Where to Stay in Copenhagen - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide
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It feels like more and more people are discovering Copenhagen every year. And they should – it’s wonderful! I see tourists all the time now - cycling (somewhat nervously) in the bike lanes, wandering around Tivoli amusement park, and queueing happily for pastries at the city’s wonderful bakeries.
So, if like these other wise tourists, you’ve also decided to pay a visit to my wonderful adopted city, at some point or another the sticky question of “where to stay” is sure to be on your mind. And that’s what I’m here to help with!
Whenever I go away and come home, I’m immediately reminder how easy it is to get around and how quiet the city feels. But there’s diversity here; from the busier and more tightly packed city center (called ‘Indre By’ in Danish) to the outer neighborhoods full of bars, restaurants and locals going about their daily lives.
I’ve put together this guide with the goal of introducing you to the city, explaining its layout, and recommending a selection of neighborhoods that I think make sense for all different types of travelers.
Table of Contents
Overview of Copenhagen's layout
Map of Copenhagen delineating its city center and central neighborhoods. Stefan Ertmann, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Copenhagen is built around a harbor, and although it’s no longer a working port it still forms the backbone of the city. The city center (Indre By), main sights and attractions, and principal shopping areas all grew out from the port and they remain within a stone’s throw of the water.
With the harbor and sea forming the entire eastern border of the city, the rest of Copenhagen fans out to the north, south, and west of the city center.
Using Indre By as our central reference point, you'll immediately notice a few important geographical features.
To the southeast and separated from the city center by the "canal” that bisects all of Copenhagen, you have the island area of Christianshavn (home to our Opera house) which is cut all throughout by canals. Further east and south of there, you have a much larger almond-shaped island called Amager that pretty much comprises all of Copenhagen's southern half. Amager is a mostly residential area that doesn't have much of interest for tourists. That said, it contains a massive nature reserve as well as the city's international airport.
Now, to Indre By's west and northwest, you'll see what looks like one big rectangular lake. This is not one lake, but rather a series of them and they form the border between the city center and neighborhoods like Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.
Your final reference should be Kobenhavn train station and the jumble of train tracks leading into it. The train station, adjacent to Tivoli amusement park, separates the city center from the neighborhood of Vesterbro.
There are, of course, loads more neighborhoods further out from the center, but for first time visitors these 3 areas - Vesterbro, Frederiksberg and Nørrebro - are the ones I recommend you consider, along with Indre By. They're are all pleasant, central, and very nice to stay in.
Quick summary of my 4 recommended neighborhoods
In general, I recommend that visitors stay centrally as this puts you in a good position to cycle and wander about the city's streets. This is the way Copenhagen was meant to be enjoyed!
Also, it's not a city with dozens of "must visit” sights, and much of the pleasure of being here is just in meandering about and enjoying the wonderful atmosphere. So, you don't want to lose lots of time commuting in and out of the central areas.
Below, I've provided a quick summary of each of my 4 recommended neighborhoods. Later in the article I've dedicated a full section to further discussing each of them, and sharing some hotel recommendations.
As you think about where to base yourself, I think there are a few questions you should focus on.
Your first consideration should be: what are you doing here and what do you want to be closest to? Are you planning to do a lot of sightseeing and museum visits, are you coming to explore Danish food culture, or are you just looking to hang out for a couple of days?
Next, consider how you’ll want to get around. Will you take the plunge and try out cycling with the locals, or stick to the public transport system and your own two feet?
Of course, each area has its own unique features, and these will appeal to different people. So, you also need to think about the type of atmosphere you like and the vibe you’re going for. Regardless of what neighborhood you ultimately choose, one certainty that you can count on is that a good bakery will never be far away!
Here’s a quick look at the four neighborhoods that I think are the best choices for most visitors:
1. Indre By
For the greatest concentration of sights, the city center is the place to be. It’s busy and a bit touristy, but this is for a reason - it’s where most of the attractions are, as well as countless shops and cafes.
2. Nørrebro
Densely packed and a true multicultural melting pot, Nørrebro (pronounced Nurr-bo) is a diverse and creative neighborhood filled with great bars, restaurants, and independent shops. It’s always busy and a favorite area for young people.
3. Vesterbro
A touch quieter than Nørrebro but no less packed with restaurants and bars, Vesterbro is the place to be if you want to be close to Indre By & the central train station, but in a neighborhood that feels local and less touristy.
