A Local’s Guide to Travel in Istria, Croatia
Welcome to Istria, a hidden-away region in northwestern Croatia that presents a delightful combination of rustic charm, picturesque medieval towns, gorgeous beaches and nature, and delicious local cuisine.
Istria boasts a lovely coastline with pretty beaches and a crystal clear sea, backed by a bucolic countryside of fortified hilltop towns, olive groves and vineyards, and more hiking and biking trails than you could visit in a lifetime. No wonder it’s often called the "Croatian Tuscany"!
Not short on culture or history either, Istria is well-known for its excellent cuisine and wines, and having been inhabited for almost all eras of human history, it’s also filled with world-class monuments and historical sites.
And with all of that packed into an area smaller than the U.S. state of Rhode Island, you’ll have everything you could want in a vacation destination right at your doorstep!
Add into the mix that Istria sees nowhere near the level of crowds that Croatia’s more famous Dalmatian Coast receives, and even a summertime visit here can be enjoyed without being packed shoulder to shoulder with fellow tourists.
Ready to learn more? Let’s dig in!
Table of Contents
Let’s plan your itinerary!
Being from Istria, I’m admittedly biased, but I think it’s one of the most special places on earth. This is a region where you can still get a truly authentic taste of Croatia (and Slovenia!) and a visit here is often the unexpected highlight of any trip.
So, if you could some local help figuring out a great plan for your visit, consider scheduling a Croatia travel consultation with me!
These are one-hour Zoom calls where we can chat about the trip you’re planning and I’ll share my tips and advice, answer your travel questions, and help you perfect your itinerary.
How long to spend in the region
Although you could spend months exploring all of the hidden places in Istria, visitors usually spend about a week here, and that’s really about the right amount of time.
Istria is a small region where even an extended weekend allows for a road trip to multiple lovely destinations, so if you have a full week, you can see and do a quite a lot.
In your first five days you should be able visit all the major coastal cities and discover the main points of interest in the interior. Then, your last two days will be open, giving you time to hit the beach, go hiking, or sample local wine in the vineyards.
Now, if you don’t have a full week, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t plan a visit here. Even 3 or 4 days is enough time to get a taste for the region. In this case, I would suggest doing what vacationing Croats or guests from nearby countries do: choose one part of Istria as your base and spend your time exploring and enjoying that area.
Doing this will let familiarize yourself with the area and get to know its heritage, culture, customs, and gastronomy, rather than rushing to cover the entire peninsula in just a few days.
So, with anything from 3 days to a full week, you can expect to have a marvelous time in Istria.
What to see and do in Istria
Istria is filled with fantastic places to visit, and while most travelers tend to explore only along the coast, I really recommend heading inland, where you’ll discover a very different side of this region.
If you’re looking for specific activities to enjoy, here are a few of the things that I personally love doing when in Istria:
Visit the charming hilltop towns of Central Istria: Motovun, Hum, and Grožnjan (among countless others)
Relax in the ancient seaside cities of Pula, Rovinj, Poreč, and Labin
Discover the lovely, empty beaches of Southern Istria
Hike Mount Učka and Ćićarija
Hunt for truffles! The town of Buzet is especially famous for this delicacy.
Go deep underground in the Baredine Cave
Taste locally made prosciutto, cheese, and pasta dishes (everywhere!)
Sample Malvazija and Teran wines
Go cycling in the countryside and along the Parenzana Cycling Path
Head back in time and walk amongst Roman ruins. Pula’s Arena is the most impressive remnant of Roman rule in Istria, but you’ll find traces of this great civilization all throughout the region
Take a boat tour and cruise down the Lim Channel, a fjord-like waterway in western Istria
Best places to visit
Now, in terms of where to visit, there are endless options, but you probably don’t have unlimited time, so I’ve tried to narrow down my list to a reasonable number of my favorite cities, towns, sites, and natural areas all throughout Istria.
Here they are:
1. Grožnjan
Photo: Arne Müseler / www.arne-mueseler.com, CC BY-SA 3.0 DE, via Wikimedia Commons
About an hour inland from many of Istria’s most famous beaches, sits the medieval town of Grožnjan - the city of artists and music.
On arrival, pass through the city’s stone gates and step into a completely different world where you will feel transported back in time. Here, the primary means of transportation is the bicycle, and the (un)official currency is a love of art.
Grožnjan’s streets are like an open-air gallery, filled with art and beautiful architecture all around you. You will find artists’ galleries, shops, restaurants, and cafes all over town, so be prepared to stroll leisurely, popping in and out of the various establishments.
Grožnjan especially comes alive in the late spring and in July and August, when music academies for young people take place there, and art; dance; drama; and painting workshops are held in the town.
If you’re interested in the arts, there’s nowhere better to visit in all of Croatia.
2. Rovinj
Rovinj is the most romantic of the Istrian towns and it is a city of colorful facades where almost every house has its own story to tell. They say that the beauty of Rovinj often leaves a lasting impression, so the connection with it stretches back for generations.
