Where to Stay in Copenhagen - A Local’s Neighborhood Guide
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It feels like more and more people are discovering Copenhagen every year. And they should - it’s wonderful! I see tourists all the time now - cycling (somewhat nervously) in the bike lanes, wandering around Tivoli amusement park, and queueing happily for pastries at the city’s wonderful bakeries.
So, if like these other wise tourists, you’ve decided to pay a visit to my wonderful adopted city, at some point or another the sticky question of “where to stay” is sure to be on your mind. And that’s what I’m here to help with!
Whenever I go away and come home, I’m immediately reminded how easy it is to get around and how pleasant the city feels. This is true of basically every neighborhood in the general city center area, so you'll be somewhere nice and well connected no matter where you choose. That's not to say that everywhere is identical, however. The neighborhoods are fairly different from each other; from the busier and more tightly packed Indre By (the city center) to residential neighborhoods like Vesterbro and Norrebro which are full of bars, restaurants and locals going about their daily lives.
I’ve put together this guide with the goal of introducing you to the city, explaining its layout, and recommending a selection of neighborhoods that I think make sense for all different types of travelers.
Table of Contents
Overview of Copenhagen's layout
Map of Copenhagen delineating its city center and central neighborhoods. Stefan Ertmann, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Before talking about where to stay, let's first take a moment to understand Copenhagen's layout and geography.
The city is built around a harbor, and although it’s no longer a working port it still forms the backbone of the city. The center (Indre By) began on the port's edge and the city further expanded out from there. Today, the main sights, all the big attractions, and the principal shopping areas remain within a stone’s throw of the water.
When looking at a map and trying to understand the city, there are a few major reference points that will help you get your bearings:
Kobenhavns havn and Amager - Kobenshavn Havn means "Copenhagen Harbor”, althougn on the map you'll probably find that it looks more like a river or canal. It's what separates Indre By and the west of the city from the areas of Christianshavn (home to the famous Opera house and Freetown Christiania) and the big island of Amager where we have our airport. Christianshavn is a wealthy residential area but also home to Freetown which is a sort of anarchist commune and a major tourist attraction. Amager is a residential area that doesn't have much of interest for tourists.
The Lakes - To Indre By's west and northwest, you'll see what looks like one big rectangular lake. However, it's actually a series of separate lakes that form the border between the city center and neighborhoods like Nørrebro and Frederiksberg.
Kobenhavn Tor - This is Copenhagen's central train station. It's adjacent to Tivoli amusement park and separates the city center from the southwestern neighborhood of Vesterbro.
Outside of this central area (i.e. as you go further from the lakes or further south of train station), the city becomes quieter, less dense, and much more residential. There are plenty of pleasant areas, but they're not places that you're likely to visit or which you should consider as a base.
Quick summary of my 4 recommended neighborhoods
In general, I recommend that visitors stay in the city center or very close to it as this puts you in a good position to cycle and wander about the city's streets. This is the way Copenhagen was meant to be enjoyed!
Also, this isn't a city with dozens of "must see” sights, and much of the pleasure of being here is just found in meandering about and enjoying the wonderful atmosphere. So, you don't want to lose lots of time commuting in and out of the central areas.
Another consideration is that Copenhagen really doesn't have all that many hotels outside of the Indre By (the city center) and short-term apartment rentals are strictly regulated, so you're pretty limited in terms of what areas you can stay in. Basically, you'll want to stay near the city and you can't stay anywhere else anyways.
As you weigh the pros and cons of each area, be sure to also think about how you’ll want to get around. Do you want to do everything on foot or will you take the plunge and try out cycling with the locals? There's also a good public transport network, but whether you're ok losing time commuting and riding the metro is something you'll have to decide.
Below, I've provided a quick summary of the 4 central neighborhoods that I recommend. Later in the article I discuss each of them in more depth, including specific hotels that I like.
