leisure/entertainment districts. The busiest train station in the world is here, so the crowds are always churning, and when the trains stop, the literally countless number of bars and restaurants keep the doors open for those left stranded.

    If you’re looking to experience frenetic energy, big city lights, and the Tokyo you’ve seen in films and TV shows, you’d be hard pressed to do better than Shinjuku.

    4. Roppongi (black/grey above)

    Roppongi was a notorious party town for most of the latter half of the 20th century, but it has recently cleaned up its act (mostly). Today, it’s a mixed residential and commercial area that attracts upscale visitors with its wealth of luxury hotels, very exclusive restaurants, and glitzy rooftop bars.

    Roppongi also has a strong artistic streak though, so it’s not all high-end consumerism here, and the neighborhood is home to some of the city's best art museums and galleries. Overall, it’s an interesting mix.

    5. Shinagawa (green above)

    Fairly far south and well out of the center of the city, Shinagawa was once all business, a bland and industrial area beside Tokyo Bay that had lots of warehouses and affordable hotels owing to its proximity to Haneda airport. The area has changed significantly in recent years though, with industrial spaces repurposed into exhibition halls and formerly vacant land developed into apartment complexes and shopping/entertainment areas.

    It’s a livable, laid-back, and pleasantly mixed commercial/residential area that’s much quieter and more “utilitarian” than some of the more central neighborhoods that I’ve recommended. It presents an interesting change of pace and one thing that hasn’t changed over the years are the good hotel deals on offer.

    6. Asakusa (blue above)

    Last but not least is Asakusa, a historic part of the city and the home of Tokyo's largest and most famous temple complex, Sensoji. The area is constantly full of tourists and the businesses that cater to them, and you might think it’s all one big tourist trap. You’d be mistaken though, as there are many authentic shops and businesses that have existed here for centuries. You just need to know how to find them.

    Being an older part of the city, there are fewer high-rises here and it feels a bit more livable; built on a normal human scale. It’s somewhat out of the way in the north of the city though, and the constant hordes of tourists are a definite drawback.


    1. Marunouchi and Ginza - The sparkly side of Tokyo

    Pros: Easy access to Tokyo Station (Shinkansen bullet train, Yamanote Line, and airport access), upscale and reasonably quiet, great shopping and dining

    Cons: Tends to be more expensive (both accommodations and dining), not much nightlife

    Chuo-Dori, Ginza’s main street, on a car-free Sunday. Photo: Wpcpey, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    High rise buildings in Ginza

    Tokyo Station and surroundings in Marunouchi at night. Photo: Yoshiyuki Ito, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped

    Gyoko Street in Marunouchi looking toward Tokyo Station. Photo: Kakidai, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Marunouchi and Ginza are central neighborhoods close to Tokyo Station, the major transportation hub of the early days of modern Tokyo. While Marunouchi is a business district that is home to some of Japan’s oldest and most prestigious companies, Ginza is a glitzy upscale shopping area with flagship stores of many of Japan’s major brands.

    Marunouchi and Ginza are pleasant strolling neighborhoods as the streets tend to be broad and many are closed to motorized vehicles in the evening or on weekends. The shops are high-end fashion and design and great fun for window shopping, although a bit hard on the wallet. My pockets are not lined with gold, but I still come here often to enjoy the many museums and art galleries or have a quiet dinner date with my wife.

    Despite being primarily commercial/business-oriented areas, both neighborhoods are surprisingly well-balanced for visitors. They’re close to all the action via the train and subway lines that connect them to the rest of the city, but are quiet enough to get some respite from the city’s buzz when you need a little downtime.

    There are also many bars and restaurants around here, a bit higher class than average, but not necessarily extravagant. Given all the workers, you’ll find lots of good and reasonably priced lunch places (dinner is more expensive though).

    When it comes to the evenings, things do get quiet quickly, as most of the people who you’ll see here are workers who live elsewhere. So, after the offices close for the day, most people leave the area, and lots of restaurants and shops close down at around the same time. This isn’t to say that no one lives here (lots of people do - evidenced by the big apartment blocks), but the atmosphere does change remarkably between daytime and nighttime.

    There’s also very little nightlife to speak of, so if you’re looking for buzzy evenings hopping from one bar to the next, this is not the place to do it. The exception to this is from about mid-November to mid-February, when the trees lining the main boulevards are lit with thousands of LED lights, creating a romantic setting for an evening stroll - lots of people show up to enjoy the atmosphere.