4. Frederiksberg
This more residential area offers green spaces, wide streets, and a bit of a break from the crowds. With the manicured Frederiksberg Have park at its center, this is the ideal place to be if you want to take it a bit slower, while still being close to the action.
1. Indre By
Best for: Those short on time and wanting to pack in all the sights
Pros: Smack in the middle of everything, walking distance to all the museums and attractions, right next to the harbor (great for walks and swims)
Cons: Can be crowded and is rather touristy. A lot of the shops and commerce are generic chains, so it doesn't feel very local
Indre By is the heart of Copenhagen and the very center of the city. Before industrialization brought people from all over into Europe's cities and forced their rapid expansion and resulting urban sprawl, this central area was Copenhagen - there weren’t any other parts of the city.
And although Copenhagen and therefore Indre By are more than 900 years old, it doesn't look it! Not many of the oldest buildings survive - largely thanks to Copenhagen’s incredible talent for catching on fire - but the grand buildings that do remain are almost all found here in the center, and they allow us to track the city's growth from a little merchant port to an important European capital, and then into a modern, design-forward powerhouse.
These historic buildings now house a mix of arts institutions, government buildings, and royal palaces.
Intermixed with these original structures are colorful canal-side houses from the 17th and 18th centuries, and then lots of modern buildings made of brick, steel, and glass. Between them, they house offices, shops, restaurants, and everything else you'd expect from the downtown of a big, Northern European city.
When it comes to sightseeing, the vast majority of Copenhagen's touristic sights and attractions are found here: Tivoli, Nyhvan, Christiania, the Rundetaarn tower, Rosenborg Castle, the Church of Our Savior, Amalienborg Palace, and on and on. If you want to see the sights and “get your tourist on”, this is certainly where you'll be spending most of your time.
Being the geographic center of the city and the area where all the main sights are, almost every guide you read recommends staying here. And, if you're short on time and value convenience above all else, I'd agree with them. Staying here means you’ll be able to visit most things on foot and will rarely need to hop on a bike or dip down into the metro. You can really get around quickly and easily to just about everywhere from here, including nearby neighborhoods.
That said, Indre By is far and away the most touristy part of Copenhagen and there isn't really a whole lot to do there outside of sightseeing. Many of the shops are chains or tourist-oriented, the restaurants are rarely very good (and almost always both a bit generic and overpriced), and you won't see much in the way of local life. While plenty of people work in the center, few live there, and even fewer go to visit it in their free time. As a local, I almost never find myself there unless I'm showing around friends from out of town.
Now, those downsides shouldn't necessarily dissuade you from staying here. Aside from the convenient location, this is also the neighborhood with the best selection of hotels. Copenhagen pretty quickly gets residential outside of the center, so if you want to have a lot of choice, the city center is your best bet.
And even if some parts of it can get very crowded and feel a little "light on charm”, plenty of it is lovely and very picturesque. If you’re looking for a quintessential European city feel, this is the place you’re most likely to find it. And unlike many downtowns, Indre By doesn't go dark at night - its bars and restaurants are always busy, mostly with a mix of tourists and local business people out and about after work.
So, like anywhere, there are both positives and negatives to staying in this part of town, so if you do decide to stay here, 'd just recommend selecting a hotel that's at least a couple of blocks away from Rådhuspladsen (City Hall square), which can feel overwhelmingly busy and a bit tacky.
And if you're looking for somewhere to eat while in the neighborhood, I always like to take friends to Torvehallerne, a high-end food market packed with upmarket produce that is a great place to try Danish smørrebrod (open sandwiches). The center also has a couple of very high-end, Michelen Star restaurants, so there is some excellent (but expensive) fine dining to be had here.
Where to stay
Hotel D’Angleterre - Certainly Denmark’s most famous and most fancy hotel, this is Copenhagen’s all-out luxury option for when budget is no consideraton. $900-1,500 USD.
Radisson Collection Royal Hotel - Designed by the famed architect Arne Jacobsen, there are touches of his design throughout, from the specially designed cutlery to the chairs in the lobby. $200-350 USD.
71 Nyhavn - One of the best addresses in Copenhagen, this chic hotel is situated in a renovated warehouse overlooking Copenhagen’s harbor. $200-350 USD.
25hours Hotel Indre By - $250 USD.
