Travel Guide to Salento and the Eje Cafetero: Colombian Coffee Country
The Eje Cafetero (Coffee Region) may just be Colombia’s quintessential travel experience. For a country with glorious Caribbean beaches, towering Andean peaks, and deep Amazon rainforest, I realize that’s saying a lot. But the lush tropical mountain scenery of the coffee region not only evokes a picture postcard paradise that is uniquely Colombian, but it's also home to the country’s most important export: coffee!
The region is filled with picturesque pueblos, every single one of them worth visiting, but none are quite as must-see as the charming colonial town of Salento, a regional hub for tourism and also the gateway to the magical Valle de Cocora (Cocora Valley).
Mountainous and densely forested, the Eje Cafetero has an abundance of spectacular scenery and is a haven for outdoors enthusiasts. One of the most epic hikes in the entire country, the full day jaunt through the Valle leads you past awe-inspiring stands of Quindío Wax Palm (Ceroxylon quindiuense), which is not only the tallest palm species on earth but is also Colombia’s national tree. But the Valle is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to raw natural beauty here.
And of course, there’s the coffee. The country’s best coffee farms are here, and some of them also double as rustic, boutique country resorts. Visitors can stop in to try coffee, visit the plantations, and learn about its production.
To do coffee country justice, give yourself at least a few days to explore the greater region and get off the beaten path.
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Table of Contents
What is the Eje Cafetero
Where is the Eje Cafetero
Why visit
Best time to visit
How long to spend
How to get there
Where to stay
Places to visit
Things to do
What is the Eje Cafetero
If you’ve ever enjoyed a steaming cup of deeply aromatic and full-flavored Colombian coffee, you’re probably at least technically already a bit familiar with the Eje Cafetero, or at least with something from there!
Sometimes known as the “coffee triangle” or the zona cafetera (coffee zone), the Eje Cafetero is a large area of Central Colombia that comprises four regions (departamentos): Caldas, Quindío, Risaralda, and Tolima. The largest regional cities are Pereira, Armenia, and Manizales, but they’re typically of little interest to travelers, serving mostly as transport hubs. The most famous town in coffee country is Salento, which sits adjacent to the lovely Valle de Cocora (Cocora Valley), known for its tremendously tall wax palms.
On top of being an economic powerhouse known for producing some of the highest quality coffee in the world, it’s also an exceedingly picturesque area and one of the country’s prime tourist attractions.
The Eje Cafetero is mostly rural, although each department within it has its own small capital city. Besides enjoying the region’s natural attractions and visiting the coffee farms themselves, it’s the historic pueblos, many built during the colonial period and still preserving a traditional agrarian way of life, that are a strong part of the draw.
In fact, the region is so unique that UNESCO named it the “Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia” and recognized it as a World Heritage Site back in 2011.
Where is the Eje Cafetero
Located in the central-Western part of Colombia, the Eje Cafetero lies about midway between the cities of Medellin and Cali, and about 260 kms (160 miles) due west of Bogota.
Its convenient location between these three major cities means that it’s easy and convenient to visit on almost any trip to Colombia. If you’re traveling overland throughout Colombia, it’s pretty likely that at some point you’ll pass through coffee country even if you didn’t plan to.
Even if you’re on the Caribbean coast, it’s still easy to get here via direct flights from Cartagena to the city of Pereira,
Although it’s technically in the Andes, most of the region lies in the low foothills and in the lush valleys that they cradle. The countryside is rugged and mountainous, but the climate is idyllic and the vegetation verdant and tropical.
The town of Salento itself is located in the Quindío department, which boasts the only city in the region, Armenia, to have an international airport. Salento sits at an elevation of about 6,000 feet above sea level and on a plateau above the Quindío River valley. It is right next to the Nevados National Park, a huge swath of protected Andean wilderness of which the famous Valle de Cocora is just a small part.
Why visit
Visiting the Eje Cafetero is a full immersion into one of the world’s most fascinating traditional agrarian cultures. Small and boutique coffee farms that use sustainable and cutting-edge cultivation practices are an absolute delight to pop into, and they provide an educational experience that will leave you forever looking at your morning cup of coffee with a new appreciation.
While there are a few cities in the region, they’re fairly small and not of major interest to travelers. Instead, where Coffee country shines is in its sleepy little villages that offer visitors a glimpse into a side of local life that is starkly different from what you find in Colombia’s booming cities. Here, life moves slowly and with a rhythm and cadence not too dissimilar from centuries past.
Nestled among the fertile valleys of Colombia’s Cordillera Central (central Andean Mountain range), the region is also a nature lover’s dream come true. There are excellent hikes, hidden waterfalls, hot springs, and great swimming spots all throughout the area.
For me, the Eje also makes for one of the most rewarding road trips in the entire country, as winding through the country roads, marveling at the scenery, and stopping to eat at local fruit and food stands along the way is always an endless delight.