    Four and five star hotels are abundant in this area, including the Yaesu side of Tokyo Station, the opposite side of Marunouchi. There are mid-range hotels too, and because this part of the city is quiet at night, you can sometimes find good deals around here during off-peak seasons. For those who put a high value on good quality hotels, this is a great area.

    Your access to the rest of the city is also excellent, as the neighborhoods are very central and transit times to many of the big touristic sights and other neighborhoods of interest are generally pretty quick.

    And for anyone interested, here’s a little more on the history and character of each area:

    The history of Marunouchi, and modern Japan, for that matter, began in the late 19th century. The Iwasaki family, who controlled Japan's largest conglomerate, Mitsubishi, purchased this barren grassland with a vision of building a business district rivaling New York and London. Mitsubishi built the first office building here in 1894, and more buildings followed, spurred by the completion of Tokyo Station in 1914.

    Ginza, on the other hand, was rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1872 in fireproof brick. Although most of the original brick structures are gone (the design wasn't well received by foreigners or Japanese alike), it became a popular area for shops promoting the latest trends, a reputation it continues to uphold.

    Although the area has modernized with the times, Tokyo has taken great care to preserve its historical beauty. To me, in the constant churn of modernization of Tokyo, Marunouchi is one place I feel will always retain the character of its 19th century history.

    The Marunouchi side of Tokyo Station was renovated a few years ago to its former glory, before the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and Allied bombings of WW2 took it down a peg, while the opposite Yaesu side of the station received a more modern glass-and-steel visage.

    Even the skyscrapers of Marunouchi still pay homage to its historic roots; look carefully at most of the buildings and see where the rooflines from a century ago, limited to 100 feet high, divide the original structure of the buildings from the dozens of new floors added above them.

    Where to stay

    Aman Tokyo - This was the first urban hotel by the ultra-luxurious Aman brand and became an icon of Tokyo hotels the day it opened in Marunouchi. Nearly every aspect of your stay can be tailored to your desires, and you may be tempted never to leave the facility given the quality of its restaurants, spa, and oversized rooms. Current pricing starts at over $2,000 per night, so perhaps making the most of the hotel's facilities isn't such a bad idea.

    Palace Hotel - A 5-star hotel bordering the Imperial Palace moat, it has a long-standing reputation for impeccable service and elegant facilities, as well as a beautiful night view of the city. About $500 to 800 per night.

    MUJI Hotel Ginza - is recently built hotel nestled between the boutiques and department stores of this famous shopping district. MUJI is a major clothing and home interior retail brand, so expect facilities and amenities inspired by their sleek, functional designs. Priced between $250 and $400 per night, which is reasonable for this area.

    "remm plus Ginza" - is part of the Hankyu, a large Japanese hotel chain. The remm brand is a more contemporary style of hotel positioned between cheap business hotels and mid-range holiday hotels. The Ginza location is close to the famous Kabuki-za theater and borders the Shinbashi area, famous for its cheap and delicious eats. Around $200 per night.


    2. Ueno - A working class neighborhood with a rich history

    Pros: Many things to explore in Ueno Park, well connected to other parts of the city, lots of apartment-style accommodations great for families and groups

    Cons: Some hotels can feel a little dated, lacks the sophistication of more modern areas of Tokyo

    A busy area around the Ueno Station

    One of the entrances to Ameya-Yokocho Market in Ueno. Photo: Nesnad, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Always-busy Ueno Chuo Dori Street. Photo: Wpcpey, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Ueno Park. Photo: Tomi Mäkitalo, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Ueno area is mainly known for Ueno Park, created as a cultural hub for city residents with a zoo, music hall, library, and some of Tokyo’s finest museums. It’s served by Ueno Station, a major station on the Yamanote Line, and several other trains and subway lines that make it convenient to access many places in the city.

    Ueno has an old-school vibe, with long-standing residential buildings interspersed with small family-run businesses and hole-in-the-wall restaurants. I frequently find myself here to check out exhibitions in the park’s museums, take a stroll around the vast grounds, and explore the side streets branching off from it.

    In my opinion, this area is great for people looking for a more well-rounded experience in Tokyo, beyond the neon lights and hyper-futuristic stereotypes.