1. Vesterbro
Just to the west of the city center (and an easy walk to it), Vesterbro is a former industrial area that has become one of Copenhagen's trendiest neighborhoods. Surrounding the central train station and close to Tivoli amusement park, the area is packed with restaurants and bars and is ideal for anyone who wants to be very close to the center, but in a nice neighborhood that feels local and less touristy. It's where I would stay if visiting and my usual recommendation for friends and family.
2. Indre By
For the greatest concentration of sights, the city center is the place to be. It’s busy and a bit touristy, but this is for a reason - it’s where most of the attractions are, as well as countless shops and cafes. With the exception of the gorgeous Nyhvan canal area, I find Indre By less interesting than the other neighborhoods on this list, but it's the most convenient, the architecture is pretty, and it's ideal for anyone here on a very quick visit.
3. Nørrebro
Densely packed and a true multicultural melting pot, Nørrebro (pronounced Nurr-bo) is a diverse and creative neighborhood filled with great bars, restaurants, and independent shops. It’s hip, always busy, and a favorite area for young people. I really like it and think it's a nice choice for travelers who want to stay somewhere that feels like a "lived in” neighborhood, but that is still cool and has lots going on.
4. Frederiksberg
This more residential area offers green spaces, wide streets, and a bit of a break from the crowds. With the unbelievably pretty Frederiksberg Have park and gardens at its center, this is the place to be if you want to take things slower and enjoy some peace and quiet without sacrificing proximity to the sights. It's a wealthy and family-friendly neighborhoods, so great for families with kids and anyone who wants an upscale, but residential atmosphere.
1. Vesterbro
Best for: Foodies and anyone looking for a nice balance between convenient, tourist-friendly, and local
Pros: Great dining scene, trendy, cool architecture, convenient access to public transport, lots of boutique hotels
Cons: Less young and hip than Nørrebro (which could be good or bad depending on what you're after), you'll need to use the metro or a bike to get around
Vesterbro's hip meatpacking district. Photo: Terragio67, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Vesterbro Torv. Photo: Leif Jørgensen, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Benefitting from close proximity to the central train station and Tivoli amusement park and positively bursting with good places to eat and drink, Vesterbro is definitely a neighborhood on the up.
It's trendy, creative, and cool, and while tourist-friendly, it's also a mature neighborhood that attracts lots of locals (largely in their 30s and 40s). The buildings are a mix of new and old with lots of neat design choices, and the atmosphere is creative and lively. It has good cafes, excellent restaurants, and lots of bars.
It’s also perfectly located to dip in and out of Indre By, and is the only residential neighborhood in the city that has a wide selection of hotels. Many of them are a bit boutique (and quite nice) and prices are better than in the city center.
Once home to the city's red light district and various industrial areas, it's now known as one of the city's more creative neighborhoods, and it's very popular with young professionals and young families.
It's filled with picturesque early 20th-century apartment blocks as well as brick factories and warehouses that have been renovated and repurposed for new uses. These many ex-industrial spaces now house loads of restaurants, music venues, and art galleries/workshops, and a lot of well-used outdoors space in and around them.
The meatpacking district (Kødbyen in Danish), located right by the central station, is a great example of this regeneration and is now a gastro hub with restaurants, bars, and cafes, all packed into a single area. When the sun is out, locals and tourists alike gather here in large numbers.
A cool new green space is Sønder Boulevard, a wide street with a park running down its centre. One of the neighborhood's main dining and nightlife streets, it's capped at either end by two of Vesterbro’s main attractions: the meatpacking district and Carlsberg Byen Brewery.
In terms of transportation, you have two subway stations at the beginning and end of the neighborhood: Enghave Plads (on the western side) and Kobenhavn H (the metro stop at the central train station). By train, it'll take you just 5-10 minutes to get into the city center. On foot, you're 15-30 minutes from most sights in the city and half that if riding a bike.
I think this area is a really good choice for travelers in their 30s, 40s, and 50s who want to stay somewhere that's cool and local, still convenient for sightseeing, but less touristy and more "lived in” than the city center. It's also a gastro and arts hub, so great for food and culture-minded visitors.
