7 Days in Emilia Romagna - One Week Road Trip Itinerary
If you ask me, Emilia-Romagna is one of the most exciting regions in Italy. This central Italian region is characterized by two distinct cultures, as it was born from the fusion of two different provinces, Emilia and Romagna.
Traveling around, you will notice it from the different dialects locals speak, the foods they eat, and their "vibe", which is more laid-back than in some other parts of Italy.
Besides cultural peculiarities, Emilia-Romagna offers incredible diversity in terms of landscapes. Within its borders, you will find the Appenine Mountains, forests, hills, and the beaches of the Adriatic Coast.
But there's more. In the region's veins run Etruscan and Ancient Roman origins, and the area further developed during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, with many of its cities being Italy's main political and power centers during these periods.
Boasting the oldest university in Europe, a strong manufacturing industry (luxury cars such as Ferrari and Lamborghini have their headquarters here), and a food tradition that counts products of excellence such as Tortellini, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Balsamic Vinegar, the reasons why you should visit Emilia-Romagna are truly endless.
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Table of contents
Where is Emilia Romagna
Best time to visit
How long to spend
Transportation and getting around
Is Emiliga Romagna expensive? Average costs
7-day Itinerary
Day 1: Bologna - explore our bustling capital city
Day 2: Dozza - visit a historic village and the charming Colli Bolognesi countryside
Day 3: Modena - great food, fast cars, and historic sites
Day 4: Parma - classic Emilia Romagna gastronomy
Day 5: Ferrara - explore the “City of the Renaissance”
Day 6: Ravenna - get your art and culture on
Day 7: San Leo and San Marino - day trip to another country!
Where is Emilia Romagna
Emilia Romagna region in red. Photo: TUBS, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Emilia Romagna is a region in northern Italy. It’s bordered by the Adriatic Sea on its east, Tuscany to the west, Lombardy and the Veneto to its north, and Le Marche to its south. Its capital is the city of Bologna, and it’s also home to many lovely medium-sized cities like Parma, Modena, Ravenna, Ferrara, and Reggio Emilia.
Emilia Romagna is one of Italy’s wealthiest regions and a major center of industrial production (Ferrari cars included…). It’s also known for being a gastronomic center, and the region of Italy with the best food. Iconic foods like Parmiggiano Reggiano (parmesan cheese), prosciutto di parma (parma ham/prosciutto), Aceto Balsamico di Modena (balsamic vinegar), Ragù Bolognese, and even tortellini, all come from here.
Most of Emilia Romagna is flat, lying in the Pianura Padana, or the Po River plains. Nearer to Tuscany, it starts to get hilly, with the Appenine mountains reaching up to 2,000 meters.
Best time to visit Emilia Romagna
The best time to visit Emilia-Romagna is unquestionably during the Spring and Fall. Both seasons are ideal as the temperatures are pleasant but neither too cold nor too hot, prices are reasonable for just about everything, and the cities aren't packed with international tourists or vacationing Italians (who have their time off work in July and August).
Visiting in Spring and Fall means mostly good weather, good prices, and an authentic glimpse of Emilia Romagna when the region has fully settled into its normal pace of daily life.
Visiting in Spring
In particular, Spring is my favorite time of the year to be in Emilia-Romagna. Besides having an extra hour of daylight, as clocks go forward in late March, the region’s countryside gets sparkly green, and flowers blossom everywhere, which makes the landscape even more beautiful.
In Spring, you can also taste delicious Easter products (for instance, the Colomba Pasquale, a panettone-like cake).
Visiting in Fall
If you’d prefer to travel in the Fall, the biggest perks during this time of year are that the weather is still pleasant (in the early part of the season anyways) and you can find great deals on hotels, car rentals, and inbound flights, as the summer tourist season has fully ended by this point.
You will also have many things to do after dinner: usually, theatrical season starts again in September, after the summer break.
Visiting in Summer
Now, if your vacation time only allows for a visit during the summer, this isn’t necessarily a bad time to be here. Yes, there will be crowds and the prices for just about everything will be higher, but Emilia Romagna has a nice coastline, so a summer visit allows you to combine days at the beach with countryside tours and city visits. Not too shabby.
Visiting in Winter
Winters are usually cold and humid, so you won't really enjoy your time outside walking around to visit the cities' monuments. From a strictly weather perspective, I think this is the worst time to visit Emilia Romagna.