    While there are many business hotels in Ueno catering to Japanese business travelers, recently, a number of chains have opened apartment-style family hotels around Ueno where a group of up to 6 adults can stay comfortably, with a full kitchen to make their own meals. The number of these types of hotels around Ueno makes it a popular neighborhood for families, and the down-to-earth quality of the neighborhood feels more authentically Tokyo than the more glitzy neighborhoods.

    Because of attractions like the park, the zoo, and the National Museum of Nature and Science, I strongly recommend the Ueno area to visitors traveling with younger children who need hands-on experiences and space to run around.

    During the Edo Period, when the Shogun ruled Japan, Ueno was the precinct for a large Buddhist temple complex. Although difficult to make out, Ueno Park is located on a hill formerly known as Mt. Ueno. By the mid-20th century, Ueno Park was Tokyo's modern cultural hub.

    Ueno Station, which opened adjacent to the park, brought many rural residents from northern Japan who settled in the neighborhoods around the park and created their own lively shopping and entertainment districts. During the US occupation of Japan, the area under the train tracks south of the station became known as Ameyoko, a place to buy black market goods from American soldiers.

    Much of Ueno has merely evolved from the old days of its history. Ameyoko still exists, but instead of selling black market goods, it is now an area packed with cheap places to eat and small shops dealing in an endless variety of discount wares.

    Hundreds of restaurants catering to Japan's new working class, the salaryman, fill the area around Ueno Station and Shinobazu, the neighborhood south of the park. While they tend to be busy during lunch hour and in the evenings when people get off work, pop in during off-peak hours and you’ll find great food at reasonable prices.

    When the weather is pleasant, locals and visitors flock to the park to enjoy a stroll or visit its cultural attractions. Many of the structures related to its temple history still exist in and around the park, including Kaneiji Temple, just beyond the park's northwest border, and the gorgeous Bentendo Temple in the middle of Shinobazu Pond.

    You might find Ueno Park on the list of places to visit during cherry blossom season, but I’ll buck the trend and advise you to avoid it during this time rather than deal with the mobs of locals and tourists alike trying to photograph the flowers here. Just a few minutes’ walk further, the Yanaka Cemetery, of all places, is a surprisingly lovely and peaceful place to enjoy cherry blossoms.

    Where to stay

    MIMARU - This is a chain with several locations around Ueno, including Okachimachi, Inaricho, and Ueno North. Rooms are apartment style, with full kitchens, and up to six adults can sleep in contemporary styled spaces. From around $400 per night.

    &Here Tokyo Ueno - Another hotel that offers apartment-style hotels, but for those traveling solo or as a couple, there are also standard-sized rooms in simple yet functional designs. Just south of Ueno Park's Shinobazu Pond. Around $150 to $400 per night.

    Sawanoya Ryokan - A rare Japanese-style inn (Ryokan) in Nezu, a district bordering Ueno. The gracious hosts here have been welcoming overseas tourists for decades, and the hospitality here shines through, even if the accommodations are nothing out of the ordinary. Still, you can enjoy one of their public baths with a view of a traditional Japanese garden at a bargain price! Around $50 per person per night.


    3. Shinjuku - The Tokyo that never sleeps 

    Pros: Extremely well connected by train and subway to the rest of Tokyo, fantastic nightlife, endless choices of restaurants

    Cons: Constant crowds can be overwhelming, Shinjuku Station is confusing to navigate, the Kabukicho area can be relatively unsafe after dark

    In the heart of Shinjuku’s entertainment district. Photo: Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Another shopping street in Shinjuku. Photo: Uploader, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped

    Skyscrapers in the Nishi-Shinjuku area. Photo: MaedaAkihiko, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped.

    The entrance to Kabukicho, Shinjuku’s entertainment and red light district. Photo: Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped

    The familiar Shinjuku skyline, with its twin towers of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, the iconic Park Hyatt Hotel (made famous by "Lost in Translation"), and the cocoon-inspired Mode Gakuen Tower, is a familiar image of Tokyo for most visitors. Below these 50+ story buildings, Shinjuku streets churn with the energy of the millions of people passing through Shinjuku Station and filling its shops, bars, and restaurants day and night.

    The district is a mix of commercial, retail, and residential apartments, many being tiny studios smaller than your walk-in closet back home. The streets are rarely empty and even in the early morning hours, you’ll find people who have missed their last train home wandering around or in a drunken sleep on a train station bench.

