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I’ve been a regular visitor to Prague - just four hours by train from my adopted hometown of Berlin - for over twenty years. It’s like a second home for me, and I’ve written many print and online guides on the city, as well as provided regular tips to friends and family for their visits.

Although not a vast city by European standards, Prague is a little bigger and more varied than some visitors tend to think - especially if you’re willing to explore beyond the central areas.

The Old Town, Lesser Town and New Town make up the central areas. They contain the majority of the city’s main sights - Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, Prague Castle, for example - and are a good base for first-time visitors, as long as you don’t mind all the other tourists.

If you’re looking for something quieter or more local, there are several options either close or well-connected to the center that have more local flavour and plenty of things to see and do, albeit more low-key. Overall, these parts of the city are accessible on foot and also have very good and affordable transport connections too.

I’ve outlined my favorite neighborhoods in more detail below to help you personalize your visit and get the most from it based on your needs.

Table of Contents

Overview of Prague’s layout

*The more urban parts of Prague outlined in grey, and the city center highlighted in red*

Before we dive into the neighborhoods, I want to give a quick overview of the layout of the city so that you can get your bearings. Unlike with some other European capitals, Prague doesn’t have any physical boundaries that clearly delineate its borders, and there isn’t a ring road via which you can easily identify the “inner” and “outer” parts of the city.

Rather, Prague sort of just expands out in all directions, with much of it becoming fairly suburban as you move away from the center. So, rather than use the official boundaries, I’ve drawn up the map above, which more or less runs along a couple of major roads and to some degree encloses what you could think of as the most urban parts of the city. The section highlighted in red is the city center, which is the area that will be of most interest to you as a visitor.

Officially, Prague is organized into 22 official districts, conveniently designated by numbers, but since many of them are far from the center and/or don’t offer much for tourists, we can ignore them and instead focus only on the most central ones.

And because the districts are relatively sizable, lots of them are broken down into neighborhoods that have their own names and distinct characteristics. Throughout this guide, I’ll mostly talk about the individual neighborhoods rather than the districts, because this will provide you a better understanding of where specifically to stay within them. Locals typically use the neighborhood names rather than the districts too, so it’s just the most practical way to talk about them.

The city center (again, red on the map above), which is the geographic, historical, and figurative heart of the city, is covered by the Prague 1 district and is made up of two historic neighborhoods: Staré Město - the Old Town -, and Malá Strana - the Lesser Town -. They’re situated on opposite banks of the Vltava river and are connected by several bridges, the most famous being historic Charles Bridge.

Both these neighborhoods are full of rich architecture, a wide range of hotels, lots of gastro and culture options, and most of the main tourist sights.

The next innermost district, Prague 2, border the Old Town to the east and south, and covers the neighborhoods of Nové Město (New Town) and Vinohyrady. Nové Město is the more central of the two, and despite its name, dates back to the fourteenth century, and also has a lot of tourist sights and hotels. Vinohrady is one of the most popular and pleasant local areas outside of the main tourist zone.

The rest of the city spans out from here in all directions. These more outer areas developed much later and have more of a nineteenth-century feel in terms of residential tenement housing, often mixed in with some communist throwbacks and postmodern elements, and although more “modern” (by Prague standards), also have plenty of pleasant squares and wide boulevards.

Among these less central areas, those of most interest to visitors are usually the center-adjacent neighborhoods that have developed a mix of local and expat flair, which, along with Vinohrady, would include Žižkov and Holešovice.

Moving still farther away, districts such as Smíchov and Karlín are quieter, more local and residential options. These areas become a little more suburban, and are less walkable and more car centric.

Quick summary of my 6 recommended neighborhoods

As I mentioned above, the two neighborhoods of the Prague 1 District - Staré Město and Malá Strana are your best options if this is your first visit and you don’t mind toughing it out with other tourists. Most of the main sights are reachable on foot within these areas, and there’s a wide choice of hotels as well as good dining, drinking, and cultural options.

The Nové Město (New Town) is also a good option if you want to be central, but just know that it will involve a little more walking or some public transport to get around. It’s a bit less charming than Prague 1 - a little more commercial and a bit more workaday - but it does also have some great hotels and sights of its own.

If you’re after more local flavor and don’t mind being a little removed from the center, consider any of the following three bases:

Pretty Vinohrady, adjacent to the New Town
The slightly rougher but still charming Žižkov, which is a little cheaper but also further away
Holešovice, which has a distinctive post-industrial character and is dotted with indie boutiques, local art, and cool gastro spaces.

A bit of good news for anyone who chooses to stay in any of these less central neighborhoods is that Prague has an excellent public transit system, which comprises buses, trams and a metro, and will get you to most places within 20-40 minutes no matter where you stay in these districts.