However, winter deals on accommodation, flights, and attractions are the best you can find (except for during the Christmas holidays and New Year's Eve, when prices skyrocket), so if you’re on a budget, this is definitely the cheapest time to visit.
In Winter, you can also eat typical Christmas products (panettone, pandoro, and torrone - just to name a few), and there will be Christmas lights all around the towns, with big Christmas trees on the main squares surrounded by lovely markets. Even if the weather isn’t ideal, the atmosphere in Emilia-Romagna during the winter is definitely special.
So, while there’s no bad time to come here, for most visitors, May and September are the best months to visit Emilia-Romagna.
How long to spend here
I may be biased as I love Emilia Romagna, but I think you absolutely need at least 7 days for a visit to this region. As you will see from this itinerary, a one-week road trip allows you to explore several beautiful towns in the region, along with a visit to the countryside.
Over the course of a week, Bologna, Ravenna, Ferrara, and other historic cities and gastronomic powerhouses are all within your reach. While you’ll only have about a day in each city, this is enough time to let you experience each place and actually get a feel for its culture, atmosphere, and particularities. It’s the perfect introduction to the region.
With anything less than a week, you would either have to cut out a few absolutely lovely cities and towns, or rush through them all so fast as to not get any real sense for them.
Even with a week, you won’t won't have time to stay longer than a day in any one place, so if you fall in love with somewhere you’ll still have to move on and just plan a second visit.
Now, if you have more time to spare, I really suggest spending around 10-14 days in Emilia Romagna so that you can explore beyond its big cities and cultural centers.
Emilia-Romagna has incredible countryside where you can enjoy leisurely walks and even sporty activities like mountain biking and horse riding. The region has around 6,500 km of trails, including the famous "Via degli Dei," connecting it with Tuscany. You can spend a lot of time out in nature here!
If you visit the region in winter, the area of the Appennino offers ski facilities and mountain lodges for a snowy escape. In comparison, summer is ideal for enjoying the Riviera Romagnola and its lively beaches.
So while 10-14 days is the perfect amount of time to travel to Emilia-Romagna, a week is enough to see the region's highlights and get a feel of why it is so special.
Transportation and Getting Around
Since this itinerary involves moving from town to town on a daily basis, the best way to do this trip is with a car. If you rent a car, you won’t have to constantly carry luggage back and forth from train stations every day, and you’ll have the freedom to move at your own pace and make stops at unexpected places that interest you.
Once you reach your destinations, you’ll never need the car, as cities and towns in Emilia Romagna are very pedestrian-friendly and their centers are fairly small. They are totally walkable.
Driving in Emilia Romagna
Now, taking into account I’ve planned this itinerary assuming that you’ll rent a car (which is possible to do at the airport and in all major towns, usually inside the train station and in the towns’ centers) the following are some of the basics that you need to know when driving in Emilia Romagna:
Generally speaking, the road conditions are pretty good, both inside the towns and in the countryside, compared to other Italian regions. However, you might encounter bumpy roads if you venture into secondary streets in the countryside, as well as in the Apennines;
You will find both toll roads (autostrade), which are the quickest way to get from one town to the other, and roads where you won’t need to pay to transit;
Parking inside the towns isn’t easy as everywhere is usually busy, and the historic centers have several ZTL zones. I suggest checking beforehand for big parking lots or booking hotels with reserved parking.
Italians are famous for being aggressive drivers. While this is (unfortunately) true, in my opinion, it’s less stressful to drive in Emilia-Romagna than in other parts of the country.
Renting a car
If you’re starting your trip within the region, picking up a car in Emilia Romagna is quite easy. All the major cities (Bologna, Modena, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Ravenna, etc.) and even some decent-sized towns have rental agencies.
If you plan on renting a car, I always recommend checking prices on the following two websites:
DiscoverCars is an online aggregator that I always recommend checking in order to look for rentals and compare prices. They include offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find terrific deals.
RentalCars is very similar, although they tend to list mostly larger companies. It’s now owned by Booking.com, so is backed by a familiar and reputable brand. Their prices are good too.
Getting around with public transportation
If you prefer not to rent a car, you will be glad to know it’s incredibly easy to get around Emilia-Romagna’s towns by train. You can travel by treno regionale (lower fair train offered by Trenitalia) for as little as 4€ per way, with prices increasing with growing distances and by selecting faster trains.