Visitors should explore the charming old part of the city, get lost in its alleys admire its homes perched on the edge of the sea, and relax on the beaches and archipelago of islets just offshore.
The Church of St. Euphemia’s bell tower dominates the city, and it is one of the most beautiful representatives of baroque architecture in Istria. From the top of the tower, you’ll have magnificent views over Rovinj, and on extremely clear days you can even see the Alps!
For history buffs, according to archaeological findings, Rovinj was inhabited in prehistoric times, and the old town center began to develop in the 3rd century, so you will find plenty of historical sites to keep you interested.
3. Motovun
Motovun, a gorgeous medieval town perched atop a high hill, is most famous for its eponymous film festival, which brings thousands of tourists there every year.
However, even before the festival began here, Motovun was beloved for its peaceful village life and well-preserved Mediterranean architecture.
You’ll stare in disbelief when you first see the town off in the distance, and if its charm doesn’t conquer you immediately, it will surely win you over as you smell the scent of their famous truffles wafting out from the many excellent local restaurants.
4. Pula
With a population of just over 50,000 residents, Pula is the largest city in Istria, and it’s also one of the region’s most beautiful and famous places.
This is an ancient city that has been inhabited for thousands of years, and the ambiance and architecture are spectacular. Simply put, Pula is a feast for the eyes and just wandering around aimlessly is a pleasure.
The most famous site in town is the imposing Roman Arena, and basically every visitor begins their sightseeing from here. The town is compact, so you can easily explore most of it on foot, but for a nice introduction to all of the main attractions, including those a bit outside of the center, there’s a touristic sightseeing bus that that departs from in front of the arena and goes all over the city.
During the ride, you’ll pass by the Naval Cemetery on Stoja, see the gallery of the Sacred Heart on De Ville's Ascent, pass the Venetian castle, the Zerostrasse underground tunnels, and many other sites. You’ll also have access to an audio guide which provides some nice information on the city and its attractions.
The bus ride is a nice way for you to get your bearings and decide what you want to explore more closely.
But Pula is not just about historical sights: there are also tons of cafes and fantastic restaurants, and gorgeous beaches in the south of the city. If you’re looking for somewhere that has a bit of everything, Pula might be it.
5. Hum
Photo: Sheeba Samuel, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
There’s a famous Croatian legend that says that giants built the cities in the Mirna Rivery Valley, and that they threw their leftover stones on top of a nearby hill. Supposedly, those same stones helped to create the town of Hum.
Whether you believe the story or not, today, Hum is best known as the "smallest city in the world", with only about 30 inhabitants. So, what can you do there?
Explore its two cobblestone streets (yes, there are only two streets!), try the famous brandies that the town is known for (especially the mistletoe-based Biska), and walk along the Glagolitic Alley, which is a 7 kilometer-long road between Hum and the town of Roč that is dotted with 11 stone sculptures that honor the traditional Croatian Glagolitic script.
6. Fažana
Photo: Severin.stalder, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Fažana is a lovely coastal city with a picturesque old town centre filled with beautiful churches and squares, stone-paved alleys, and terraced houses. The city also has a lovely seaside promenade, which is the perfect place for a stroll.
Known since the Roman days for its former amphora factory, this is a town with a lot of history, and you should be sure to check out the parish churches of St. Cosma and St. Damian which date back to the 15th century.
If visiting in summer, the Fažana riviera abounds in beautiful beaches, so you will never be short on places to swim and soak up the sun. Fažana is also the main port to the Brijuni Islands National Park, where you’ll find Roman ruins, wildlife, and the former residence of Marshal Tito.
While there are many cultural events hosted throughout the year, the "Sardine Festival" in August, dedicated to the tradition of salting and preserving this fish is an especially fun event to participate in.
Connect with Primož, our Croatia local expert, for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
7. Rabac and Labin
Rabac
Labin. Photo: Alessandro Vecchi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Owing to the beauty of its beaches, lagoons, and untouched nature, Rabac turned from a small fishing village into a tourist hotspot and the lifeblood of the east coast of Istria. Today, it is the pearl of the Kvarner region.
It is legitimately difficult to take your eyes off some of the exquisite beaches surrounding Rabac, but there is also equally beautiful greenery nearby that invites you to discover it.
Rabac itself doesn’t necessarily have a ton of historical sites that you’ll be interested in, but the main city gate of Saint Flor, from the 16th century, and the town’s folk museum, which was formerly a baroque palace, are both well worth checking out.
Rabac is also a hotspot for entertainment, events, and music festivals, ranging from electronic, traditional, klapa music, and folk.
If you choose to stay here, be sure to visit the nearby hilltop town of Labin, which is known for is long industrial heritage, namely mining. For a neat experience, visitors can enter the mines and head deep underground for a tour.
8. Kotli
A section of the Mirna River outside of Kotli. Photo: Croq, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Kotli is true hidden gem in the Istrian interior. This is an old village characterized by its stone houses which are known for “kotli” - water-shaped cauldron depressions in the stones.