Here’s a quick overview of each of the 6 neighborhoods that I’d suggest considering:

1. Staré Město (Prague 1)

Prague’s medieval Old City is the place to stay if you want to be in the thick of it all and don’t mind lots of tourists. A good base for first-time travelers, it’s the place most people have in mind when they think of ‘fairytale Prague’—an impressive mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture set along beautiful squares and winding cobblestone streets.

The lion’s share of Prague’s primary attractions are also here, including Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) and the associated Astronomical Clock; the Jewish Quarter (Josefov) and Prague Jewish Museum; the Powder Tower and the Art Nouveau Municipal House.

2. Malá Strana (Prague 1)

Connected to Staré Město by the iconic Charles Bridge, Malá Strana might translate into English as “Lesser Town” but it’s just as bustling as the Old Town. It’s an equally great base for first-time visitors since it’s walking distance to pretty much everything, but it does have more hills to navigate as well as a lot of tourists.

Among its local sights are Prague Castle, lovely Petřín Hill, the Kafka Museum, pretty Kampa Park and Kampa Museum, and plenty of charming churches and atmospheric winding lanes to explore.

3. Nové Město (Prague 2)

Nové Město, or New Town, is also a good base for those seeking to explore the city’s main central sights. It has a less traditional, more commercial feel, epitomised by bustling Wenceslas Square, so is especially good if you’re keen on shopping and being slightly away from the crowds of Prague 1 (see above).

As well as the National Museum, the district is home to the National Theatre and Gehry’s Dancing House and a smattering of smaller galleries and museums such as the Prague City Museum, the Museum of Communism, and the National Film Museum. Another highlight is the Saturday Farmers’ Market down on the Náplavka river promenade.

4. Vinohrady (Prague 2)

This district’s name comes from the many vineyards that used to cover its hills; while some remain, it’s better known these days for its chic wine bars alongside lots of great microbreweries, restaurants and other cool spots, making it great for families, foodies and those who prefer a more residential vibe.

Characterized by large boulevards lined with renovated tenements and laid-back squares such as Náměstí Míru, the vibe here is gentrified and the population a mix of locals and expats. Parks such as Riegrovy sady also make it a great place to escape the busyness of the adjacent New Town.

5. Žižkov (Prague 3)

Once a not-much-visited, working-class part of town, Žižkov is mostly famous as the home of the city’s iconic TV Tower - especially after David Černý gave it some additional quirky appeal by adding ten sculptures of climbing babies.

Similar to Vinohrady, but more graffiti-daubed and a little rougher, the area has recently become popular with younger people seeking cheaper rents, and there’s been a corresponding burst of trendy restaurants, shops, and art spaces to match the abundance of long-standing local pubs. Žižkov is a great base for those who are okay being a little away from the center and want a more local and youthful atmosphere.

6. Holešovice (Prague 7)

This former meatpacking district still has a post-industrial feel to it, but the signs of growing gentrification can be spotted throughout in the shape of contemporary galleries, cool bars, breakfast spots, and clubs.

As well as being good for hipsters, foodies, and art-lovers, the area is family-friendly too, thanks to two large parks in the vicinity - Stromovka and Letná, the latter boasting superb views over the Vltava river and the Old Town. The wider district (Prague 7) is also home to the National Technical Museum and the Výstaviště exhibition grounds.

1. Staré Město

Pros: Most central area of the city with many major sights; gorgeous architecture; super walkable and heavily pedestrianized; huge number of restaurants, bars, and cafes;

Cons: TONS of tourists; always very busy, especially around Old Town Square and the main sights; lots of tourist traps; higher prices for everything

*Iconic Old Town Square in central Prague. Photo:* *A.Savin, FAL, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Old Town Square at night. Photo:* *Diliff*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Prague’s Old Town - Staré Město - is the city’s geographic center and figurative heart, and for first-time visitors, being able to step out into a world of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture that’s criss-crossed by winding cobblestone streets lined with beautifully-restored buildings and historic monuments, is a dream come true. That sounds like a cliché, but it really isn’t: this is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities and the center of Prague is simply as lovely as it gets.

Almost all the big sights and attractions are right here in the Old Town (or right next door), so this is by far the most convenient place to stay for anyone who wants to pack in a lot of efficient sightseeing. If you choose a hotel here, you’ll be able to walk out the door and get almost anywhere you want to go in just a couple of minutes, all on your own two feet. And when you want to head out further away, the neighborhood is circled by tram and bus lines, and has around 4 metro stops within it - Staroměstská, Mustek, Naměstí Republiky, and Národní trída -.