    Most people who choose to stay in Shinjuku enjoy its frenetic energy, variety of bars and restaurants, and endless shopping. Many of Japan's famous brands have flagship shops here, and the area is anchored by a half dozen major department stores. Be sure to head to the basement level of these "depato" for a sensory overload of food and dessert selections for a uniquely Japanese experience.

    In fact, only those who truly feed off the energy of the city can enjoy staying in Shinjuku for an extended period of time. Introverts like me and individuals with a hint of agoraphobia will find Shinjuku exhausting after being out in the crowds for just a day. But if you crave that energy both day and night, Shinjuku is your paradise.

    Hotels range from the big-brand 5-star hotels like the Hyatt Regency and Hilton, to newer mid-range hotels in the Kabukicho area. However, due to the area's popularity, hotel prices run on the high side, so expect to pay a bit more for the privilege of staying in the heart of Shinjuku.

    Shinjuku Station is the busiest train station in the world, with approximately 3 million passengers using the station daily. While it has convenient connections to just about anywhere you need to go, it can also be incredibly difficult to navigate, with mazes of underground passages and over 200 different exits.

    “Meet me at Shinjuku Station” should never be a phrase in your vocabulary if you don’t want to spend the day searching for the other person. Always assume it will take more time than necessary to make a transfer to another train if you have to pass through the station, and don’t hesitate to ask staff for help if you get lost; I’m sure local people have to ask for help sometimes too.

    For better or worse, you will find many of the sights of Tokyo that make their way into your social media feeds in Shinjuku: three-dimensional advertising screens with playful animated cats, the enormous head of Godzilla peering over the edge of a hotel, panoramic views of the urban sprawl from the 45th-floor observatories of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. These are all great fun for first-time visitors, but are certainly not authentic experiences that give you a sense of what its like to live in Tokyo.

    But there is also an enormous amount of history here, often hidden in plain sight. The elegant Hanazono Shrine pre-dates the rule of the Shogun, making it well over 400 years old. It served as the grounds for the Japanese counter-culture movement of artists and musicians who inhabited the famous Golden Gai district next to the shrine in the 1960s. Today, Golden Gai is a fascinating collection of nearly 300 tiny bars packed into a few narrow alleys, each with a unique style and clientele.

    Another historic alleyway, Omoide Yokocho, was a black market after WW2 (like Ameyoko in Ueno), but somehow survived decades of redevelopment to become a trove of tiny stalls selling skewers of grilled meat and vegetables. A stroll through the alley is an experience for the senses, and the aroma of freshly grilled foods alone might tempt you to squeeze into a tiny restaurant for a quick bite.

    Kabukicho is a somewhat notorious area north of the station, known for its nightlife and red light district. While it isn't exactly dangerous, some establishments use barkers to lure unsuspecting tourists inside, where they quickly accumulate a hefty (and often illegal) bill. There are also recorded warnings on the street about pickpockets and other petty crimes.

    Still, in general, if you stay alert to your surroundings, avoid walking alone late at night, and use common sense, Kabukicho is relatively safe. The city government, aware of the district's reputation and its negative effect on tourism, has cracked down hard on many businesses in the area and increased police presence. There is also a push to gentrify the area with more legitimate businesses, so you will find many new hotels around the district and the brand-new Tokyu Kabukicho Tower complex that opened in 2024.

    Where to stay

    BELLUSTAR TOKYO - Located on the 39th to 47th floors of the new Tokyu Kabukicho Tower building, this hotel offers incredible views (potentially of Mt. Fuji, depending on the room and the weather), top-notch facilities, and fantastic service.It’s one of the newest higher-end hotels in Shinjuku. $600 to 800 per night.

    Hotel Groove Shinjuku - If the Bellustar is out of your price range, you could save some money by staying a few floors below at Hotel Groove Shinjuku. It’s a significant downgrade in terms of room quality and facilities, but considering how nice the aforementioned hotel is, this one is still quite pleasant.

    TRUNK Yoyogi Park - Technically not in Shinjuku, this hotel is worth a mention for its unique proposition: located on the edge of Yoyogi Park between Shinjuku and Shibuya, this hotel feels like an urban oasis, with few indications that you are near the center of one of the busiest cities in the world. The neighborhood is also extremely chill, with many tiny boutique shops and cafes. From around $600 per night.