As you'd expect for a dining and drinking hub, places here close late and it can stay loud through the evening and into the night, so it's not the best choice for people who want peace and quiet or who are turned off by the idea of staying somewhere with a bit of partying going on.
If you choose to stay here, note that the neighborhood is pretty big, so I'd recommend limiting your search to somewhere in between the two metro stops.
Where to stay
Nimb Hotel - With exterior architecture reminiscent of the Taj Mahal, this 5-star hotel in front of Tivoli amusement park is leaning heavily into the theme park vibe (at least on the outside). Inside, it's sleek, design-forward, and incredibly luxurious. $1000+ USD.
Villa Copenhagen - Right next to the central station and housed inside a lovely historic building, this relatively new hotel has gorgeous common areas, neat rooms, a great breakfast, and a rooftop pool. $300 USD.
Grand Joanne - Also by the central station and Tivoli amusement park, the rooms here lean a bit plush, with modern and stylish, but distinctly retro 1970s vibes. $200-300 USD
Hotel Ottilia - A design-focused hotel with huge, round windows in each room. It’s a stylish and comfortable place to stay at a reasonable price. It's located near Carlsberg brewery, so a bit of a walk to the metro, but right next to a commuter train station (which will take you to the city center in 2 stops) $125-250 USD.
Axel Guldsmeden - With loads of wood and bright, colorful accents, the vibe here is fun and active. The rooms are nicely sized, there's an onsite sauna, the hotel offers bike rentals (a major plus), and the location is excellent. $200 USD.
Scandic Kødbyen - Another Scandic… but they really do offer good value for money. This one is perfectly located right behind the meatpacking district. $100-200 USD.
CityHub - Somewhere between a hostel and a hotel, this is actually a really cool concept. The rooms - all private (single and twin) - are tiny, but they have enough space to hang up some clothes and to comfortably store your luggage. It provides exceptional value. $80 USD.
2. Indre By
Best for: Visitors short on time; anyone who wants to be walking distance to the main sights
Pros: Smack in the middle of everything, walking distance to the sights & attractions, right next to the harbor (great for walks and swims), lots of hotels
Cons: Can be crowded, rather touristy around the main sights, very commercial, expensive
An aerial view of Indre By
Nyhvan Canal in Indre By
Indre By is the heart of Copenhagen and the very center of the city. This is where Copenhagen began and it very much remains its main artery.
Although Indre By is more than 900 years old, it doesn't look it! Not many of the oldest buildings survive - largely thanks to Copenhagen’s incredible talent for catching on fire - but the grand buildings that do remain are almost all found here in the center, and they allow us to track the city's growth from a little merchant port to an important European capital, and then into a modern, design-forward powerhouse.
These historic buildings now house a mix of arts institutions, government buildings, and royal palaces. Intermixed with these original structures are colorful canal-side houses from the 17th and 18th centuries (along Nyhvan), and then lots of modern buildings made of brick, steel, and glass. Between them, they house offices, shops, restaurants, and everything else you'd expect from the downtown of a big, Northern European city.
When it comes to sightseeing, the vast majority of Copenhagen's touristic sights and attractions are found here: Tivoli, Nyhvan, Christiania, the Rundetaarn tower, Rosenborg Castle, the Church of Our Savior, Amalienborg Palace, and on and on. If you want to see the sights and “get your tourist on”, this is certainly where you'll be spending most of your time.
Being the geographic center of the city and the area where all the main sights are, almost every guide you read recommends staying here. And, if you're short on time and value convenience above all else, I'd agree with them. Staying here means you’ll be able to visit most things on foot and will rarely need to hop on a bike or dip down into the metro.
That said, although Copenhagen is never a city dominated by tourism, Indre By is far and away the most touristy area and it's also quite commercial. There really isn't much to do in the area outside of sightseeing and shopping. Also, many of the shops are big international chains or tourist-oriented, the restaurants are a bit generic and rarely very good (unless you go high end), and you won't see much in the way of local life. While plenty of people work in the center, few live here, and even fewer go to visit it in their free time. As a local, I basically only find myself here when showing around friends from out of town.