Of course, the draws of the neighborhood - central location, access to sights, beautiful architecture, pedestrianized streets, etc. - are no secret, so this is far and away the most popular area for visitors to stay.

The tourist crowds can be genuinely intense, especially during busy times of year (summer most of all), and lots of businesses and restaurants cater to visitors rather than locals. A fair deal of them are long-standing traditional establishments of very high quality, but many are overpriced tourist traps, so you’ll need to do your research and plan out where you want to eat, drink, and shop.

Having said that, it’s not as if this is exclusively a touristic area. Plenty of locals work here, a decent number still live in the area (a mix of Czechs and other Eastern European communities, with a big Slovak population), and lots of people who live elsewhere in the city still come in regularly to eat, drink, and hang out. You’ll see plenty of locals when here, but even so, I think it’s fair to say that tourism is the predominant theme/atmosphere of the narea.

One other important thing to note is that there are a lot of clubs and bars in the Old Town, and parts of it are major nightlife hubs, so if you’re looking for quiet evenings you’ll need to be careful to choose somewhere away from those areas. Although Prague’s reputation for hordes of Brits on wild, roving bachelor parties is unwarranted, there certainly is some truth to it.

The beating heart of the district is Old Town Square, which is a must-see even if it is always packed with people, especially in front of the fifteenth-century Astronomical Clock, with its hourly parade of mechanically-operated apostles. Not everyone realizes that you can pay to climb the tower and see behind the clock, as well as get great views of the square, so that’s very much something I recommend you do.

You won’t be able to miss the statue of Jan Hus, who was burned at the stake for being a religious reformer, nor the distinctive spires of the Gothic Church of Our Lady Before Tyn just behind it. I’d also suggest popping into the Baroque St. Nicholas Church at the eastern edge of the square, which hosts regular classical concerts. Close by you can find a Kafka plaque on one of the several houses he lived in during his short life. To the north-east of the square is the House of the Black Madonna, a fine example of cubist architecture.

When it comes to dining and accommodation, there are a number of hotels and restaurants right on the square, and while the hotels are lovely, the restaurants tend to be overpriced and not the best in terms of service or quality. I much prefer to join the mix of tourists and locals as they mingle on the streets that radiate out from the square.

To the east are a few other big sights: the historic Powder Tower, the stunning Municipal House, a flamboyant Art Nouveau building which hosts restaurants, concert and exhibition halls, plus Náměstí Republiky (Republic Square), which is also busy but has a convenient metro for those who like to be close to public transport.

West of Old Town Square, heading towards the Vlatva River, lies Josefov, the historical Jewish quarter. The old ghetto, it was mostly cleared in a nineteenth-century overhaul, so you’ll now find lots of handsome Art Nouveau boulevards, none more impressive than Pařížská (named after the city - Paris - that the planners of the time most wanted to emulate), lined with a host of high-end stores.

All together, the Jewish Quarter is a very pleasant and peaceful area, quite popular with Prague’s wealthier residents, and not too busy or loud at night. If you’re looking to stay in the Old Town but away from the touristy restaurants and big crowds, this is always a great choice.

While there, be sure to check out the Jewish Museum, which is a sprawling complex whose “portfolio” includes the museum itself along with several historic synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery - Europe’s oldest surviving Jewish graveyard -. It’s very much worth visiting and exploring.

Where to stay

Residence Agnes - this four-star townhouse is a lovely and unpretentious place to stay, and great value for money considering the central location. It’s low on facilities though, with just 21 rooms and a breakfast area. Service is excellent. €90-180

Hotel Josef - set in the Jewish Quarter, this was one of the first boutiques to open in the city and still has great service, cool rooms and an intimate feel. The breakfast is especially good too. €120-210

Hilton Prague Old Town - located close to Republic Square, this hotel has been given a recent overhaul that makes it much more contemporary. It’s a more affordable option while still offering a selection of dining areas and a pool. €130-270

The Emblem - a cute boutique on a street that’s close to Old Town Square yet surprisingly quiet. There are only 59 rooms but it’s unapologetically hip with lots of contemporary artworks, stylish furnishings and a rooftop spa with a private hot tub. €150-300

Four Seasons - probably the finest five-star in the city, this classic hotel has sumptuous rooms, polished service and great in-house amenities such as an Italian restaurant and bar, plus a spa with a pool. €250-500

2. Malá Strana

Pros: Extremely central with a host of big sights, pleasantly walkable, beautiful area, lots of bars and restaurants, right beside the river

Cons: Pretty much the same as Staré Město: lots of tourists, big crowds in areas, accommodation can be expensive, some tourist traps. Also has some quite steep hills

*Looing over the Charles Bridge and Mala Strana from the Old Town. Photo:* *Peter K Burian*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*The lower part of Malostranske Namesti (Lower Town Square). Photo:* *Maksym Kozlenko*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Located on the opposite side of the Vltava River from Staré Město, the Malá Stana, or “Lesser Town”, has a similarly elegant spread of architecture and atmosphere to its Old Town counterpart, albeit a little quieter and and more low-key - for the most part -.