Scandic Nørreport - A relatively basic hotel that’s extremely convenient for sightseeing due to its position basically on top of Nørreport metro & train station- the central hub connecting the noodles of much of Copenhagen’s transport network. (4 Stars / $120 to $200 USD)
71 Nyhavn - One of the best addresses in Copenhagen, situated in a nicely renovated warehouse overlooking Copenhagen’s harbor. (5 Stars / $200 to $350 USD)
Ibsens Hotel - It’s sandwiched between the lakes and Torvehallerne (the main food market), with compact but functional rooms making it a good base to explore the whole of Indre By. (3 Stars / $100 to $180 USD)
2. Nørrebro
Best for: Travelers in their 20s and early 30s, night owls
Pros: Busy, multicultural, great dining and nightlife scene
Cons: Can be loud and skews younger. Not a large selection of hotels
The first buildings in Nørrebro, seen from across the lake that separates it from Indre By
Northwest of Indre By and separated from it by a lovely lake, Nørrebro is the multicultural and youthful heart of Copenhagen.
Like many of the residential neighborhoods that circle the center, it was working class and densely populated until relatively recently. Once a center of union organizing and workers’ rights, it proudly retains a sense of independence and rebellion. The waves of immigrants who have moved in over the decades have also embraced and maintained these roots. This multicultural atmosphere is unique among Copenhagen's neighborhoods.
The streets are always busy with life, and if the sun is out then the sidewalks are sure to be full of people out dining, drinking, and walking around.
Nørrebro is lively and creative, with walls often covered in graffiti and posters. This artistic vibe continues indoors, and a couple of my favourite art galleries in Copenhagen are here: Bricks and Limited Works.
In terms of dining, the streets are full of restaurants and cafes, many of them quite trendy, and new businesses are popping up all the time. You'll find everything from creative falafel joints to specialty coffee shops, wine bars, and international fusion restaurants. Wooden tables spill all over the sidewalk and the atmosphere is social and fun. Prices tend to be pretty reasonable too (by Scandinavian standards).
A great place to get a sense of the local community is at one of Nørrebro’s many outdoor spaces. Two definitely not to miss are the Assistens graveyard where H.C. Anderson is buried and the extremely Instagrammable Superkilen park. Thanks to the dominance of a bossy three-year-old, you’ll almost certainly find me in Nørrebroparken playground each weekend, standing by the swings with a coffee from the nearby roastery Coffee Collective. Say hi if you see me!
Now, for some less positive notes. Keep in mind that this is mostly a residential area and it isn’t set up to service tourists. You don't have many hotels to choose from and the neighborhood's two metro stops, at the western edge of the neighborhood (i.e. a bit far away) will take around 15 minutes to get to the main tourist attractions in the center. You can easily walk or cycle into the center, however.
It also feels markedly more ‘gritty’ than the rest of Copenhagen, and I know that not everyone enjoys that. Of course, take that comment with a grain of salt - nowhere in Copenhagen really feels gritty or dodgy. And what grittiness you will still find is largely in the process of disappearing due to the unstoppable forces of gentrification. A good, if weird, example of this is the recent opening of the area's first McDonald's, which was heavily protested against!
Another thing to keep in mind is that the busy bars and restaurants can stay open until fairly late into the night, so the streets can be a bit noisy.
I think Nørrebro is a good choice if you're in your 20s or 30s, interested in spending time in a real local neighborhood, want to partake in some nightlife, and are spending more than just a day or two here.
Where to stay
This is quite a residential neighborhood so the main thing is Airbnb or apartment rental via Booking.com
Kong Arthur - Facing the lakes, it’s a boutique and charming option a little walk away from the busier streets. $100-300 USD
3. Vesterbro
Best for: Foodies and those wanting a nice balance between touristy and non-touristy
Pros: Creative and cool, Vesterbro is more mature than youthful Nørrebro but offers no less in terms of cafes, restaurants and bars. It’s also perfectly located to dip in and out of Indre By
Cons: It's a bit less "happening” than Nørrebro (which could be good or bad depending on what you're after) and there are no major sights within the neighborhood itself
Vesterbro's hip meatpacking district. Photo: Terragio67, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Benefitting from close proximity to the central train station and Tivoli amusement park and positively bursting with good places to eat and drink, Vesterbro is definitely a neighborhood on the up.
Formerly the home of the red light district, the area is now known as one of the more creative neighborhoods, and it's home to many young families. Its location - tucked just southwest of Indre By, makes it a very convenient base from which to explore the city. In general, I think it's a great choice for pretty much anyone who wants to stay somewhere that is pleasant, fun, local, and close the center.