Now, those downsides shouldn't necessarily dissuade you from staying here. Aside from the convenient location, this is also the neighborhood with the best selection of hotels. Because Copenhagen pretty quickly gets residential outside of the center, Indre By is your best bet if you want to have a lot of accommodation choices.
And even if some parts of it can get very crowded and feel a little generic, it's still lovely, the architecture is picturesque, and the many pedestrianized streets make wandering around quite pleasant. And unlike many downtowns, they don't roll up the carpets come evening - the bars and restaurants are always busy, mostly with a mix of tourists and local businesspeople out and about after work.
Where to stay
Hotel D’Angleterre - Certainly Denmark’s most famous and most fancy hotel, this is Copenhagen’s all-out luxury option for when budget is no consideration. If you've got money to burn, go on! $900-1,500 USD.
71 Nyhavn - Upscale and with one of the best addresses in Copenhagen, this lovely hotel is situated in a nicely renovated warehouse overlooking the Nyhavn canal and the harbor. $300-400 USD.
Radisson Collection Royal Hotel - Designed by the famed architect Arne Jacobsen, there are touches of his design throughout, from the specially designed cutlery to the chairs in the lobby. $200-350 USD.
25hours Hotel Indre By - This small European hotel chain is a great option everywhere they have a hotel, and Copenhagen is no different. The location is great and the design is very boutique, very playful, and very nice. It's a great mid-range choice. $250 USD.
Hotel Bethel - A very solid option if you want to stay overlooking Nyhavn and the harbor but don't want to break the bank. The design is a little “Ikea-y”, but it's still pretty nice and the price is great for the area. $150-200 USD.
Scandic Nørreport - This hotel is a bit basic, but the rooms are super clean and comfy and it's extremely convenient for sightseeing due to its position basically on top of Nørreport metro & train station - the central hub connecting much of Copenhagen’s transport network. $120-200 USD.
Ibsens Hotel - It’s sandwiched between the lakes and Torvehallerne (the main food market), with compact but functional rooms making it a good base to explore the whole of Indre By. $100-180 USD.
3. Nørrebro
Best for: Travelers in their 20s and early 30s, night owls, anyone looking for a more “alternative” vibe
Pros: Busy, hip, multicultural, great dining and nightlife scene, local atmosphere
Cons: Can be loud, skews younger, very few hotels
The first buildings in Nørrebro, seen from across the lake that separates it from Indre By
A section of Superkilken park
Northwest of Indre By and separated from it by a lovely lake, Nørrebro is the multicultural and youthful heart of Copenhagen.
Like many of the residential neighborhoods that circle the center, it was working class until relatively recently and was historically a center of union organizing and workers’ rights. While the demographics have shifted, it proudly retains a sense of independence and rebellion.
Because it used to be cheap, many waves of immigrants moved in here over the past few decades and this is one of the only neighborhoods in Copenhagen that is significantly ethnically and racially diverse. You'll see this reflected in the shops and restaurants, which feel very international. You're as likely to find a kofta and falafel place as you are a Danish hot dog stand.
The streets are always busy with life, and if the sun is out then the sidewalks are sure to be full of people out dining, drinking, and walking around. The parks are filled with mixed groups of people, ranging from parents with little kids, teenagers "rebelliously" smoking weed, and 20 and 30 year olds hanging out and having a casual beer. I know this type of atmosphere isn't for everyone, but if you like this sort of "democratic” spirit, then you'll probably fit right in.
A great place to get a sense of the local community is at one of Nørrebro’s many outdoor spaces. Two definitely not to miss are the Assistens graveyard where H.C. Anderson is buried and the extremely Instagrammable Superkilen park. Thanks to the dominance of a bossy three-year-old, you’ll almost certainly find me in Nørrebroparken playground each weekend, standing by the swings with a coffee from the nearby roastery Coffee Collective. Say hi if you see me!