    Kimpton Shinjuku - While it may literally be located in the shadow of the famous Park Hyatt Tokyo, that doesn't mean the Kimpton doesn't stand out in the crowd. A New York-inspired decor, restaurant, and staff speaking impeccable English make this hotel feel like a home away from home, and you can ooh and aww over locals bringing their adorable pets for afternoon tea. From about $300 per night, this is in the mid-range of Shinjuku hotels.


    4. Roppongi - Tokyo's original party town has grown up

    Pros: Modern and upscale neighborhood, international vibe due to the many embassies located here, vibrant night life

    Cons: Not as connected to the rest of the city as other areas (but not inconvenient either), a little hilly so it can be tiring to walk around, accommodations on the expensive side

    High-rise building in Roppongi. Photo: Syced, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

    A view over Roppongi Hills the iconic Mori Tower. Photo: A16504601 at Japanese Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped

    Keyakizaka street lit up. Photo: Dick Thomas Johnson, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original

    The National Art Center in Roppongi. Photo: Kakidai, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped

    Roppongi is located in a hilly area of Tokyo near the iconic Tokyo Tower. Although it isn’t along the main Yamanote Line, it is well served by several subway lines, including the Oedo Line, a sort of underground version of the Yamanote Line that makes a larger circle around the city.

    But be warned: Roppongi Station is located deep in the bowels of the earth, and it can take more than five minutes to reach the subway platform from some street entrances, even using the long escalators.

    When it comes to the neighborhood’s character, Roppongi is a mix of commercial and residential, with the wealthiest residents inhabiting the upper floors of modern skyscraper condominiums built atop huge shopping malls. These are very common in the area.

    But quieter neighborhoods with single family homes and small apartment complexes also exist here, so Roppongi doesn’t feel as dense as Shinjuku, for example. It’s also a bit classier than Shinjuku, so if you enjoy a more refined nightlife and luxurious hotels, this is definitely the place to be.

    The atmosphere of Roppongi can be eclectic, with everything from elegant upscale shopping malls, expansive outdoor spaces for relaxing, to narrow streets lined with lively bars and restaurants whose patrons spill into the streets after dark. The presence of many embassies in the area means the crowds are often very cosmopolitan, as is the selection of food and drink.

    This is an interesting and just generally pleasant area, and I’ll often bring visiting friends here for a nice evening of dinner and drinks, or to visit one of the many top-notch museums and galleries in the neighborhood. If you’re after fine dining, good shopping, nice hotels, and a lot of culture, you will almost certainly love Roppongi.

    Historically, the neighborhood gained prominence as Tokyo's party town for the military forces, first to the Imperial Japanese Army in 1890 and later to the American military forces during the occupation of Japan after WW2. Even after the Americans left, bars and discos remained popular night spots for locals and foreigners alike.

    Then, in the latter part of the 20th century, it was known for overly aggressive foreign barkers hired to lure customers into dodgy establishments. Things changed in the early 21st century when the first of many high-rise complexes were built in Roppongi - Izumi Garden Tower and Roppongi Hills -.

    In the past two decades, both its skyline and the demographic of its patrons has grown up a lot; Roppongi is now seen as an up-scale nightlife district with classy rooftop bars and exclusive restaurants. The nightlife is still alive and well, but tempered by the more refined clientele the area attracts.

    A bit unexpectedly, Roppongi has also become a power spot for Japan's art scene. This came about when three of the area's leading art museums partnered to promote the diverse art community that has developed here. The Suntory Museum of Art, Mori Art Museum, and National Art Center are the corners of the triangle, but they actively promote other museums and galleries around Roppongi by producing a bilingual Japanese-English Art Triangle Map.

    There is also a discount for admission to each venue by showing an entrance ticket stub from one of the other two venues when you purchase. But honestly, art is everywhere in Roppongi, so you’ll find free art on display in and around shopping facilities and small galleries without needing to spend a yen.

    Because of its proximity to business and political districts, many 4 and 5 star hotels have sprung up around Roppongi and its neighboring districts of Azabu and Toranomon. Prices for accommodations tend to be higher in this area, but your money buys you rooms with a bit more luxury, space, or great city views.

    Where to stay

    The Tokyo EDITION, Toranomon - This very upscale hotel. caters to an affluent younger crowd, the type that come to Roppongi to party. The vibe here feels more laid back and the service is a little more restrained, but the luxury remains strictly intact. From $800 per night.

    Hotel Toranomon Hills - Part of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, this lovely property features sleek Danish-designed interiors, spacious common areas for those who need to get a little work done, and a comprehensive breakfast buffet. This is a new hotel sitting atop the Toranomon Hills subway station. From $400 per night.