The entire village is a protected rural environment, and it offers an authentic look at the genuine Istrian lifestyle from the past. In town, you can check out the St. Bartholomew church, the blacksmith’s workshop, and the old mill.
Nearby, the Kotli Waterfalls, located on the Mirna River are a very pretty site, and going for a stroll along the riverbank is a lovely way to spend a relaxing afternoon.
For a taste of rustic rural charm, you can’t do better than Kotli.
9. Brijuni islands
The Brijuni archipelago consists of 14 islands and islets off the southwestern coast of Istria, and the entire area has been a national park since 1999.
The main island of the archipelago, and probably the only one you will visit, is Veliki Brijun (Big Brijun). Here, you can enjoy a zoo, dinosaur excavation point, archaeological findings, and a museum dedicated to the various statesmen who have visited these islands.
Namely, the island of Vanga is the official summer residence of Croatian presidents. Before that, it was the home of the villa of Yugoslavian strongman Josip Broz Tito. He often welcomed foreign delegations and celebrities to the island. Since Yugoslavia had many connections to African and Asian countries between 1960 and 1990, Tito was gifted many exotic animals by his visitors, and those animals’ descendants still live on in Veliki Brijun.
A safari-style train takes you through open-air spaces where you’ll spot zebras, elephants, lamas, and other animals.
You can learn about the archipelago’s history in a small museum, which is interesting enough, but visitors are typically much more impressed by the island’s archaeological site which has ruins from ancient olive oil production. Even today, you can admire the “Old Olive Tree”, which at 1,600+ years old (and still fruiting!), is one of the most ancient olive trees in the Mediterranean. Apart from this one tree, Brijuni boasts beautiful flora throughout the island.
So, what else can you ask for? Well, what about dinosaurs?! Some 160 million years ago, Theropods and other beautiful creatures were tourists on these islands, leaving their tracks in four places on Veliki Brijun. Some 200 footprints of primarily carnivorous dinosaurs tell a story dating back to the dawn of time.
10. Parenzana Cycling Path
A stretch of road along the cycling path. Photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
The Parenzana Cycling Path traces the historic route of the Parenzana Railway that once connected Istria's coastal towns in Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. Beginning in the charming coastal town of Poreč, this 123-kilometer-long cycling trail ends in Trieste in Italy, after passing through countless beautiful valleys, green hills and forests, medieval towns, vineyards, and olive groves in Croatian Istria.
As you pedal along the well-marked path, you’ll pass by pretty towns like Grožnjan, known for its artistic community and medieval architecture, and Buje, perched atop a hill with panoramic views of the countryside. The trail continues through tunnels and over viaducts, providing a glimpse into the railway's past and a chance to see what was some very impressive infrastructure at the time.
A ride along the path is an opportunity to see some beautiful countryside and soak in the true flavor and character of Istria.
11. Pazin
Pazin Bridge. Photo: Szeder László, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Pazin, a beautiful old town perched perilously on the edge of a massive cliff, is a must-see destination for any lover of nature, literature, or history. Pazin is considered to be the heart of Istria, and it is truly located in a stunning natural setting.
The town's most iconic landmark is Pazin Castle, perched on the edge of a 130-meter-deep chasm. The castle houses the Ethnographic Museum of Istria, which provides a nice overview of the region’s traditions and history. Other points of interest include the Church of St. Nicholas, which has lovely frescoes, the Pazin Bridge, which spans the chasm of the cliffs and offers breathtaking views, and a local market held on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Just outside the town, you can explore the Pazin Cave, which offers tours to its underground lakes and striking geological formations, and also go ziplining (right next to the cave).
An interesting little factoid is that there’s a novel, “Mathias Sandorf”, by the famous writer Jules Verne that takes place here.
12. Vodnjan
Vodnjan is a city of contrasts. It is a place with a real reverence for history, and is filled with stately old stone houses, narrow cobblestone streets (Trgovačka Street is the longest one in Istria!), and mysteriously mummified saints.
But it’s also home to a vibrant arts community and the town is bursting with more than 40 murals, which are in all different styles and painted on buildings all over town.
So, you’ll see saints in the town church, and will then step outside and be face to face with some cool new street art. It’s an interesting vibe!
Vodnjan is primarily known for its many religious relics which are kept in the parish church of St. Blasius. There’s a thorn from the crown of Jesus, a piece of the Virgin's veil, a particle of the cross of Christ, and “mummified” saints. A real puzzle for scientists, none of the saints have been embalmed or hermetically sealed. Look it up!
Elsewhere in town, the striking town square was built int the beginning of the 19th century after the demolition of the town’s castle. Nowadays, the spacious square is surrounded by impressive buildings, especially the Neo-Gothic-Venetian style Municipal Palace.
In the surrounding countryside, you’ll find tons of biking paths and hiking trails, and there are olive trees and groves everywhere. Vodnjan sits in the centre of an area known for its olive oil production, so be sure to visit local producers and sample their wares. They also have great prosciutto here and a few very nice wineries.