The town of Salento, with its busy main square and brightly painted historic center (which is itself a UNESCO world heritage site), is one of the most charming small towns on the planet. It’s also kind of an odd and unexpected place – high-end Colombian cuisine, a cosmopolitan nightlife scene, and hip cafes coexist alongside traditional bakeries, simple bars, and humble eateries in what is a fairly rural and remote part of the country. The unexpected combination gives visitors a bit of the best of both worlds when in town.
As always in Colombia, I find that it’s often the people themselves that end up stealing the show, becoming the highlight of a trip here. And in this particularly traditional and friendly part of the country, that is almost guaranteed to be the case.
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Best time to visit
Both Salento specifically and most of the surrounding Eje Cafetero in general have gorgeous year-round climates that the locals call “eternal spring”. Because the region is so close to the equator, temperatures vary by only a degree or so throughout the year. And its middle ground elevation – not high enough in the mountains to be cold, nor so low as to be hot and humid -means it's almost always in the mid 70s (Fahrenheit).
Despite this, there are distinct rainy seasons from March to May, and from October to December, that can dramatically affect the quality of your visit.
June through September -Best time to visit
From June through September, the Eje Cafetero experiences its lowest average rainfall, usually less than two inches per month. Bright sunny days provide good weather for hiking and road tripping and allow for exploring the many coffee farms in their full glory.
April and October – Months to avoid
In both April and again in October, the Eje Cafetero can get up to eight inches of rain in a single month. This can drown out all dreams of hiking the Valle de Cocora or even taking a pleasant road trip!
January and February – Cooler but sunny
In January and February the region usually experiences a break from the rain that pours down in the months before and after, with rainfall averages falling to just 1.5 inches per month. Because there are significantly fewer tourists during this period it’s a great time to visit.
How long to spend
With so much worth doing in the region, 10 days to 2 weeks is probably actually the ideal time to spend, but even 4-5 days will give you enough time to get a decent introduction and go beyond just the highlights. With 4-5 days, you have time to do the major hikes, explore Salento, visit a coffee farm, and maybe even soak in some hot springs, all without feeling pressed for time.
If you’ll be here for 5 days, you’re probably best off just basing yourself in Salento and doing some day trips to the surrounding region. However, you could also split your time between Salento and the city of Manizales, from which you are in easy reach of some great coffee farms.
If you have 10 days, you should plan on doing a bit of a road trip, staying no more than 2 nights in any one location.
Dedicate your first two days to checking out Salento and hiking in the Valle de Cocora. The hike takes a full day and Salento itself is worth a day’s visit.
After, make your way to Quindio and the Botanical gardens, where you should plan on spending just a quick day. From here, check out the small city of Manizales, where you have some great views and good nightlife. I’d just spend a day here before heading on for a few days in the countryside visiting the coffee plantations in Caldas and Risaralda.
Finish up your trip with a visit to to the pueblo of Salamino, and then a soak in the hot springs of nearby Santa Rosa del Cabal.
How to get there
Even though the Eje Cafetero is a rural area and not very close to any major Colombian city, it’s still easy to get to. This is thanks to Colombia’s modern highway system and the small but well-connected El Eden International Airport in the city of Armenia, which is served by all domestic airlines as well as major international carriers including Spirit.
The cities of Manizales and Pereira also have airports with domestic connections.
By Air
If coming directly from the United States, the easiest way to get to the Eje Cafetero is to fly direct from Fort Lauderdale, Florida to Armenia, Colombia.
Spirit Airlines runs direct, daily, low-cost flights between the two cities, that are really a steal. Flights to Armenia are often less than $200 USD each way if booked ahead, and the journey takes less than 4 hours.
Bogota to Armenia: Direct daily flights from Colombia’s capital to Armenia are also inexpensive and offered by a variety of national airlines including Avianca, Wingo, and Latam. Expect to pay $50-$100 USD one way.
Medellin to Armenia: Colombia’s second largest city also offers daily direct flights to Armenia via Avianca. Prices are around $65 USD one way.
By Bus
Bogota to Salento: The bad news is that there are no direct buses from Colombia’s capital to Salento. The good news, though, is that are very frequent buses (every hour, 24 hours a day) from Bogotá to Armenia, from where it’s an easy 45-minute ride into Salento via local bus. The trip costs $30-$40 depending on the bus line and takes about 10 hours.
Medellin to Salento: From Colombia’s second city to Salento, it is possible to take a direct bus. The 7-hour ride departs hourly and costs around $20 USD.
By Car
I think visiting the Eje Cafetero by car is an excellent option, especially since the scenery here is so profoundly awe-inspiring and there are so many little towns and coffee plantations to visit. This is not something that I say about most parts of Colombia, where I usually specifically recommend not driving. Here in the coffee region, though, having your own car really is the best way to explore the area.
Car rentals are available in Bogota, but that means you’d have to make the 8 hour drive up and over the cordilerra central to get to Salento and the Eje Cafetero. I believe a better option is renting a car in Armenia or even Manizales, a pretty mountaintop mini city that is the capital of the Caldas department and is surrounded by some of Colombia’s top coffee farms.
Where to stay
When visiting the Eje Cafetero, I recommend that you begin in Salento to be smack dab in the middle of the action – everything from tour companies to some of the region's top restaurants are located here.