Relatively lower rent prices also mean that Nørrebro is popular with artists and students, so there's always something going on, with regular events, pop ups, concerts, etc. The creative vibe isn't only on the street though, and a couple of my favorite art galleries in Copenhagen are here: Bricks and Limited Works.
In terms of dining, the streets are full of restaurants and cafes, many of them quite trendy, and new businesses are popping up all the time. You'll find everything from creative vegan joints to specialty coffee shops, wine bars, and international fusion restaurants. Wooden tables spill all over the sidewalk and the atmosphere is social and fun. Prices tend to be pretty reasonable too (by Scandinavian standards).
Now, for some less positive notes. Keep in mind that this is mostly a residential area and it doesn't cater tourists. You almost no hotels in the neighborhood, and its two metro stops are at its western edge, meaning you'll usually have a good walk to the metro, and then an additional 15 minute ride to get into the center. Realistically, if you stay in Nørrebro, you'll want to have a bike.
The area also feels markedly more ‘gritty’ than the rest of Copenhagen, and I know that not everyone enjoys that. Of course, take that comment with a grain of salt - nowhere in Copenhagen really feels edgy or dodgy, and what grittiness you will find is largely in the process of disappearing due to the unstoppable forces of gentrification. A good, if weird, example of this is the recent opening of the area's first McDonald's, which was heavily protested against!
I think Nørrebro is an especially good choice if you're in your 20s or 30s, interested in spending time in a real local neighborhood, want to partake in some nightlife, and are spending more than just a day or two here.
Where to stay
This is quite a residential neighborhood so the main thing is apartment rentals and Airbnb.
Kong Arthur - Technically in Indre By, but directly in front of the lakes that separate the center from Norrebro, this is a charming boutique option a little walk away from the busier streets. $100-250 USD
Hotel Nora - Located smack on Norrebro's main street, this simple budget-to-midrange option puts you close to the neighborhood's best area, but also walking distance to the city center. It's pretty simple, but the rooms are big and comfortable.
Urban Camper Hostel - For a hostel stay in a cool part of the neighborhood, Urban Camper is your best best. $30 USD for dorms and $90 for a private room.
4. Frederiksberg
Best for: Families with kids, older travelers staying for more than a few days;
Pros: Leafy and elegant, great green spaces, quiet but close to Vesterbro's action, great foodie scene at Markthalle 9
Cons: Primarily residential, less lively than other neighborhoods, can feel pretentious, the main streets are traffic-heavy, almost no hotels
Frederiksberg Palace inside a section of Frederiksberg Have gardens. Photo: Jacob Bøtter from Copenhagen, Denmark, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Frederiksberg Allé near Madvigs Allé. Photo: Kim Bach, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Although technically its own municipality (and therefore not actually part of the city), from a tourism and living perspective, Frederiksbgerg is just another neighborhood of Copenhagen. Nonetheless, residents are often keen to point out that they're not actually from the city!
Named for the palace built by King Frederik in 1703, the municipality was formerly the summer residence for wealthy citizens wanting to escape the crowded city. This wealth obviously explains why it was able to remain a separate city while everywhere nearby got swallowed up by Copenhagen's expansion.
Despite these separate origins, Frederiksberg is as connected to the city as anywhere else, with a host of metro stations providing quick and easy access to the center. To give you an idea of just how close it is, consider that Frederiksberg Station is only 2 stops away from Nørreport, one of the main metro stops in Indre By. It'll barely even take you 10 minutes to get there.
Situated in between Vesterbro and Nørrebro, the atmosphere here is distinctly different from its neighbors. Because of its Royal history, comparative wealth, and separation from the rest of Copenhagen, the entire area feels more upscale and “established” than the rest of the city. It's also markedly less over-crowded. In line with that, it’s a bit more sleepy and residential and you won't find such dense concentrations of restaurants, bars, and cafes.
The area is full of parks (including the wonderful Frederiksberg Have gardens), green spaces, and leafy streets that feel elegant and relaxed. There are lots of high-end restaurants, chic cafes, and boutique shops. This a major shopping area, but very different from the more generic and big brand stores you find in the center. It's a great place to come if you want to shop for traditional treats, Da Danish clothing brands, or Scandi design items of every nature.