13. Poreč
Sitting right along the shore, Poreč is one of the most popular Istrian towns and it sees many tourists every year. It’s seaside setting isn’t the only spectacular draw though: take even just a few steps around the town and you’ll quickly appreciate the beautiful Venetian architecture.
Porec has a long history, and it's streets, alleys, and stately buildings bely the centuries-old history of this magnificent place.
The town’s star attraction is the 6th century St. Euphrasius Basilica, which is under UNESCO protection and is an architectural masterpiece. Inside, take some time to admire the intricate Byzantine mosaics. And for great views of the town, countryside, and sea, climb the bell tower and enjoy a panormaic vista.
In addition to the Basilica, explore the Great Temple of Neptune, the Istrian Parliament, the House of Two Saints, and the town’s medieval ramparts and towers.
For sea lovers, Poreč’s coastline is dotted by hidden coves as well as family-friendly sandy beaches. Offshore, you can take boat trips to nearby islands and the Lim Fjord.
Back on land, the surrounding villages are famous for their good wineries, excellent olive oil, and old school “konobas” (taverns). Be sure to sample truffle-infused dishes, eat fresh seafood, and visit some wineries and olive groves.
14. Buje
Photo: Wolfgang Sauber, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The small hilltop town of Buje in northwestern Istria is a very romantic and picturesque place to visit. Perched high above the surrounding fields and vineyards, Buje affords gorgeous views almost everywhere you walk in town.
Start your visit in the main square, where the impressive church of St. Servulus, built on the site of the former Roman Temple of Jupiter, is the main attraction.
Next to the church is a 50-meter-high bell tower built in the 16th century, which throughout history, served as a scout and sentry for the entire area. Because of this, Buje was deservedly called the "guardian of Istria".
At the church of St. Martin, you’ll find a cemetery which has been turned into a memorial park. Here, stop and savor the glorious view. The image will stay with you!
There aren’t really any other major sights worth mentioning, so just go for a wander and enjoy the pleasant town and its medieval architecture.
For beer lovers, make a quick trip to the nearby town of San Mauro, where you can sample great beer at their craft brewery.
15. Momjan
Photo: Fraxinus Croat, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
Also in the northwest of Istria and near to Buje, Momjan is another pretty little village. Well off the standard tourist trail, especially for foreign visitors, Momjan has become a bit of a mecca for food and wine lovers who flock to the nearby Kozlović Winery and Konoba Marino.
Momjan’s main attraction is its (mostly ruined) castle, whose construction began in the first half of the 13th century. The castle’s former owners were known their fickleness and they often sold their loyalty to different would-be rulers for positions and power. Over the centuries the town changed hands so often that the castle was thought to be haunted.
If you visit, be sure to try the Momjan Moscatto wine which is autochthonous to the area. You’ll find lots of good wineries nearby, as well as olive groves and scenic country lanes.
16. Buzet
Photo: Aconcagua, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Like most Istrian towns in the interior, Buzet sits neatly perched atop a hill (a 450 foot tall one!). Apart from its lovely natural setting, the town itself doesn’t have much to talk about though.
Nearby you’ll find the famous Trail of Seven Waterfalls and Ćićarija Mountain, which are famous destinations for nature lovers.
Buzet is also known as the “town of truffles” because the delicacy grows in relative abundance along the Mirna River which is close by. You can even try truffle hunting yourself, guided by the local association.
17. Kažun Park
Kažun Park, about 10 kilometers north of Pula and just east of Vodnjan, is an interesting outdoor museum where you can see “Kažun”, which are small, circular one-room stone shelters with conical roofs that are particular to Istria. These structures served as shelter for farmers and shepherds as well as storage depots for tools.
Don’t expect to spend a ton of time here, but it’s a legitimately interesting sight and if you’re in the area, is definitely worth stopping at. If nothing else, it makes for a great photo op.
18. Dvigrad
BiserkaNCroatia, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
The medieval ruins of Dvigrad sit in central Istria about 20 kilometers east of Rovinj. Largely lost to the surrounding forest, the ruins are still pretty extensive, and the “town” is surrounded by double defensive walls that are interconnected by city gates, and there are more than 200 buildings in various states of disrepair inside.
This is a fun site to explore and it makes for a nice stop on a drive or a quick visit from somewhere nearby.
There is also a legend about Dvigrad which concerns the buried treasure of the infamous British pirate Henry Morgan. Morgan fell afoul of the British, who pursued him until he escaped to the Gulf of Lim (in Istria). He then supposedly discovered Dvigrad, which had already been abandoned, and hid his treasure there. Who knows, maybe you’ll find it!
19. Učka Nature Park
In northeastern Istria, Učka Nature Park is a rugged, remote, and beautiful natural area that calls out to adventurous travelers.
There are tons of hiking trails here, and you can undertake treks to any of the following peaks: Žbevnica, Veliki Planik, Sisol, Brajkov, Županj, and Vojak. Vojak is known for its stone tower, built in 1911, from where you’ll have outstanding views.
At the northwestern edge of Uçka, be sure to visit the impressive Vela Draga canyon valley, which is characterized by its sheer cliffs and unique rock formations.