This is an ideal area to stay in if you’re looking to be in the middle of it all, with plenty of big sights and lots of tourist infrastructure, but don’t want to be right in the The Old Town. I think it’s important to note that the neighborhood is characterized by hills that rise gently up from the river though, so if walking uphill is not your thing you should either choose another area, make sure your hotel is accessible by tram or bus (some of them are), or choose an accommodation very close to the river.

Although this is a heavily touristic area and lots of the people you’ll see wandering around will be fellow tourists, plenty of people still live here, and as with the Old Town, the resident population is generally made up of wealthier Czechs who can afford the higher rents, sprinkled with a mix of longer-term immigrants such as Roma and Vietnamese.

The area directly around Charles Bridge is the most “bustling” (crazy overcrowded), with lots of typical tourist shops along the road that leads up to the equally busy main square, Malostranske Namesti, where trams rattle by all day and night. As with Old Town Square, the area gets immediately quieter as you head down the roads leading off from the square, but even so, anyone who doesn’t like crowds should probably look elsewhere in the neighborhood.

Directly south of Charles Bridge is the scenic and tranquil Kampa Island, a peaceful park that also hosts a very decent contemporary art museum. Nearby is the Lennon Wall, a popular if slightly tacky makeshift memorial for the assassinated Beatle, covered with graffiti, political messages and song lyrics. To the north of the bridge is the Kafka Museum.

The area around Kampa Island (just to its west across the Čertovka canal) is a bit quieter than the heart of the neighborhood to the north, so this is where I’d recommend if you want to be close to all the action but not right in the middle of it. Just be aware that lots of people still visit this area for the museums and Kampa island, so you won’t be entirely escaping from other tourists.

Of course, the biggest sight in Malá Strana is Prague Castle, which can be reached by one of several streets that lead upwards from the river, most of them lined with elegant government buildings, upscale residences and hotels, and the usual array of pubs, restaurants, and shops. It’s touristy, but with good reason - the area is beautiful and strolling there, even with the crowds, is simply wonderful.

The castle itself is a rather large complex and it can take some time to wander around in full. Many of its buildings aren’t publicly accessible though, so I tend to see what’s on display at the Lobkowicz Palace Museum, pop into the dramatic St. Vitus cathedral, and go for a walk along the Golden Lane, the row of small, colorful houses once inhabited by alchemists. They now house little boutiques and crafts shops, and while it’s nice to wander around and browse, the prices are super inflated, so I wouldn’t recommend buying anything.

Once up here, you should absolutely stroll along the scenic streets around the castle, some of which are pleasantly relaxed and residential. I’d also suggest heading over to the sprawling (and quite steep) Petřín Hill, home to the Petřín Tower. If you don’t want to walk up the hill, you can take the funicular up from the base, which is always very popular with kids.

Where to stay

House Of The Big Boot - this family-run bed and breakfast is an affordable anomaly in Prague. A blast from the past in terms of the charmingly old-fashioned decor, it has simple but cosy rooms and a communal lounge and breakfast room. €80-150

Vintage Design Hotel Sax - a unique design hotel with a vintage aesthetic through all the public areas and rooms. Service is unpretentious and friendly and the location is good for Prague Castle. €70-€170

Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa Prague - one for the romantics, this sumptuous five-star occupies an ensemble of historic houses and is decorated head-to-toe in Renaissance-esque reds and golds. There’s an upscale Italian restaurant and a very nice Asian-themed spa. €140-270

Augustine - one of the city’s most impressive hotels, this former monastery (there are still monks living on-site) blends history and modernist design. Facilities include the showpiece Refectory Bar, a courtyard restaurant with a peaceful summer terrace, and a comprehensive spa. €170-340

3. Nové Město

Pros: Central but more diverse; less touristy; great restaurants, bars and nightlife; decent public transport, smaller museums and galleries; good shopping options

Cons: Can still get crowded, has a more generic vibe in places, walking distances to the center are a little longer, too “commercial” for some people

*Wenceslas Square, seen from the National Museum. Photo:* VitVit, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

*The riverfront and National Theater in Nove Mesto. Photo:* *VitVit*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

While it’s hardly ‘new’, having been established by Charles IV in 1348, the New Town - Nové Město - is a sprawling neighborhood that can feel a little more brashly commercial and ‘workaday’ compared to neighboring Old Town. Even so, it offers quite a lot in terms of things to see and do, and there are plenty of pleasant, quiet streets and areas set slightly away from the hustle and bustle.