    The Lively - A boutique-style hotel in Azabujuban - a slightly more classy neighborhood bordering Roppongi -, the decor here features dark woods and leather, creating an elegant, woodsy atmosphere. Breakfast is not included in your stay, but Azabujuban has several excellent bakeries, so exploring the neighborhood is part of the appeal of staying here. From $250 per night.


    5. Shinagawa - not just a train station anymore

    Pros: Quiet and safe, many reasonably priced hotels, close to Haneda International Airport, Shinagawa Station is a Shinkansen bullet train stop on the way to Kyoto and Osaka

    Cons: Not much to do at night, a bit too far from major attractions for some people’s liking

    The Osaki area of Shinagawa along the Meguro River. Photo: Jonas Neergaard-Nielsen from Tokyo, Japan, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Tennozu Isle development in Shinagawa along the waterfront. Photo: Doricono, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Looking out at the island of Odaiba from the Rainbow Bridge. Photo: Nesnad, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Shinagawa is located in the southern part of central Tokyo along the Tokyo Bay, with its main station - Shinagawa Station - being one of the closest stations on the Yamanote Line to Haneda International Airport. This is also the station where you’ll likely want to catch the train to other popular destinations throughout Japan, especially to places in the south like Kyoto and Osaka.

    And while it’s generally well-connected by train to the rest of Tokyo, it is little remote from other attractions, so its distance from the center of the city is definitely something you should be aware of if you choose to stay here.

    I think of Shinagawa as a “functional” local area, and as it doesn’t have any major sights or attractions you probably won’t see it frequently recommended as somewhere for visitors to stay. That’s part of the (potential) appeal though: this is a normal area where people live, work, and go about their daily lives. I’ll readily admit that it doesn’t offer up the culture, nightlife, excitement, or glitzy image of Tokyo that you’ll find in other, more popular neighborhoods, but not everyone is looking for that.

    The neighborhood has been a popular area since ancient times for travelers to stay in when arriving into or departing from Tokyo (it lay along the Tokaido road connecting Kyoto to what is now Tokyo), but it existed as little more than a transit point for most of that time. And while it did eventually develop, the majority of its early 20th century commerce was industrial or shipping-related, which were not exactly attractions that most visitors wanted to see.

    But that’s not the case anymore! As the heart of Tokyo continues to expand outward, Shinagawa has evolved into an interesting neighborhood and the local government has developed it really thoughtfully, capitalizing on the ample open space to stage lots of art exhibitions and public performances.

    They’ve also redeveloped the artificial islands in Tokyo Bay, just to the neighborhood’s east. These were originally constructed as naval defenses for the city during the Edo Period, but they’re now home to towering residential buildings, sprawling shopping and entertainment facilities, and unique museums. Many of them offer incredible views over Tokyo Bay.

    While there’s a lot to see and do here, I mostly come out this way to explore the always-changing art exhibits, which often focus on contemporary and interactive art. I also like making trips over to Odaiba, one of the artificial islands on the other side of the Rainbow Bridge, as it’s a fun place to spend the day shopping, dining, and enjoying the skyline of Tokyo at dusk.

    Speaking of the Rainbow Bridge, if you enjoy walking like I do, you should definitely cross the bridge on foot as it’s a unique way to enjoy views of the bridge and city.

    For me, a big part of Shinagawa's charm is how it embraces both its recent and ancient history. In most of Tokyo, old buildings are constantly being torn down to make way for new ones, but Shinagawa has taken a different approach: rather than demolishing everything, new businesses and attractions have reclaimed the now-unused industrial spaces like warehouses, repurposing them into enormous art galleries and exhibition spaces. This gives the area a pretty unique vibe, and it’s one that I quite like.

    And due to its ancient history as a stop between the old capital of Kyoto and the new capital of Edo (Tokyo), the neighborhood also contains several of Tokyo's most important temples and shrines. It’s a lot of fun to spend a day here making your way between modern art exhibits and ancient mounments.

    I should also point out that Shinagawa feels a bit more relaxed than areas closer to the heart of the city, and people who might not be used to Tokyo’s frenetic pace may find Shinagawa a more comfortable area to stay in than Marunouchi or Roppongi, for example. It is also considered one of Tokyo's safest neighborhoods, so you can enjoy late night strolls along the waterfront to see the colorful lights of the Rainbow Bridge without much worry.