If you want to escape from humanity for a little bit, head out to Učka and relax in a wonderful remote mountain setting. The park is also easily visited as a day trip from the coast though.
20. Baredine Cave
Рустам Абдрахимов, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped from original
In northwestern Istria, not far from Poreč, the Baredine cave is a must-visit attraction.
Visitors can descend into the cave along a 300-meter-long path that passes through five different chambers, each filled otherworldly calcite deposits, stalactites, stalagmites, and sigma. The visit ends at an underground lake, about 60 meters below the earth.
The actual total depth of the cave is 130 meters, but you can only reach the lower portions with professional equipment.
21. Lim Channel
Photo: Aconcagua, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Just north of Rovinj, the Lim Channel runs inland from the coast through the Lim Valley for 12 kilometers. It passes through spectacular scenery, including dramatic cliffs, and very closely resembles a fjord (it is actually a submerged karst canyon).
The water is pristine and there are boat tours from Rovinj that will take you on a cruise down the channel. If you’d prefer to get out into the surrounding nature though, there are also hiking trails all throughout the region from where you can soak in the truly outstanding scenery while walking through lush forest.
Oysters and mussels are also farmed in the Channel’s waters, so you should most definitely seek out a restaurant serving up what will be some fresh seafood.
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How to get here
Istria is located in the far northwest of Croatia, quite a distance away from Dalmatia and many of the other main tourist destinations in the city. It may be (relatively) far away from the other places on your itinerary, but it is well worth the trip.
The Adriatic Sea surrounds the peninsula on three sides, and the north of the region is entirely bordered by Slovenia.
Pula, the largest city in the region has an international airport well connected to many European cities, most often via budget airlines or our national carrier, Croatia Airlines.
Most of the bigger cities in Istria, especially along the coast, are connected by bus with major European cities. Flixbus connects Istria with most of continental Europe, especially with Germany, Poland, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Italy, Belgium, France, Austria, Switzerland, and other countries. If you’re coming from elsewhere in Europe, you will have lots of buses to take you here.
Alternatively, if you plan to visit Istria from elsewhere in Croatia, it can be reached by car or bus from Rijeka in about 2 hours, Zagreb in 3.5 hours, and Dalmatia in 7-12 hours (depending on how far south you are). Within Croatia, Flixbus (www.flixbus.com) connects Istria with Rijeka, Zagreb and Dalmatia.
For longer distance journeys, all bus companies allow you to buy tickets online, as well as at the bus stations. Purchasing tickets in advance during the summer holidays is a good idea as the buses fill up quickly.
Throughout the year, you can expect 5-8 daily departures to and from Zagreb (same for Rijeka), 2-3 to and from Dalmatia, and 5-6 to and from European destinations.
In summer, a catamaran ferry runs from Pula to the Dalmatian city of Zadar once a day.
Where to stay - best bases
Istria is small and it’s geographically compact enough that you can visit just about everywhere from any other city or town. So, where you choose to base yourself should be less about location and more about the type of place that you want to stay in.
Poreç and Rovinj - for beaches, entertainment, and excitement
For a lively atmosphere and proximity to beaches, and especially if you won’t have a car, you’re best off staying in the coastal towns of Poreč or Rovinj. These are two very pleasant bigger towns/cities on the western coast of Istria and they have the best public transportation connections along the coast and inland.
Both cities have a handful of nice beaches in their immediate vicinity, and the surrounding towns and countryside have lots of wineries, farms, and olive groves for visitors to explore.
Inland villages - to avoid the (summer) crowds
Now, if you’re visiting in summer and don’t want to be surrounded by crowds, it’s best to stay away from the coastal cities and instead choose a base a bit inland, but not too far away. My suggestion would be to pick one of the many beautiful villages around Poreč and Rovinj, which are filled with charming, rustic accommodation.
Not only will staying there give you unique insight into the life of an Istrian village, but you will still be able to make trips to any other destination in Istria within an hour.
Transportation and getting around the region
By car
If you’re comfortable driving, rent a car for your visit to Istria. It’s as simple as that. Having the car will give you so much freedom to explore not only the coastal towns, but also the gorgeous Istrian countryside, the mountains, the forests, and the small hilltop towns in the middle of nowhere.
Istria is perfect for road trips and days spent bopping around from one place to the next, and to be able to do that, you really need a car.
The road system here is good, with well-maintained highways and local roads, and cities, towns, beaches, and the countryside in Istria are all well connected and mostly easy to reach. In the interior, you’ll have to deal with some narrower windy roads, but nothing crazy.
Many areas away from the coast are not really served by public transportation, and even for destinations that you can reach by public bus, the number of daily departures may not be frequent and you will lose tons of time waiting on buses, adjusting your schedule to fit their timetables, and making unnecessarily long journeys.
In short, rent a car!
Where to book your car rental
You’ll find most major international car rental agencies in Croatia as well as loads of local companies. Larger towns and those popular with tourists usually have rental offices, but sometimes you’ll have to go to the nearest decent-sized city in order to get a rental.