There are also tons of parks in the neighborhood, especially the southern portion, so it’s always a great choice for anyone traveling with kids.

The neighborhood runs all along the southern and eastern borders of the Old Town and expands out to the east and south from there, and much of it is within easy walking distance of many of the Old Town sights, making it a great base if you want to be close to the center but not quite swamped by it. As I mentioned above, there are also a lot of places of touristic interest within the neighborhood, so even if you don’t stay here, you’ll certainly wind up in the area for some sightseeing.

It’s also incredibly well-served by public transportation, with tram and bus lines all over it, and 7 metro stops either in or on the border of the neighborhood. When you can’t or don’t want to walk somewhere, you’ll always be be able to get there quickly and easily via public transit.

There are lots of great restaurants, bars, and clubs here too, and most of them cater more to locals than tourists, which is a pleasant feature when compared to the more touristy Old Town. When walking around, you’ll see a lot of younger, trendy folks, as this has long been a popular area for a hip, There’s a larger demographic of Eastern Europeans as well, which gives it a bit of a diverse makeup.

The central point in the neighborhood is Wenceslas Square (Václavské Náměstí), a key historic location during the fall of Communism that today hosts a mix of commercial shops, nightclubs, and some glamorous Art Nouveau buildings. At the top sits the square’s cultural pride and joy, the National Museum, which has some great exhibition rooms to explore.

The side streets off the square are generally more local, quieter, and more appealing for anyone who wants to avoid the crowds and chaos of the busier principal avenues. These side streets host a good range of hotels, shops, restaurants, and smaller museums like the Mucha Museum, the National Film Museum, and the Museum of Communism.

Be sure to also check out Národní Avenue, which forms one of the borders between the New Town and Old Town, and is one of Prague’s principal thoroughfares. Home to throwback venues such as Café Louvre and Cafe Slavia, as well as the eye-catching National Theatre and some stark communist relics, it’s not to be missed. The hotels off this stretch of Národní Avenue (in the northwestern side of the neighborhood) tend to also be a bit more low-key and quiet, and are maybe better choices for families.

In the southwest of the neighborhood, you’ll find another major medieval square, Karlovo náměstí (Charles Square), which is home to the beautiful 14th century New Town Hall, a baroque church, and nice park. Right nearby is the wonderful Naplavka promenade along the Vlatva river, a lovely place for strolling and jogging. There are also fun activities such as pedal-boating and river cruises, which are always popular with kids.

Every Saturday, a food market takes place along the promenade near Zítkovy sady park, which also hosts permanent bars in the former portholes and on moored boats. It’s a great scene at weekends, with a good cross-section of Prague (young people and students, families, friends, couples, etc.) coming in to chow-down, drink some beers, and enjoy the vibe - if you’re a foodie and are visiting over a weekend, it’s a really great option. There are few parts of the city that are more fun on the weekends!

And after long days of eating and drinking, you can work off the calories with a nice walk around the fortress of Vyšehrad, on the New Town’s southern edge, which overlooks the river and has a church, park, restaurants, and a beer garden.

Where to stay

Miss Sophie’s New Town - An intimate, charming and affordable boutique on the border with Vinohrady, with 16 rooms available for up to four people. Service is welcoming and Wenceslas Square is a 10-minute walk away. €70-190

Hotel Cosmopolitan - This breezy but elegant hotel has comfortable rooms, a gym and sauna, and a popular high-end restaurant run by local celebrity chef Zdeněk Pohlreich. €140-280

NH Collection Carlo IV - Another high-end option, this one occupies a former bank near the main train station and has opulent, Italian-influenced public spaces and rooms. Facilities include a decadent spa with a heated pool, a great restaurant and a chic lobby bar. €180-400

W Prague - One of the newest kids on the block, the stylish new W Prague sits right on Wenceslas Square. Occupying a landmark listed Art Nouveau building, it’s an upscale all-rounder, with a steak restaurant, two cocktail bars, a spa and splashy rooms and interiors. €230-450

4. Vinohrady

Pros: Slightly away from the center but still accessible; local/neighborhood feel; lots of good restaurants, cafes and bars; pleasant green spaces; charming residential architecture

Cons: Takes a while to get to the central areas, low on tourist sights, not much nightlife, longer walking distances between places of interest in the neighborhood

*Jiřího z Poděbrad square. Photo:* *VitVit*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Lovely Peace Square (Náměstí Míru). Photo:* *VitVit*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Vinohrady, which extends east from Wenceslas Square and New Town, is another fairly central area that offers a much more residential and local atmosphere when compared to the previous three city center neighborhoods.