    Being a transportation hub, there are a large variety of accommodations in the area ranging from basic to luxurious, so finding a hotel that suits you should not be a problem here. If there is any downside to staying in Shinagawa, it’s that it might be a little too remote for some people's liking, adding an extra 10-15 minutes to get to locations in central Tokyo by train.

    Where to stay

    The Prince Hotels - This excellent-value chain has three similar and perfectly solid properties around Shinagawa Station. All of them are many decades old but renovated within reasonable recency. You'll likely find nothing outstanding about them, nor anything you'll hate about them, and their prices are very attractive for central Tokyo hotels. From $150 per night.

    • Grand Prince Hotel Takanawa

    • Grand Prince Hotel New Takanawa (yes, very confusing, I know)

    • Shinagawa Prince Hotel

    Intercontinental - The Strings Tokyo - This is part of IHG's high-end brand and one of the most luxurious offerings around Shinagawa Station. Tokyo Bay or Tokyo Tower-facing rooms are the best with their breathtaking views, but the station side rooms can be noisy with trains running all but the wee hours of the night. For this much luxury, the price is right, at around $450 per night.

    Hilton Tokyo Odaiba - Straying out of Shinagawa and over to Odaiba Island, Hilton Tokyo Odaiba has beautiful views of Tokyo Bay and is in an area surrounded by huge shopping malls, spacious parks, and interesting museums. Due to its slightly inconvenient location, you can enjoy a 5-star hotel at 3.5-star prices. From $200 per night.


    6. Asakusa - The Tokyo neighborhood on every traveler's itinerary

    Pros: Reasonably priced accommodations, close to many attractions, quiet at night

    Cons: Full of tourists most of the time, has a fair deal of tourist traps you’ll want to avoid

    An aerial view over Asakausa and Nakamise-dori leading up to Senso-ji temple. Photo: DXR, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    The Asakusa branch of the famous Matsuya department store. Photo: Nesnad, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped

    The tourist shops of Nakamise-dori leading up to Senso-ji. Photo: Kakidai, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Low-rise buildings and shoppers on Denboin street in Asakusa. Photo: DXR, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Sumida Park along the Sumida River in Asakusa. Photo: Arashiyama, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Last on my top six list of places to stay in Tokyo is Asakusa. The inclusion of this neighborhood will hardly surprise anyone who has done even a few minute's worth of research about Tokyo; nearly every visitor to the city will spend at least a few hours here. And they should, as it is home to Tokyo's largest and most important temple complexes, like Sensoji, thousands of tiny shops and restaurants, and is arguably the best neighborhood from which to view the majestic Tokyo Skytree Tower across the Sumida River.

    In the northeastern portion of central Tokyo - a few subway stops east of the neighborhood of Ueno -, Asakusa is one of Tokyo’s ancient Shitamachi neighborhoods. Unlike newer parts of Tokyo where skyscrapers abound, the architecture here is predominantly low- to mid-rise, with a mixture of old wooden houses, concrete apartment blocks, and modest modern structures.

    Many of the streets here are fairly narrow, which combined with the smaller scale buildings contributes to a more intimate feel that is increasingly rare in modern Tokyo.

    Most people stay in Asakusa because of its touristic sights and/or the proliferation of small but affordable accommodations (although recent prices have been rising steadily due to the demand). Much like Ueno, the vibe in Asakusa is more down-to-earth and I think it gives you a better perspective on everyday life in Tokyo.

    A fairly residential area with a primarily older resident population, nighttime tends to be quiet here, with most shops closing around dusk and restaurants shutting up shop well before midnight.

    The area around the tourist zones are especially residential, with sprawling semi-grids of low-rise buildings. The more traditional feel of the neighborhood makes it Tokyo’s most popular place to dress in a rental kimono and stroll the streets, in a place where wearing a kimono doesn’t feel out of place. Even I have been known to don one of my own kimonos and take a stroll around the neighborhood, knowing nobody would bat an eye at my anachronistic attire.

    One of Tokyo's most important districts for 400 years, there is a lot of history hidden beneath the veil of tourist traps and pretense.

    Personally, I avoided the area for years until I realized that once you can distinguish which businesses cater only to tourists, there are an incredible number of hidden gems here, like a geta (Japanese wooden clog) shop run by the 14th generation of geta makers of his family and a kimono shop that deals in items catering to Kabuki theatre actors. This is quite different from the stalls along the Nakamise shopping street selling Tokyo refrigerator magnets and Japanese katana sword umbrellas.