As you move around the Eje Cafetero, the town of Santa Rosa del Cabal makes a good base for visiting hot springs, while Manizales is a good jumping off point for exploring the coffee farms in the department of Caldas.
If you plan to road trip around the region (or at least hop around for a week or more, regardless of whether you’ll be driving), pleasant little towns like Filandia and Salamina have a good selection of guesthouses and are good stopping points. Many coffee farms also have guest houses, ranging from rustic to boutique, and staying at them can be quite pleasant.
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Best places to visit
Valle de Cocora
This verdant valley and its palm trees have come to symbolize the entire region, and it really is beautiful. The famous all-day hike through the wax palms and into the verdant mountains of the Sierra Nevado National Park is a must do for any visitor to the area. Although there are tons of tours available from Salento, I recommend doing this one without a guide as it's easy to get to and relatively straightforward.
Salento
Simply strolling the picture-perfect streets of this magical pueblo is one of this area’s highlights. Make sure to try the coffee at Café Jesus Martin, run by a former coffee farmer who helped put the region on the international map. I always stop by the plaza in the evening to chat with the locals over live music.
Filandia
Located just a half hour north of Armenia, this perfectly preserved colonial pueblo is like a trip back in time. I love simply drinking a cup of local coffee in the main plaza and watching local life move by at a snail's pace.
The Botanical Garden
Constructed in the shape of a giant butterfly, the Jardin Botanico del Quindío contains 1,500 species of butterflies and hundreds of bird species native to the Eje Cafetero. It’s located in Armenia.
Manizales
Built right on a mountaintop and sporting panoramic views in every direction, Manizales is the closest thing the Eje Cafetero has to a real city. Its historic downtown holds a massive gothic cathedral, tons of traditional cafes, and even a street lined with tango halls.
Santa Rosa de Cabal
Crystaline waterfalls rush into pools of steaming mineral water at this hot spring resort town located about midway between Manizales and Armenia.
The Nevados National Park
The 14,000-acre Parque Natural de los Nevados is a massive outdoor wonderland just waiting to be explored by intrepid adventures. It’s home to six snowcapped volcanos, several over 5,000 meters (16,000 feet) in height.
Pijao
Pijao is a quiet little town of about 5,000 in the Quindio department. It has much of the charm of Salento - colorful colonial architecture, a small town vibe, amazing access to the outdoors, and easy reach to lots of coffee farms - but without any of the crowds. If you’re looking for a break from busy and touristy Salento, Pijao is a great place to spend a couple of days. It’s about 2 hours from Salento, and reachable by bus.
Salamina
Another postcard-worthy colonial pueblo bustling with true coffee culture, Salamina is located in Caldas in a verdant valley between towering mountains.
Parque del Café
This coffee themed amusement park is a great place for traveling families to check into. From roller coasters to a working coffee farm, there is much to do and learn here.
Termales el Otoño
This lovely hotel and hot spring complex is located right on the outskirts of Manizales, making it easy to squeeze in after a long day of visiting coffee farms.
Things to do in the Eje Cafetero
Visit a coffee farm
I think visiting a coffee plantation (finca in Spanish) is one of the top highlights of any trip to Colombia, something akin to wine tasting in France. Here are some of my top picks:
Hacienda Venecia: Located just a half hour outside of Manizales, this lush estate grows premium beans that are exported to boutique cafes in Europe. A variety of coffee tours are available to the public and guests can also spend the night at one of the onsite cabins.
Las Acacias: Nestled in the green mountains just a one hour walk from Salento, or 15 minutes in a Jeep, this small family run coffee farm is the real deal experience. I love their onsite café, which prepares their own homegrown and roasted beans in dozens of different ways.
Finca del Café: For those that want to truly immerse themselves in Colombian café culture, the Finca del Café offers rooms in an onsite café and several different tours and educational opportunities to learn about how coffee is grown and processed. It’s located just outside of Santa Rosa del Cabal.
Horseback Riding
Salento offers several different ways to explore the surrounding mountains, including the Valle de Cocora, by horseback. Plenty of info can be found at the tour shops around the main plaza.
Hiking
The Eje Cafetero has many outstanding hiking opportunities besides the Valle de Cocora including simple jaunts in the cloud forests of the Eco Parque los Yarumos in Manizales and serious summiting adventures on the 17,457-foot high Nevado del Ruiz, also located near Manizales.
Jeep tours
I don’t think there is anything quite like exploring the countryside of the Eje Cafetero by Jeep, which are known locally as “Willys” and are still used by coffee farmers all over the region. Modeled after 1940s era US army jeeps, these open-air vehicles can be rented in any major town and are used for a wide variety of tours in the region. You can also hire a driver/guide to take you around for very reasonable rates.
Go to a festival
There is always some local festival going on in the coffee region, especially during the sunny seasons. But the largest and most famous are the Feria de Manizales which happens in January and takes over the entire city, and the Carnaval del Diablos (Devil’'s Carnival) in Rio Sucio, which only takes place every other year, also in January, and is considered one of the major carnival celebrations in the entire country.
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