Just like Nørrebo, Vesterbro is filled with picturesque early 20th-century workers' housing, but it's also full of former industrial spaces that have been regenerated and renovated for new uses. It also differs from Nørrebro in that there’s a lot more choice here when it comes to hotels. Prices tend to be much better than in the city center.
Because of the availability of so many ex-industrial spaces (and the affordable rents that they offer businesses), you'll find loads of restaurants, music and art galleries/workshops, and a lot of well-used outdoors space. Regeneration is very much the spirit of Vestebro, and it's an area that has undergone significant gentrification as an influx of young people have moved in to open businesses or be near to them.
The buildings are a mix of new and old with lots of cool design choices, and the atmosphere is creative and lively. This is where a lot of people living in Copenhagen go for a night out and there’s always something going on.
One cool new green space is Sønder Boulevard, a wide street with a park running down its centre. One of the neighborhood's main dining and nightlife streets, it's also capped at either end by two of Vesterbro’s main attractions: the meatpacking district and Carlsberg Byen Brewery.
The meatpacking district (Kødbyen in Danish), located right by the central station, is the former center of (you guessed it!) Denmark’s meat processing industry. The area has been repurposed and is now filled with trendy restaurants, bars, and cafes, all packed into a single area. When the sun is out, locals and tourists alike gather here in large numbers.
At the other end of the boulevard is the old Carlsberg brewery. What was once a huge brewery space with large warehouses and production facilities is being rapidly regenerated with more restaurants and cafes. Beer aficionados will be pleased to know it still remains somewhere you can get a cold beer too.
In terms of transportation, you have two subway stations at the beginning and end of the neighborhood: Enghave Plads (on the western side) and Kobenhavn H (the metro stop stop at the central train station). By train, it'll take you just 5-10 minutes to get into the city center. On foot, you're 15-30 minutes from most sights in the city and half that if riding a bike.
The area makes a good base for those wanting to experience Copenhagen’s more energetic side, and for anyone who’s particularly “food motivated”.
As you'd expect, the popularity of the neighborhood's restaurants and bars does of course also mean that it can be loud in the evenings and into the night. If you're looking for tranquility, are a light sleeper, or traveling with little kids, it's probably not the best place to stay.
But for anyone else, a few days in Vesterbro is a great way to experience a local and lively side to the city without sacrificing convenience to the center and sights.
Also, note that the neighborhood is pretty big, so I'd recommend limiting your search to somewhere in between the two metro stops and north of the train tracks.
Where to stay
Villa Copenhagen - Right next to the central station, this relatively new hotel has really neat rooms, a great breakfast, and a rooftop pool. $240-330 USD.
Hotel Ottilia - A design-focused hotel with huge, round windows in each room. It’s a stylish and comfortable place to stay. $125-250 USD.
Good Morning City Copenhagen Star - Right on bustling Istegade avenue, this hotel is adjacent to the central station and a very short walk into Indre By. $100-175 USD.
Scandic Kødbyen - Another Scandic… but they really do offer good value for money. This one is perfectly located right behind the meatpacking district. $90-190 USD.
4. Frederiksberg
Best for: Anyone after a local vibe, families with kids
Pros: Buzzy and multicultural with plenty of bars, live venues, and clubs; great foodie scene including Markthalle 9; more sedate on the western side; a few interesting museums
Cons: Can be busy and loud in some areas on the weekends; a few traffic-heavy and charmless streets
Frederiksberg Palace inside a section of Frederiksberg Have gardens
Although technically its own municipality (and therefore not actually part of the city), from a tourism and living perspective, Frederiksbgerg is just another neighborhood of Copenhagen. Nonetheless, residents are often keen to point out that they're not actually from the city!
Named for the palace built by King Frederik in 1703, the municipality was formerly the summer residence for wealthy citizens wanting to escape the crowded city. This wealth obviously explains why it was able to remain a separate city while everywhere else nearby got swallowed up by Copenhagen's expansion.
Despite these separate origins, Frederiksberg is as connected to the city as anywhere else, with a host of metro stations providing quick and easy access to everywhere else in the city. To give you an idea of just how close it is, consider that Frederiksberg Station is only 2 stops away from Nørreport, one of the main metro stops in Indre By. It'll barely even take you ten minutes to get there.