    And that’s part of the beauty of Asakusa - the longer you wander its fascinating streets, the more you begin to uncover and the more authentic your time here becomes. But there is also a temptation to stray out of the neighborhood into neighboring Kappabashi, the "Kitchen Town" district with shops selling Japanese cooking knives, ceramic dishware, and even the plastic food replicas seen in restaurant windows.

    Or you could make your way to the nearby pier on the Sumida River to take a boat cruise down the river to Hamarikyu Gardens or Odaiba Island. Or (yes, more options elsewhere!) just a short walk will take you over to the 634-meter tall Tokyo Skytree Tower and the enormous Solamachi shopping mall at its base. There’s lots to see in the area!

    Asakusa is definitely a tourist area though, and there are precious few moments when you will be allowed to forget that. However, if you wait around until after 6:00pm when most of the shops have closed and the grounds of the normally-crowded Sensoji Temple become nearly empty, the atmosphere shifts enormously, with the crowds all but disappearing. This is the perfect time for photographing the illuminated red temple, its five-story pagoda, and the modern steel Skytree rising behind it.

    As I mentioned above, there are a wide range of hotels, including lots of hostels, which were the dominant type of accommodation here before its tourism boom. And since this isn’t the kind of area with towering skyscrapers and modern buildings, there are many smaller hotels in the middle of the price range.

    Due to its long history, you can also find traditional style ryokan inn here, some run by the same families who owned them centuries ago.

    When it comes to transportation, there are only a handful of trains and subways that serve the area, but the ones that do are connected to major stations and both Narita and Haneda airports.

    Where to stay

    Cyashitsu Ryokan - Cyashitsi (pronounced Cha-shi-tsu) is a modern but traditional Japanese-style inn based on the concept of Japanese tea ceremony. Many design elements are derived from tea ceremony elements, and the service also mimics the hospitality the tea ceremony host bestows on their guests. An outdoor rooftop bath is available for private reservations. From $200 per person per night.

    Gate Hotel Kaminarimon - A charming mid-range hotel conveniently located across the street from Sensoji's landmark Kaminarimon Gate - the entrance to the Nakamise shopping street. The style is clean and contemporary, with quality amenities that may surprise you. About $150 per night.

    OMO3 Asakusa - OMO3 hails from the urban-oriented portfolio of the renowned Hoshino Resorts, whose numbers scale up from 1 to 7, with 3 representing a basic, no-frills hotel at a budget price. Nonetheless, the Hoshino Resorts name promises a good quality product, even if the standard rooms are a bit small and the dining selection is limited. The latter issue is easily overlooked with an enormous selection of restaurants within walking distance of the hotel. Around $150 per night.


    Other neighborhoods to consider

    Although these are the six main areas I recommend visitors to stay in Tokyo, there are a few other areas worth mentioning.

    Ikebukuro

    Ikebukuro is another station on the Yamanote Line that is convenient to the city center and has a lot of good shopping and restaurants. However, Ikebukuro tends to be rougher than other parts of the city, with a large red-light district, so it may not be best for families or first-time visitors.

    Edogawa area

    If your itinerary includes Tokyo Disneyland or Tokyo Disneysea, staying in the Edogawa area, particularly around Urayasu, is convenient for park access. Prices for hotels in this area also tend to be lower than central Tokyo, but keep in mind there is not much to do here other than go to Tokyo Disney Resort, and it is a bit far from the central city.

    Yokohama

    Finally, if you're a real rebel, consider staying in a place entirely outside Tokyo city limits: Yokohama. One of Japan's most underrated cities, Yokohama has plenty of great attractions of its own, from its futuristic Minato Mirai waterfront area to its huge Chinatown district.

    It is also only about 30 minutes from central Tokyo by express trains (and even faster by Shinkansen, although I don't necessarily recommend that method). Yokohama's hotels are significantly less expensive than central Tokyo, so you can have a much more comfortable stay for the same amount of money.


    Todd Fong

    Todd Fong is an American writer and photographer living in Japan since 2014. He travels extensively in Japan and has contributed to and edited multiple Japan-related guides and books for major travel publishers. He is also the former Editor-in-Chief of Voyapon.com, where he wrote articles about travel off-the-beaten-path up and down Japan

    https://toddfong.com/
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