The area itself isn’t filled with big sights, but it’s very close to everything you’ll want to see in central Prague, and it has the benefit of being far, far less touristy. Fairly international, Vinohrady is a nice mix of expats and wealthier locals, mostly consisting of younger and middle-aged professionals. And while it’s definitely a bit upscale, it doesn’t feel at all stuffy or pretentious - it’s just a nice place.

You’ll find a good deal of very pretty architecture, some lovely leafy green spaces and pleasant squares, and all sorts of artisan coffee shops, chic restaurants, and indie boutiques. I really like this area and it’s somewhere that I find myself spending a lot of time in whenever I’m in Prague.

The only real downside I can think of is that there aren’t tons of hotels here, so you’ll often need to look for short-term apartments instead. I realize that many people actually prefer an AirBnB or apartment, so that may not even be a negative for you.

As for getting around, if you stay in the center of the neighborhood or anywhere west of it - I think it’s helpful to consider the Jiřího z Poděbrad metro stop as the center point - you’ll find that just about all of Prague’s big sights are within easy walking distance, but there are also a number of streets served by trams that run straight into New Town, Old Town, and even up to Prague Castle. Additionally, both the A and C metro lines pass through the district, so you have lots of good transit options for getting into the center and all around the city.

When staying here, it’s an absolute pleasure to wander the long avenues - Korunní, or Vinohradska, for example - and admire the finely restored tenements, and to linger at lovely spots like Náměstí Míru, a square as tranquil as its name implies (it translates to Peace Square). I sometimes just take a seat on one of the benches and enjoy a coffee, or grab lunch at one of the several good cafes and restaurants nearby.

If you visit around Christmas, the square has a very nice Christmas Market; and if you like beer, the Prague Beer Museum is just around the corner.

East of Náměstí Míru, the district gets ever more local and offers many other pleasant areas, such as Jiřího z Poděbrad square, which hosts a popular market on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, with seasonal as well as artisanal products and takeaway options too, plus flowers during the warmer months. The central church, the modernist Church of the Most Sacred Heart of our Lord, which is right on the Square, is very photogenic.

The district is great for families too, as it hosts a lot of parks/green spaces, including two especially wonderful ones: the large and hilly Grébovka (Havlíčkovy Sady), which has great views, a wine cellar with its own local vineyards, and playgrounds; and Riegrovy Sady, which is popular with sunset-lovers, beer drinkers, and picnickers in summer due to its city views.

While Vinohrady is a bit quieter on the nightlife front, there are plenty of pubs, wine bars, and cocktail spots dotted throughout the area, as well as clubs like Radost FX. Anyone coming to Prague to party, though, should choose the more central areas.

Where to stay

Hotel Anna Prague - Small and a bit old-fashioned in its decor, this is nonetheless a cute, intimate and affordable option with high-ceilinged rooms, a reasonable buffer breakfast and warm service. €90-160 per night

Coru House - A nice apart-hotel with everything from studios to 3 bedroom apartments, Coru is super well-located just off of Namesti Miru and in the middle of everything in Vinohrady. The apartments are relatively small but very modern and equipped with everything you need. €100-€150 per night (for a 1-bedroom apartment)

Fleur de Lis - Lovely four-star spot with 27 large and comfortable rooms (including family rooms), and friendly staff manning the 24-hour reception desk. Buffer breakfast available. €110-200 per night

Le Palais Art Hotel - This classic and sophisticated hotel occupies a nineteenth-century villa and offers refined rooms and public areas, a handsome restaurant and lobby bar, plus a wellness area with a good menu of treatments. €160-280 per night

5. Žižkov

Pros: Trendy, up-and-coming feel; slightly away from the center but still accessible; local/neighborhood vibe; youthful and buzzy; lots of good pubs; many artistic spots; some green spaces; home to the weird but cool TV tower

Cons: Further from the central areas, low on tourist sights, not much nightlife, rougher atmosphere in parts, lower density of bars/restaurants/cafes

*Looking down on Škroupovo náměstí square from the TV Tower. Photo:* *Huhulenik*, *CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*Prokopovo Namesti Square in Žižkov. Photo:* *User:Aktron*, *CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

To the north of Vinohrady and just east of the Old Town, Žižkov is known as one of the the main working-class districts of the city center. It was also a separate city until 1922, and people still occasionally refer to it as the “Free Republic of Žižkov”. As for architecture, while this is still a historic area with old buildings, the construction here is not nearly as pretty as in the center, and you’ll find lots of large apartment blocks. It’s by no means an ugly area, but just don’t expect it to be as charming or quaint as Stare Mesto or Mala Strana.