Each larger city also has its own network of local buses, as well as many train routes connecting the entire region, so you can certainly mix things up and catch a bus or train on a day when you don’t feel like driving.
The bus and train networks are easy to navigate and function well in all the major towns.
To get the best deals, book trains in advance - especially if you are traveling in peak seasons.
Where to buy train and bus tickets
I always recommend booking your tickets directly with the service provider. That way, if you need to make changes or ask questions, your booking is with the company itself.
That said, looking through all the different options can be really time consuming and some of their websites are non-existent or really hard to use. So, if you want to compare prices from different companies and buy tickets all in one place, you can try Omio for bus tickets and Trainline for train tickets. They’re resellers, so they might cost a bit more and may not be as flexible regarding changes, but they’re legitimate companies.
Is Emilia Romagna Expensive? Average Costs
The most expensive things during your trip will almost certainly be hotels, restaurants, and fuel.
Gas in Italy is quite expensive, and like everywhere these days, the price changes regularly.
Gasoline - at present, a gallon of gasoline in Italy costs around $8 USD (if you’re visiting from America, be ready for some sticker shock when filling up).
Hotels - the starting price for a double room in a mid-range hotel is usually about 70 euros per night.
Renting a car - if you’re picking up and dropping off your rental at the same location, expect to spend about 25-40 euros per day for an inexpensive compact car.
The price will be more during busier times of year, and if you need an automatic transmission, you should expect to pay even more.
Meals: the average price for a meal in a mid-range trattoria is around 20€, while a more formal restaurant will cost double that (especially if you include wine or other alcohol).
You can also find lots of inexpensive fast food or takeaway restaurants which will cost significantly less (about 10 euros).
At lunch, restaurants often offer multi-course set menus for a fixed price (about 15 euros). These are excellent value.
Taxis - honestly, taxis are very expensive in Italy, so I suggest you avoid them as much as possible. Public transport works very well all throughout Emilia Romagna, so there really isn’t any reason to hail a cab.
Public transportation - a local bus ride will cost as little as 1.2€, and short train rides between cities in the region are about 4 euros.
Museums and attractions - the average cost of a ticket to a premier museum, historical site, or other major attraction is around 12€.
Many sites offer reduced fairs for specific categories of people (like minors, those over 65, and students) as well as discounts during specific days of the week/month (look this up before visiting and plan accordingly!).
Keep in mind that, usually, on the first or last Sunday of the month, the entrance to most of the sights around Italy is free.
One-Week Emilia Romagna City Hopping Itinerary
With so much to see and experience, you need careful time management since you can only travel for one week.
With only 1 week, your best bet is to move your base from town to town each day. I know it might be tiring (always packing and unpacking), but it will be worth it as you can experience each town more in-depth.
I've built this itinerary assuming you'll have a car, but know that you could easily get around all the cities featured (except for Dozza and San Leo) by train.
As you will see, this is a city hopper itinerary, so the idea is to get to a new town each day to see as much as possible.
Following my travel plan, you will discover the region's major cities (Bologna, Modena, Parma, Ferrara, and Ravenna), and two lesser-known villages that are, in my opinion, beautiful (Dozza and San Leo).
The last day has a bonus visit: the Republic of San Marino, nestled inside the region's territory.
Day 1 - Bologna
Bologna needs no introduction. There isn't a better place to start a week-long exploration of Emilia-Romagna than from its capital city. Nicknamed La Rossa ("the red one") for the striking red-brick architecture, La Grassa ("the fat one") for its delicous cuisine, and La Dotta ("the wise one") for the presence of the oldest university in the world, Bologna is a city full of secrets to discover.
Morning
Start your day in Bologna in the Piazza Maggiore, the city's central square. On three sides, you will see elegant palaces, and on the last one, an impressive but incomplete-looking church, the Basilica di San Petronio. This Italian-Gothic church's construction began in 1390 but has reminded unfinished; however, I think this element renders it even more splendid.
Once done with the visit, head to the palace across the square, Palazzo del Podestà. You can pass under its big vaults to discover one of the Seven Secrets of Bologna: the special structure of the vaults creates an acoustic effect that allows sounds to be transmitted from one corner of the archway to the opposite, diagonally.