To check prices and book, I recommend using DiscoverCars. It’s a car rental website that includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
I use it myself and have always had good experiences.
Traveling by bus
Istria’s coastal cities are well connected by intercity bus lines. Croatian bus companies such as Brioni Pula (www.brioni.hr) and Arriva Rijeka (www.arriva.com.hr) run between Labin, Pula, Rovinj, Poreč, Umag, Pazin, and Buzet. During the summer, a few other companies add in additional routes, albeit with fewer departures.
Every major city in Istria has its own city and suburban bus line. They provide quick and easy transportation within the city itself, but also to nearby towns and some points of interest (beaches, natural areas) in the immediate vicinity of the city.
In Pula, it the local company is Pula Promet (www.pulapromet.hr), while in other places, it is the local lines of Arriva. The companies Brioni Pula and Arriva Rijeka primarily service local bus lines but they also have some routes to smaller inland cities.
Taking the (very limited) trains
While there is a train from Lupoglav, in the northeast of Istria, to Pula, the departures are very infrequent, and it’s generally not recommended unless you are a big time train enthusiast. This line is the only remaining part of the former Parenzana, a railway connecting the west coast of Istria with the interior, and today it is mostly a tourist attraction.
Best time to visit
The ideal time to explore Istria is during the entire period from April to October. This timeframe offers an excellent balance between pleasant weather and an abundance of outdoor activities, cultural festivals, and events.
Istria boasts a relatively moderate Mediterranean climate characterized by mild winters and hot, dry summers, with an annual average of 2400 sunny hours.
Thanks to its abundant sunshine, the Istrian coast and tourist resorts enjoy long days with ample sunlight hours, meaning that you can easily extend your days well into the evenings. From May through October, the sea along the Istrian coast is crystal clear, and it is perfect for swimming throughout this entire period.
July and August are the hottest months, but this period welcomes the gentle mistral, a refreshing sea breeze that blows inland from the sea, making temperatures more bearable.
Additionally, from spring through summer, there are many essential Istrian cultural festivals, concerts, theater performances, and presentations of living ethnographic heritage. All throughout this period, there is always an event or festival happening somewhere in Istria. It is a truly exciting time to visit the region!
Now, there are a few things to know about visiting during this period, especially the peak season in the middle of summer (July and August). In these two months, temperatures can soar above 38°C (100°F), so you need to be prepared for some heat. The sea maintains a comfortable 26°C (79°F), so is especially lovely to swim during this time, but you will be quite hot if away from the coast.
It’s also advisable to secure your accommodation, car rental, and tours/experiences well in advance, as many things will book out. Prices rise during this period as well, so you should prepare for significant increases in travel costs, especially in sought-after destinations.
Visiting in spring and fall
For a more serene and budget-friendly experience, consider visiting this oasis in late spring or early autumn. During this period, Istrians take great pride in the harvest of their exceptional gastronomic products, and you'll also encounter fewer tourists, resulting in lower prices for just about everything.
This is also the perfect time to go hiking, savor cheeses, olive oil, truffles, and prosciutto in agrotourism settings, and still sneak in some beach days! In fact, locals often begin swimming in the sea as early as May, and the pleasant weather extends well into October, meaning that you can enjoy a lovely time on the coast with a fraction of the crowds.
As you venture further into Istria's interior, the coastal climate gradually transitions to a continental one, and the countryside becomes filled with picturesque vineyards, ancient olive groves, dense evergreen maquis, meadows, fields, oak forests, and evergreen pines. Late spring or early fall is the perfect time to enjoy outdoor activities in inland Istria.
Visiting in winter
The winter season has its own unique appeal as well, particularly for those seeking a cozy, rustic experience in old rural homes with crackling fires in the fireplace. This time of year sees very few visitors, resulting in super affordable prices.
It's worth noting that some restaurants, especially along the coast, may close during the winter season, so if you choose to visit during this time, you should always call ahead to check opening hours.
My perfect one-week Istria itinerary
A full week is a really lovely amount of time to spend in Istria, as this gives you the opportunity to travel all throughout the region at a relaxed pace, and to stop wherever you want whenever you want.
You’ll be able to visit all of the major cities/towns and attractions, and will have time to get lost in the countryside, exploring rarely visited places that hide the true charm of the region. If you’ve got a week to spare, here’s what we’d recommend:
Days 1 & 2 - Umag and surroundings
Start your Istrian adventure with a visit to Umag - Croatia’s westernmost city. History lovers will especially enjoy Umag for its well-preserved town center, which is filled with noblemen’s houses from antiquity and medieval times.
Be sure to check out the impressive city walls and the City Museum, which has a nice collection of Roman artifacts.
About 9 kilometers out from Umag, in the small town of Savudrija, you’ll find a secluded lighthouse from the 1800’s which is part of an interesting old legend about a count and his forbidden love for a local woman.
The lighthouse is open to visitors, so you can climb the 36 meters up to the top and enjoy fantastic panoramic views. And if you’re interested in finding out what it’s like to actually live in a lighthouse, you can even book a night’s stay!