Like Vinohrady, the neighborhood is big on residential appeal, with one of the youngest demographics in the city. The neighborhood has been slower to gentrify, but the hipsters have definitely arrived at this point, and the population has become increasingly international and cosmopolitan in recent years. And although I’m kind of poking fun at hipsters there, it’s actually a pretty nice mix of old-time, more working class residents and younger professionals, artists, and “alternative types”, so the atmosphere really is quite good.

I think that a stay here will appeal most to younger visitors (let’s say somewhere around 30 and under), especially those who like a bit of urban edge thanks to the many graffiti-daubed facades, a slightly ramshackle aura, and a famous array of strip clubs and traditional workers’ pubs, the latter of which can feel slightly intimidating at first glance, but are generally friendly.

Age considerations aside, I’d say that Žižkov is best suited for people who are in Prague on a second or third trip or are staying for more than just a few days, but the district is very well-served by public transport, so it can be a good choice even for first-time visitors on a quick trip who really want to stay away from tourist crowds while maintaining quick access to the big sights.

Several trams head straight into the center from here, with trip times of between 5-20 minutes depending on exactly where you’re leaving from/heading to. There are also regular buses, which take around the same amount of time.

While the neighborhood is quite low on tourist sights, it does boast the city’s 216-meter-tall brutalist TV Tower, which has been voted one of the ugliest buildings in Europe - unfairly in my opinion! The tower’s cachet has increased in recent years though, due to the addition of artist David Černý’s creepy faceless babies that ‘crawl’ up and down its stem, and it also hosts an observation deck, a restaurant, a one-room hotel, and a mini golf course in the park that surrounds the base.

Another place of interest for history fans is the statue of Hussite general Jan Žižka (and his horse) at the top of Vítkov hill. The military leader gave the district its name, and right next to his statue is the massive National Monument, which contains a museum.

Žižkov also has its own green oasis in the shape of Parukářka park, which has great views, the prerequisite pub and beer garden, plus an underground bunker that has been turned into a climbing wall and a “nuclear museum.”

Given its good access to the park and other recreational areas, affordability of accommodation, and relative calm when compared to more central areas, this is also potentially a good choice for families with little kids.

When it comes to nightlife, the neighborhood is not as lively as some other areas, but it’s far from dead in the evenings, and the crowd is overwhelmingly local, so it’s fun to mix it up with residents rather than fellow tourists. You’ll still find plenty of wine and cocktail bars and some great late-night spots, none more impressive than the long-established Palác Akropolis, a vast multi-purpose complex with a restaurant, several bars, a concert venue, and a club.

Look out too for alternative local cinemas like Kino Aero, which has a cafe-bar and outdoor courtyard.

Where to stay

Hotel Prokop Square - A nice little boutique hotel that’s well-located just a few blocks from Prokopovo Square. The courtyard is very pleasant and the rooms are nicely mondern. €100-120

Hotel Carlton - There are 73 comfortable and pleasant rooms, including some with extra bed options for families, in this larger hotel. The reception is open around the clock and there’s a private sauna as well as a buffet breakfast. €130-210

One Room Hotel - This is a unique option: spend a night at the Žižkov TV Tower. There’s only one room so you’ll have it all to yourself, and it's stylish too—but of course it’s also a novelty so very far from the cheapest option. €250-500

6. Holešovice

Pros: The neighborhood is “on the up”, it has good transit options to reach the center, neat post-industrial atmosphere with some communist curiosities, youthful and lively, diverse demographic, great green spaces

Cons: Far from the center, no real tourist sights, the architecture is not pretty, some parts are a bit less walkable (more car centric)

*Strossmayerovo náměstí, one of the main squares in Holešovice. Photo:* *Dezidor*, *CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

*The (not-so-pretty) area around Holešovice metro station in the north of the neighborhood. Photo:* *Martin2035*, *CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

The furthest district out from the center on this list, Holešovice is located on the north side of the river, due north from Staré Město and northeast of Malá Strana and Prague Castle. Given its distance from the main sights I would mostly recommend it for returning visitors who have already seen the tourist spots and are now looking to explore more local parts of the city.

That said, it’s still only a very pleasant 30-40-minute walk from both Malá Strana and Staré Město, and there are a couple of metro stops on line C around here, as well as trams, all of which will get you quickly and easily into other parts of the city. You won’t be right in the center, but staying here puts you away from the crowds while still maintaining fairly quick access to the sights.