Have fun with it, and then walk to the little square on the side of the palace, Piazza del Nettuno. Here is the famous fountain with a statue of the god Neptune, which is another of the Seven Secrets. Thanks to an optical illusion, Neptune's left finger will appear like an erect penis!
It's now time to climb the Torre degli Asinelli, Bologna's remaining tower and its symbol. After that, reach Piazza Santo Stefano with the lovely Basilica di Santo Stefano. The church complex comprises seven different churches and chapels, so locals call it the Sette Chiese.
Afternoon
There is no better place for an authentic meal than Sfoglia Rina, a pasta shop opened in 1963, which is now also a restaurant. Behind the counter, you can see the sfogline making the fresh pasta you will eat. I suggest you try their Tortellini with Parmigiano Reggiano eggnog or the Tortelloni with butter and sage.
After lunch, it's time to stroll around Via Zamboni, the University of Bologna's main street. Wonder around and head to the Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna, which collection includes paintings from the 13th to the 18th century made by local artists.
Next, head to Via Piella to peek through a small window that opens to the charming Canale delle Moline, called 'Little Venice'. Then, you can walk to Via dell'Indipendenza, Bologna's main shopping street.
Evening
To complete your Bologna experience, have a classic aperitivo at Mercato delle Erbe. The bars outside the market are packed with university students. Inside the market hall are several restaurants where you can stay for dinner. My favorite place is Polpette e Crescentine, which makes the city's best crescentine (a traditional fried bread).
Day 2 - Dozza
A lovely square in historic Dozza, adorned with a few of the town’s iconic murals. Photo: Wwikiwalter, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This small village on the Colli Bolognesi is awarded as one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy. Dozza is famous for its murals. Since the 1960s, the village has hosted the Biennial of the Painted Wall, during which Italian and international artists painted the exterior walls of houses and public buildings with incredible art pieces.
Morning
Only a 15-minute drive away from Bologna is the charming town of Dozza. So, I suggest starting your day with a nice morning stroll and breakfast in Bologna. Afterwards, hop in the car and shoot over to Dozza.
The best way to spend the first part of your time here is meandering around Dozza historic center to marvel at and take pictures of the colorful murals. Under each image, you can read the author's name and the year it was made.
My favorite thing is that murals are everywhere, on walls, arches, around doorways, and between windows.
Once at the end of the central Via XX Settembre, you will have in front of you the Rocca Sforzesca. This Middle Ages fortress was renovated in the late 15th century when Caterina Sforza transformed it into a noble residence.
The Rocca houses a museum mainly displaying paintings and historical furnishings of the Malvezzi-Campeggi family, who inhabited the castle until 1960.
Afternoon
Right in front of the Rocca Sforzesca is La Scuderia Ristorante. A family-run eatery, it offers traditional Romagnola and Emilian cuisine. From fresh pasta dishes to local cured meats and cheeses served with the local piadina (a sort of flat bread), every dish is sapiently paired with wines.
After lunch, why not take a walk in the rolling Colli Bolognesi? From the center of Dozza starts a variant of the Cammino di Sant'Antonio, which winds through Veneto, Emilia-Romagna, and Tuscany.
The loop trail around Dozza is 17 km long and makes for a perfect walk in nature alongside fields and green valleys with beautiful panoramic views.
Evening
Once back in town, it's time for some extra relaxation. I suggest visiting the Enoteca Regionale dell'Emilia-Romagna, which has about 800 labels of typical local wines produced in the hills around Bologna. The Enoteca has a wine bar where you can do wine tastings or sit for a glass of wine.
There is also a restaurant on the upper floor, so you can stay for dinner if you like the atmosphere. Another option for your evening meal is the Osteria di Dozza, located at the end of Via XX Settembre.
The traditional menu will delight your palate with local cuisine: outstanding are the homemade tagliatelle and tortellini and the sweet squacquerone cheese served for dessert.
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Day 3 - Modena
The central Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini Square, facing the Modena Synagogue. Photo: Kgbo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Modena has it all: UNESCO heritage sites, incredible food products (the aceto balsamico on top of them all), and luxury car brands (Ferrari and Maserati have their homes here). You shouldn't need any other reason to be excited at the thought of visiting this Emilian city.
Morning
After 1 hour and a half on the road, you will arrive in beautiful Modena. The city has two main squares, around which this day of the itinerary revolves.