If visiting in summer or any time when it’s warm enough to swim or enjoy the sea, hop in the car and head out to the surrounding beaches. The Stella Maris Lagoon is especially good for families with children due to its many beach facilities, while Kanegra’s pebble beach is lovely, and you’ll be surrounded by trees which provide a nice escape from the summer sun.
There’s also a huge network of bicycle paths all around Umag and throughout the surrounding area, so rent a bike and enjoy leisurely rides through some of the prettiest countryside in Istria.
And if you happen to visit in mid July, the Croatia Open, a world-famous tennis tournament, will be going on, so you can catch a match and see some famous players.
Day 3 - Rovinj, Poreč and Novigrad
Rovinj, Poreč, and Novigrad are small romantic towns that will delight you with their Mediterranean atmosphere. Narrow stone streets, a relaxed lifestyle, and local seafood specialties are just some of the reasons why guests fall in love with these picturesque towns.
Rovinj, once a fishing town and today a popular tourist destination, charms with its colourful houses, which, together with the church of St. Euphemia, make a perfect picture for a postcard. Take a leisurely stroll through the old town, climb the bell tower of the church of St. Euphemia, and soak up the magnificence of the view before you.
During breaks from sightseeing, sit in a cafe by the sea or refresh yourself in one of the restaurants, taverns, or pizzerias scattered around Rovinj. Explore cycling paths of different lengths around Rovinj or visit the Valdaliso Diving Center in the Valdaliso camp, where you can attend diving courses in various languages.
Poreč is one of the most visited towns in Istria. At the season's peak, the number of inhabitants rises to 100,000. Therefore, everyone looking for a lot of interesting content on their vacation will not be disappointed with Poreč.
Partygoers will be delighted by the Rise Up Poreč Music Festival and Club MTV Europe Summerblast summer festival, which bring the world's biggest pop and electronic music stars. Throughout the summer, from June to September, Poreč Open Air - Festival of Life is held, a street festival consisting of street performances, circuses, open-air cinemas, and concerts by tribute bands of world-famous groups.
But in Poreč, it's not all about partying. The city also boasts a rich cultural heritage. Visit the Euphrasian Basilica, built in the 6th century, specific for its Byzantine characteristics. The value of the Euphrasian Basilica was also recognized by UNESCO in 1997 when it declared it a World Cultural Heritage.
Along with the basilica, walk through the city centre and see the fragments of the Temple of Neptune and the Great Temple; Marafor - the Roman forum and medieval walls that make the city dangerous.
Unlike Poreč, Novigrad has managed to preserve its peaceful Mediterranean atmosphere, which makes it ideal for all those who want to rest on their summer trip. However, the fact that it is a quiet town does not mean that it lacks content, especially in summer.
At the end of June or beginning of July, Parkfest is held, a music festival in several Novigrad parks. For a taste of local life, visit Novigrad in mid-August, when the town's festival, the Feast of St. Pelagius, the city's patron saint, takes place for three days. Listen to outdoor concerts, participate in local games, and eat local fish specialties.
Interesting and unusual manifestations are the Night of Street Magicians, that is, street artists who show their skills to passers-by on the Great Square, and the Lunasa Astro Party, which takes place on August 1, when the Celts once celebrated Lunasa - the first day of summer.
That evening, the street lights are turned off, and photos of celestial bodies are projected onto the town bell tower; you can buy an astrological souvenir or observe the sky with a telescope.
Day 4 - Pula
This 3,000-year-old city is the largest in Istria and is best known for its arena. The best-preserved example of ancient architecture, the Pula Arena, or amphitheatre is still used for big summer concerts by Croatian and international stars.
In addition to this imposing building, walking through the city centre, you will encounter other monuments from the Roman era, such as the Gates of Hercules, the Double Gate, the Temple of Augustus or the Arc de Triomphe of the Sergius, which give Pula a unique antique charm.
Children and adults will enjoy the Pula Aquarium, 3 kilometres from the centre, on the Austro-Hungarian fortress of Verudela in the bay of the same name. In addition to seeing more than 200 species of different marine animals (from species that inhabit the Adriatic to tropical ones) and learning something about them, be sure to visit the Sea Turtle Recovery Centre located within the Aquarium, whose employees take care of these extremely endangered animals.
If you want to learn more about the sea and marine life, you can sign up for numerous workshops organized by the Centre.
After hanging out with the sea animals, it's time to refresh yourself on the Hawaiian beach not far from the centre itself. Due to the short shallows, the beach is ideal for families with small children. Nearby is Histria Beach, awarded with the Blue Flag. It is also suitable for families with small children due to the large shade and various contents.
Day 5 - Brijuni National Park
Only 8 kilometres from Pula are located the magnificent Brijuni, a group of 14 islands and islets declared a national park in 1983. Board the boat in Fažana, and you will arrive in Brijuni in just 15 minutes.