The eastern part of the neighborhood, which is farther away from central Prague, is a bit more spread out, with very large blocks. While it’s still walkable, you’ll notice that lots of residents have their own cars, so it’s not the area I’d recommend.

However, if you stay to the southwest, closer to Letna Park and the river, you’ll be very conveniently located for getting around and will find that the area is more densely populated, the apartment buildings are prettier (although by no means spectacular), and there’s just generally more going on with lots of restaurants, bars, shops, and people always out and about.

Close to both Letna and the river is Strossmayerovo Square, a beautifully-restored and partially pedestrianized square, thoroughfare, and transit hub. If you choose to stay in this neighborhood, you’d be hard pressed to find a better location than right there. From there, you have the metro (Vltavská station) and a host of tram lines at your fingertips, tons of restaurants and shops around, and can quickly walk over to the river and Letna.

While I’ve already said that I think Holešovice is probably best for people who have already been to Prague before, I also think it would suit anyone with strong art-leaning or “trend-spotting” preferences. Formerly a meat-packing district, it now has a distinctive post-industrial charm and has been gradually “modernized” by the many younger locals and students who have moved into the area. They blend in rather nicely with the longer-standing and still diverse local population of families, elderly people, and a smattering of immigrants.

Lots of neat places have opened up here in recent years and along with major creative spaces such as the DOX Center for Contemporary Art, you can now find smaller galleries, trendy boutiques, and a good number of coffee shops and bars cafes and bars. Another big draw, especially for families, are the wonderful green spaces in the neighborhood, mainly Letná Park and Stromovka.

Letná is especially pretty and popular, combining views over the Vltava with beer gardens, sunbathing areas, a skating area where a statue of Stalin once stood, and summertime crowds of people enjoying the sundown vistas with beers and the occasional salsa dance party.

Stromovka Park, north of Letná is more sprawling, with its eastern edge sitting close to Vystaviste, the exhibition grounds founded in 1981 for the Jubilee Czech Exhibition, which nowadays offer regular cultural events.

Also nearby is Veletržní palác (Trade Fair Palace), part of the National Gallery, which hosts 20th and 21st century art, including Czech greats such as Gustav Klimt and Oskar Kokoschka.

Where to stay

Sir Toby’s Hostel - Opened since 1999, this is one of the oldest hotels in Prague. But it feels contemporary as well as lively, with a great bar and regular events. Private rooms as well as dorms available. €60-130

Mama Shelter Prague - Set inside a former communist hotel, this local Mama Shelter has seriously vast dimensions with oodles of space for on-site amenities such as a generous lobby bar and restaurant. Rooms are simple but comfortable. €100-200

Plaza Prague Hotel - Pleasant four-star close to DOX with seasonal Italian cuisine in the well-lit restaurant, decent and colourful rooms and friendly service. €90-210

Absolutum Boutique Hotel - A design-savvy wellness hotel with dapper, eco-aware rooms, a private sauna, and a stylish restaurant (Czech and international cuisine) that has a cosy fireplace for winter. €120-230

Other neighborhoods to consider

If you’re only staying in Prague for a few days, staying in or close to the center - in any of the 6 neighborhoods that I’ve recommended above - is your best bet, as you’ll be right next door to all the sights, cultural institutions, and restaurants, that you’re undoubtedly looking to fit into your trip.

However, if you’ll be in town for a while and want to try something a little different where you can live more like a local, you might want to consider Karlín, in District 8, which despite being further away and offering no sights of particular interest, is a very nice, livable area.

Here’s a quick overview of the neighborhood:

Karlín (Prague 8)

*Looking out over Karlín. Photo:* *PatrikPaprika*, *CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons*

Decimated by floods in 2002, the riverside district of Karlín has bounced back in recent years to become a charming and increasingly hip neighbourhood. The water-logged buildings have now been replaced by high-end apartment and office complexes that are mixed in with older nineteenth-century tenements, all of which are increasingly popular with young professionals.

In recent years, lots of fantastic bars, restaurants and cafés have popped up here, including many trendy ones, so although it’s a small district, it has plenty to offer visitors as well as residents.

It’s also well-connected to central Prague via tram and metro, and is even walkable if you don’t mind a 30-45 minute stroll, depending on which end of the district you stay in. There’s not much in the way of nightlife or tourist sites, so if you’re searching for some peace and quiet, this is a good bet.

Where to Stay in Prague - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide

Overview of Prague’s layout

Quick summary of my 6 recommended neighborhoods

1. Staré Město

Where to stay

2. Malá Strana

Where to stay

3. Nové Město

Where to stay

4. Vinohrady

Where to stay

5. Žižkov

Where to stay

6. Holešovice

Where to stay

Other neighborhoods to consider

Karlín (Prague 8)

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