Start your exploration from Piazza Roma with the elegant Palazzo Ducale. This is one of the largest Baroque palaces in Italy, and the architectural style is already evident from the outer façade. On the inside, there are many richly-furnished rooms and a stunning courtyard.
Walk on the other side of the square to take the Largo San Giorgio street. Here is the baroque Chiesa di San Giorgio that will capture your eye with its bright orange and white façade.
Take a look inside the church before heading to the stunning Parco Giardino Ducale Estense, built at the behest of Duke Cesare Estense at the end of the 16th century.
Behind the park is another unmissable attraction in Modena, the Museo Enzo Ferrari, dedicated to the life and work of the founder of the Ferrari car brand.
Take your time admiring the Ferrari car models from the past, and then walk back to Piazza Roma. Don't stop here but make your way to Piazza Grande. Before visiting the buildings around it, let's have lunch!
Afternoon
Two minutes from Piazza Grande is one of the best spots in town to have a meal, the historical Mercato Albinelli. Opened in 1931, it is the city's beating heart, where locals go to do their daily grocery. Enjoy the typical products of Modenese gastronomy in the restaurants and food stalls of the market for an exceptional meal.
Once back in Piazza Grande, your first stop should be the Duomo di Modena. A UNESCO-listed site, the cathedral was built in 1099 in Romanesque style. Besides the cathedral is the Torre Ghirlandina, an 86-meter-high bell tower perfectly mixing Romanesque and Gothic elements. Pay a fee to climb to its top to enjoy a beautiful view of Modena.
Something you can't miss while in Modena is trying the delicious local balsamic vinegar. I highly recommend taking a guided tour of the Acetaia Comunale, which includes tastings of the famous vinegar.
Evening
For dinner, a great choice is Trattoria il Fantino. This typical restaurant boasts a rustic and cozy atmosphere. To try as much local cuisine as possible, order the tris di primi, which consists of three samples of different pasta dishes.
If you want to splurge yourself, dine at the 3 Michelin-starred Osteria Francescana of internationally-claimed chef Massimo Bottura. Just make sure to book well in advance…!
Day 4 - Parma
Parma’s magnificent Duomo and Baptistery. Photo: Carlo Ferrari., CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Parma is known worldwide for two culinary excellences, Prosciutto Crudo di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano, and is a UNESCO heritage site for Gastronomy.
However, the city has a rich history that goes beyond its cuisine, as it has been the seat of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza in Renaissance times. Full of important monuments, churches, and palaces, one day is definitely not enough to see everything Parma has to offer.
Morning
Grab the car and drive for 50 minutes to get to Parma. Don't waste time and immediately go to Piazza Duomo, where you will find the Cattedrale di Parma, a splendid Romanesque church built with pink Verona marble.
The cathedral is even more beautiful inside, featuring an intricately frescoed ceiling and a stunning dome. Head out and get inside the nearby Battistero to admire the sculptures by Antelami.
Right behind the cathedral is the monastery complex of Abbazia di San Giovanni Evangelista, with the impressive dome frescoed by Correggio. Now you can walk towards the Teatro Regio.
On the way, you will find the Basilica Santa Maria della Steccata, which I highly recommend visiting to marvel at Parmigianino's stunning frescoes.
A couple of minutes later, you will be at the Teatro Regio. In business since 1829, this Baroque theater can only be visited by guided tours.
Afternoon
In Parma, there is the perfect spot for a quick but filling and delicious lunch: Da Pepèn. This historic panino place has been incredibly popular among locals since the 1950s when it first opened. Their special is the panino stuffed with seasoned horse meat tartare.
When you are ready, reach the fantastic Palazzo della Pilotta, a complex housing 4 different museums! With only one ticket, you can visit the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, the Galleria Nazionale, the Biblioteca Palatina, and the stunning Teatro Farnese - my favorite!
Take your time exploring Palazzo della Pilotta, and then cross the Ponte Verdi bridge to arrive at the fabulous Giardino Ducale. This big green space is ideal for winding down after a busy day of sightseeing.
At the far end of the park is the Palazzo Ducale, which is unfortunately closed to the public. However, you can still admire its regal façade before returning to your hotel.
Evening
For dinner, I recommend Trattoria Corrieri, a restaurant serving local foods prepared following the most traditional recipes since the 19th century. This place is popular among locals, so you need to reserve a table in advance. If you won't find a table, a great alternative is Trattoria Salumeria Sorelle Picchi.