Brijuni National Park offers a handful of content for visitors of all profiles. There is a Safari Park in Brijuni where, along with exotic llamas, zebras, and ostriches, you can see an Indian elephant, which Indian stateswoman Indira Gandhi gave to Yugoslavian statesman Tito.
Brijuni boast with cycling and walking paths that you can explore with expert guidance from October to May, while those who want to explore independently can walk or cycle along the Path of Positive Vibrations accompanied by the sounds of guitar and piano.
Archaeology enthusiasts in good shape can sign up for a four-hour tour of historical sites. From the Byzantine castrum to the church of St. Germans from the 15th century will introduce you to the rich past of these islands.
You can swim in Verige Bay, where a Roman villa once stood, the remains of which can still be seen and visited.
Days 6 & 7 - central Istria: Pazin, Motovun, and Hum
Tired of summer crowds and heat? Istria invites you to its interior, which amazes visitors with green hills with old forts, small towns (Hum – the smallest town in the world is located there), and charming vineyards. In addition, Central Istria is a real paradise for gourmets - Momjan muscat wine is produced there, and world-renowned truffles grow in the forests.
We recommend Pazin and its surroundings to sports fans and adventurers. Below the Pazin Castle from the 10th century is the Pazin Cave, which offers as many as three zip lines. You can also go down to the bottom of the pit, which you can explore with an expert guide. Bring long sleeves because the temperature in the pit is much lower than outside (about 15 degrees) and sports shoes. The Pazin Cave is open for visitors from May 1 to September 30.
Another cave you can visit is the Baredine cave, 6 kilometres from Poreč. If you want to see the cave inside, be prepared for more than 200 steps, for which you will need suitable footwear. The sightseeing itself takes about 40 minutes.
Before or after visiting the cave, visit the small museum where there is an exhibition of various archaeological finds and where you can learn interesting facts from the history of speleology.
After a lot of sightseeing, it's time to take a break. That is why there is a restaurant and a picnic area around the pit itself, and the youngest (and those who feel like it) can visit the animal farm, where they can see donkeys, ponies, turkeys, geese, and ducks.
Two hundred meters from the pit itself, an interesting exhibition of about twenty old tractors and agricultural machines (Tractor Story). It was made to indicate the importance these machines had at the beginning of the 20th century for this area, whose inhabitants were exclusively engaged in agriculture. The exhibition will also be interesting for children.
Even further inland are the towns of Motovun and Hum. Picturesque Motovun has become world-famous for the Motovun Film Festival, which takes place every summer and presents a selection of the world's best cinematography.
This small town with only five hundred inhabitants is located on a hill, so be prepared for a lot of hiking. If you come by car, you can park in the free parking lot below the city (you have to walk about 1 km uphill to the city) or in the paid parking lot at the entrance to the city.
Although small, Motovun, apart from the film festival, offers a lot of content, especially for those inclined to adventure. A unique opportunity is offered to those who decide to go paragliding on the slopes of Motovun, while those more inclined to adventures on the ground can explore two hiking trails (Motovun - Zamask and Zamask - Motovun) and three cycling trails (Oćni put, Stara ferata, Veli Jože) around Motovun.
A stay in Motovun will not be complete without climbing the city wall and witnessing one of the most beautiful sunsets in Croatia.
Set aside a part of the day for a trip to Hum, the smallest town in the world with only 21 inhabitants, two small streets, and a few houses. A stay in Hum will take you back to the Croatian Middle Ages when this town was the centre of Glagolitic culture. Monuments written in Glagolitic speak about that part of history, which you can find in the Church of the Assumption of Mary and the city museum.
In addition to the title of the smallest city in the world, Hum is also proud of its alcoholic drink - Hum Biska, which is made from white mistletoe, grappa, and four types of herbs.
Near Hum is the small town of Buzet, also known as the town of truffles. If you are a fan of this delicious delicacy or want to finally taste it, stop by Buzet in September when the Truffle Days are held. In addition to truffles, Buzet is also interesting for its medieval fortifications.
For lunch, we recommend to visit old-style taverns or agritourisms where you can enjoy rural atmosphere and exquisite cuisine!
Other suggested Istria itineraries - from 5 to 10 days
5-day itinerary
Day 1 – Rovinj & Poreč
Day 2 – Pula
Day 3 – Brijuni National Park
Day 4 – Central Istria (Motovun & Hum)
Day 5 – Umag, Buje & Momjan
7-day itinerary
Day 1 & 2 – Umag, Savudrija, Momjan & Buje
Day 3 – Rovinj, Poreč & Novigrad
Day 4 – Pula
Day 5 – Brijuni National Park
Day 6 & 7 – Pazin, Hum, and Central Istria
10-day itinerary
Days 1 & 2: Umag, Savudrija, Momjan & Buje
Days 3 & 4: Rovinj, Poreč & Novigrad
Day 4 – Brijuni National Park
Day 5 – Labin
Day 6 – Mount Učka, Boljun & Plomin
Days 8 & 9 – Pazin, Hum, Motovun, and Buzet
Day 10 – Grožnjan & Vižinada
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