Situated immediately west of both Vesterbro and Nørrebro, the atmosphere here is distinctly different from both areas. Because of its Royal history, comparative wealth, and separation from the rest of Copenhagen, the entire area feels more upscale and “established” than the rest of the city. It's also markedly less over-crowded.
The area is full of parks (including the wonderful Frederiksberg Have gardens), green spaces, and leafy streets that feel elegant and relaxed. There are lots of high end restaurants, chic cafes, and boutique shops. This a major shopping area, so ideal whether you're looking to buy traditional treats, clothing, or design items of every nature.
In terms of transportation, you have two main metro stops: Aksel Møllers and Frederiksberg. Both will get you into the center of Indre By in less than 15 minutes. Walking from most of Frederiksberg is probably a bit of a stretch (45 minutes of so into the center) but cycling is still an easy option - consider that it'll take you 15-25 minutes.
The slight detachment from the busy city center makes this a nice neighborhood to stay for those who will be visiting for more than just a couple of days, especially if you want somewhere calmer to sleep at night. It’s also very popular with families because of the abundance of playgrounds and parks.
This is where I live, primarily for all the above reasons. It’s a great place to be with small children (which I always have in tow!), and most weekends we go to Frederiksberg Have Gardens, right next to the zoo and the very underrated Cisternerne art gallery.
Having said that, if you’ll only be in town for a couple of days, Frederiksberg may not be your best option. It’s a bit more sleepy and residential than my other suggestions, you’ll have to travel slightly further to where the tourist sights are, and you won't find such dense concentrations of restaurants, bars, and cafes. While you can still easily cycle or metro into the city, it's not as convenient.
Now, if you've been to Copenhagen before or are doing an extended stay, it can be a great way of seeing a local perspective on life. And for anyone who winds up here, either because you’ve booked your accommodation in the area or are just having a look around, be sure to try some of the excellent and long-established restaurants. Sokkelund or Melee are two of my favorites.
Where to stay
Scandic Falkoner - Oh yes, yet another Scandic. This one is located right next to Frederiksberg metro station, Frederiksberg Have and the Frederiksberg Centre- the area's biggest shopping mall. $100-300 USD.
Hotel Hans - Offering a boutique luxury experience, Hotel Hans is located right on the border between Frederiksberg and Nørrebro in a really picturesque old-world square. $110-250 USD.
Central Hotel - The hotel with one room! $100-180 USD.
Other neighborhoods to consider
If you’re only staying in Berlin for a few days, staying in or close to the center is the ideal option, as you really do want to be nearby to all the main sights and have a good selection of restaurants, bars, galleries etc. However, if you’re a returning visitor, you’ll be staying in town for a while, or you just want to try something a little different and live more like a local, you might want to consider the following neighborhoods:
Christianshavn
Located right next to Indre By, Christianshavn is one of Copenhagen’s more affluent neighborhoods. It has a refined and relaxed atmosphere, thanks to the lovely houses that line the canals and the slow sound of tourist boats cruising slowly around.
The area was originally modelled on Amsterdam - and like Amsterdam, the streets can feel busy and densely packed, but they're also cosy and provide a real sense of history.
The downside to Christianshavn is that it isn't very big and there aren't many accommodation options. It's an area better suited to visiting than stay in.
Østerbro
Tucked in between the more industrial elements of the harbor and Nørrebro, Østerbro is one of Copenhagen’s quieter and more family-friendly neighborhoods.
There isn't a ton to do here, but it's perfectly nice. And you have one of Copenhagen’s best bakeries, Juno. Fælledparken, the park around the national stadium, is also great for a walk among the endless football (soccer) fields.
In general, I find Østerbro to be a bit out of the way and parts of it can seem very quie, especially on the weekends. It's not a bad area to stay in, but it's not a particularly interesting/exciting one either.
Malmø- Sweden
This is a rather “alternative” suggestion, but the train between Copenhagen’s central station and Malmø in Sweden takes just 30 minutes and there's no border control or any sort of check. So, you really can stay in Malmo and day trip into Copenhagen.
If you’re visiting Copenhagen for just a couple of days, this isn't a good recommendation (the cost of the train alone would negate anything you might save by staying in cheaper Malmo), but if you’re planning a longer trip and want to explore two countries at once, it could be worth considering.
With its own culinary scene and attractions, not to mention language and currency, Malmø feels very distinct from Copenhagen, despite only being about 30km away.