End your Parma experience in the best way by watching a show at Teatro Regio.
Day 5 - Ferrara
Ferrara’s ornate Cathedral of St. Georga. Photo: Gary Bembridge via Flickr, CC by 2.0
Nicknamed the "City of the Renaissance", Ferrara is an unmissable stop for every Emilia-Romagna trip. The city became an intellectual and artistic center during the 15th and 16th centuries, which is why is UNESCO-listed.
If you are visiting Ferrara on the day of your birthday, you won't pay for entrance to its museums!
Morning
An early wake is what will kick this day. The distance from Parma to Ferrara isn't the shortest: around 2 hours. Park your car and begin the visit by heading to Piazza del Municipio, overlooked by the Palazzo Municipale, which used to be the residence of the d'Este family until their castle was built. The palace's entrance is adorned with the imposing Scalone d'Onore.
Step inside the Palazzo Municipale to visit the Camerino delle Duchesse, a small and richly-decorated room designed for the duchesses, and the Sala dell'Arengo, with beautiful frescoes.
Behind the square is the stunning Cattedrale San Giorgio a Martire. This church is built of white marble and has an original Romanesque design enriched by Gothic elements. The cathedral is momentarily closed for restoration work, but if you travel to Ferrara in the future, you might be lucky and find it open again.
The next stop of the morning is the symbol of the city, the Castello Estense. With four large towers on either side, the castle boasts an aqueous moat still visible today. Cross the drawbridges to discover the castle's dungeons and large frescoed rooms.
Afternoon
At this point, you surely will be hungry. A stone's throw from the castle is the Hostaria Savonarola, serving traditional dishes in a cozy atmosphere. Don't miss their salamina da sugo, a particular pork sausage eaten cooked.
After lunch, head to the unique Palazzo dei Diamanti. As the name suggests, the building is covered in thousands of diamond-shaped ashlars. A legend tells that one of the ashlars actually contains a diamond of the crown of Duke Ercole I d'Este.
On the palace's first floor is the Pinacoteca Nazionale di Ferrara, displaying a large collection of works from the Middle Ages until the 18th century.
The last stop of the day is the Cimitero Monumentale della Certosa. This stunning cemetery features the Chiesa di San Cristoforo alla Certosa and well-tailored gardens with lodges where the tombs are located.
The solemn and tranquil atmosphere makes for a great change of scenery from the hustle and bustle of Ferrara's center.
Evening
Before dinner, go admire the Rotonda Foschini. Located in the opposite corner of the Castello Estense, this small oval courtyard gives its best at sunset.
Ferrara has many delicious restaurants; one of my favorites is Trattoria Da Noemi. Housed in a building dating back to the 15th century, you can taste traditional Ferrara dishes here. Try the cappellacci di zucca (pasta stuffed with squash) for a heavenly meal!
Day 6 - Ravenna
The simple exterior of Ravenna’s Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. Photo: Sailko, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
One of the incredible mosaics inside the church. Photo: Stefano saguatti, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ravenna is the most historically important city in Romagna, known for the stunning mosaics that adorn the interiors of its religious buildings, which are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites. You will be astonished in front of the precision and bright colors of the mosaics that still make Ravenna full of ancient charm.
Morning
Hop in the car and drive for 1 hour and 15 minutes to get to Ravenna. The city is full of attractions, so prepare for a busy day!
The first stop is right outside the historic center, where is the unmissable Basilica di Sant'Apollinare Nuovo. Built in 505 CE, this church will impress you with its 38-meter-high cylindrical bell tower. But it is inside that the real magic happens: a monumental mosaic representing scenes from the New Testament, the oldest of this type that has come down to us.
Walk 5 minutes to arrive to Battistero degli Ariani. At first, the interior looks rather bare, but as soon as you look up at the ceiling, you will remain astonished by the dome, entirely covered in a golden mosaic with religious figures.
The next stop has nothing to do with mosaics and religion. However, the Tomba di Dante is a must. Here lies to rest one of the most renowned Italian poets, Dante Alighieri, who lived his last years in Ravenna.
Right beside the tomb is the Basilica di San Francesco, where the funerals of Dante were celebrated. This church isn't that spectacular compared to the others in Ravenna, but it has a characteristic I adore: a small crypt submerged by water through which you can glimpse the mosaics on the floor.