In terms of transportation, you have 3 easily accessible metro stops: Forum, Aksel Møllers, and Frederiksberg. All 3 will get you into the center in less than 15 minutes. Walking from most of Frederiksberg is probably a bit of a stretch (about 45 minutes into the center) but cycling is still an easy option - consider that it'll take you 15-25 minutes into downtown on a bike.
The slight detachment from the busy city center makes this a nice neighborhood to stay for those who will be visiting for more than just a couple of days, especially if you want somewhere calmer to sleep at night. It’s also very popular with families because of the abundance of playgrounds and parks.
This is where I live, primarily for the above reasons. It’s a great place to be with small children (which I always have in tow!), and most weekends we go to Frederiksberg Have Gardens or the zoo.
Frederiksberg is definitely not the right choice for the average visitor, but if what I've discussed appeals to you, then it's certainly worth considering.
Where to stay
Because Frederiksberg is a mostly residential area (and a rich one), there are very few hotels here. Your only option is really the first one below.
Scandic Falkoner - Oh yes, yet another Scandic. This one is located right next to Frederiksberg metro station, Frederiksberg Have park, and Frederiksberg Centre - the area's biggest shopping mall. It's pretty nice, very modern, and the rooms are big. $100-300 USD.
Hotel Hans - Offering a boutique luxury experience, Hotel Hans is located right on the border between Frederiksberg and Nørrebro overlooking a really picturesque square. It's all clean lines, dark colors, and a moody Scandinavian aesthetic. $130-250 USD.
Central Hotel - The hotel with one room! It's more fun if I don't describe it -check out their website for more info. Note that it's almost in Vesterbro. $100-180 USD.
Other neighborhoods to consider
If you’re only staying in Berlin for a few days, staying in or close to the center is the ideal option, as you really do want to be nearby to all the main sights and have a good selection of restaurants, bars, galleries etc. However, if you’re a returning visitor, you’ll be staying in town for a while, or you just want to try something a little different and live more like a local, you might want to consider the following neighborhoods:
Christianshavn
Christianshavn Canal. Photo: Thomas Rousing from Copenhagen, Denmark, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Located right next to Indre By, Christianshavn is one of Copenhagen’s more affluent neighborhoods. It has a refined and relaxed atmosphere, thanks to the lovely houses that line the canals and the slow sound of tourist boats cruising slowly around.
The area was originally modelled on Amsterdam - and like Amsterdam, the streets can feel busy and densely packed, but they're also cosy and provide a real sense of history.
The downside to Christianshavn is that it isn't very big and there aren't many accommodation options. It's an area better suited to visiting than stay in.
Østerbro
The pretty street of Nordre Frihavnsgade in Osterbro. Photo: Leif Jørgensen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Tucked in between the more industrial elements of the harbor and Nørrebro, Østerbro is one of Copenhagen’s quieter and more family-friendly neighborhoods.
There isn't a ton to do here, but it's perfectly nice. And you have one of Copenhagen’s best bakeries, Juno. Fælledparken, the park around the national stadium, is also great for a walk among the endless football (soccer) fields.
In general, I find Østerbro to be a bit out of the way and parts of it can seem very quiet, especially on the weekends. It's not a bad area to stay in, but it's not a particularly interesting/exciting one either.
Malmø- Sweden
Malmo
This is a rather “alternative” suggestion, but the train between Copenhagen’s central station and Malmø in Sweden takes just 30 minutes and there's no border control or any sort of check. So, you really can stay in Malmo and day trip into Copenhagen.
If you’re visiting Copenhagen for just a couple of days, this isn't a good recommendation (the cost of the train alone would negate anything you might save by staying in cheaper Malmo), but if you’re planning a longer trip and want to explore two countries at once, it could be worth considering.
With its own culinary scene and attractions, not to mention language and currency, Malmø feels very distinct from Copenhagen, despite only being about 30km away.