Afternoon
Lunch can't but be at Cà de Ven. This wine shop with kitchen is an institution in the city. Frequented by locals and tourists alike, it is housed in a 15th-century building. The first dining room features wonderful frescoed ceilings, so reserve a table there.
Just a minute from the restaurant is the Battistero Neoniano. Also called Battistero degli Ortodossi, it is the oldest religious building in Ravenna. Step inside to remain speechless: every corner of the Battistero is covered in mosaics. Particularly beautiful is the decoration on the dome, depicting Christ's baptism.
On the way to the next church on the itinerary, you will pass by the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra. This incredible sight was discovered only in the 1990s and consists of a huge - we are talking about 1000 square meters - building entirely covered by mosaics.
It was probably the house of a rich local as some of the mosaics depict non-religious scenes, like four genes dancing.
If there is a church you must visit in Ravenna, that is the Basilica di San Vitale, where you can admire Byzantine art in all its glory. It's difficult to describe the magnificence of this church: you need to see it with your own eyes!
Right next to the Basilica is the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia, with beautifully-preserved mosaics covering the vaults and the central dome, representing a starry sky.
Evening
To end the day with a typical meal, I want to suggest two places. The first is the Osteria del Tempo Perso, which cappelletti in brodo (tortellini in broth) are Slow Food award.
Or you can head to the Mercato Coperto di Ravenna, located in Piazza del Popolo. Inside the market, you can watch the famous sfogline making fresh pasta and savoring the traditional cuisine from Romagna.
Day 7 - San Leo and San Marino
The historic village of San Leo, with its towering clifftop fortress. Photo: Carlo grifone, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The first stop of your last day in Emilia-Romagna will be the small village of San Leo, located in the heart of the Montefeltro historical region. After exploring it, the afternoon will be dedicated to discovering San Marino. This UNESCO-listed place is actually outside Italy's borders, as San Marino is a republic on its own.
Morning
Take the car and drive south: after 1 hour and 15 minutes, you will be in the charming village of San Leo. The rolling hills and the medieval castle at the top of the village dominate the entire landscape.
As you approach the fortified castle, take your time strolling around the narrow cobblestone streets. At the center of San Leo is the lovely Piazza Dante, where is the Palazzo Mediceo. Built in the 16th century, it houses the Museo di Arte Sacra, which displays several paintings and liturgical paraphernalia objects.
But the real gem is the Fortezza di San Leo that dominates the rocky outcrop, offering panoramic views. Inside the castle, you can see the famous cell of the controversial Count of Cagliostro, known for being an alchemist and healer.
Head back to Piazza Dante and look for a restaurant for lunch. I usually go to Ristorante La Corte di Berengario II, which serves the best coniglio in porchetta (a sort of roasted rabbit) - even better than the one my grandma makes!
Afternoon
In just 30 minutes by car, you will be leaving Italy behind you. The Repubblica di San Marino is a state on its own, encapsulated within Italy's territory. From San Leo, you are so close to San Marino that it would be a pity to miss its visit.
San Marino is all about the fortress that sits aloft on Monte Titano. This privileged position makes the Rocca di San Marino a breathtaking vantage point. The fortress was built in the 13th century and comprises three towers, two of which can be accessed (Torre Guaita and Torre Cesta).
The Rocca di San Marino with its impressive castle walls and Torre Guaita. Photo: Max_Ryazanov, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Before climbing the towers, walk the city walls that connect them. The second tower, called Torre Cesta, is the tallest, and from here, you will have epic views of the surrounding landscape. This tower also hosts the Museo delle Armi Antiche.
There are several interesting museums in San Marino, so you can visit one of two, depending on the time. Some suggestions are the Museo Pinacoteca di San Francesco and the Museo della Tortura.
End the discovery of San Marino from one of its most panoramic points, Piazza della Libertà. This stunning square is where the official ceremonies of the state are held. At its far end is Palazzo Pubblico, home of San Marino's highest institutions. In front of it, from May to September, it is possible to watch the Changing of the Guard.
Evening
Just one minute from Piazza della Libertà is the Ristorante La Terrazza, extra special at sunset. The spectacular views and delicious dishes served don't come for cheap, but it's a fantastic way to end an unforgettable week in Emilia-Romagna.
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