A Local’s Belgium Itinerary - 6 Days in the “Crossroads of Europe”
I’m a tour guide and travel consultant here in Belgium, so I’ve helped plan countless trips, ranging from people rushing through in just a day or two, to “slow travelers” settling in and spending a couple of weeks here. There’s no right or wrong amount of time to spend in Belgium, but I will say that in my view, and based on feedback from clients, it does seem to be a place where “more is always better”.
Despite its small size, Belgium really does have quite a lot to offer; including historic cities with impressive architecture dating back to the Middle Ages, some of the major battlefields from throughout European history (just think of the Battle of Waterloo or the Great War’s Flanders Fields), and among the continent’s most delicious food (even if not always the healthiest).
You could easily spend two weeks here and still not have seen everything, but for a solid introductory visit, you can get a very nice overview of Belgium in as little as 5 days. I know that many people spend a lot less time here than that, often just making a quick visit to Bruges and Brussels or Ghent when traveling between Amsterdam and Paris, but believe me, if you take my recommendation and stay for longer, you’ll be happy that you did so.
And even with 5 or 6 days (which is what I recommend), you won’t be able to see, do, or eat everything, and will have to make some seriously tough choices: like which of the more than 1,500 of our beers you should try, and which Belgian chocolates to devour from our selection of more than 2000 chocolatiers!
With the above in mind, I’ve put together a 6-day itinerary for you that takes in the highlights that every visitor is sure to want to visit, along with a few less-known and less-visited places that I think are super worthwhile and present a chance to see Belgium away from the crowds and off the typical tourist trail.
When I travel, I’m personally always most interested in finding the hidden gems of wherever I’m visiting, so, I’ve been sure to include a lot of places that I love and which you won’t see in most other itineraries and guides. Even in somewhere like Bruges, which can sometimes be overwhelmed by visitors, it’s perfectly possible to avoid those crowds - it’s just a matter of visiting the right spot at the right time. And that’s exactly what I’m going to help you do with this itinerary!
Table of Contents
Itinerary overview
The 6-day itinerary that I’ve planned out below has you staying in two different bases - Ghent and Brussels -, with the first 3 nights in Ghent and the last 3 nights in Brussels.
Day 1: Explore your host city, Ghent, with a nice walk through the different neighborhoods of the historic center with stops to check out a medieval castle, a huge altarpiece, and to much some delicious Belgian fries in between.
Day 2: On your second day, you’ll take an early train to Bruges, arriving when the town is still quiet so that you can wander this extremely charming and picturesque town without the crowds.
Day 3: It’s time to learn about and witness the reminders of the First World War in the western corner of Flanders, often referred to as Flanders Fields nowadays.
Day 4: On the fourth day, I’ve got you moving on to Brussels, where you’ll discover Belgium’s capital and the famous Manneken Pis, the most beautiful main square in the world. Maybe you’ll even bump into the Belgian King near the Royal Palace.
Day 5: Today’s program is very busy but very rewarding, with visits to the site of Napoleon’s famous last battle, some mysterious yet astounding abbey ruins, and the historic university town of Leuven (considered the next hidden gem among the so-called Flemish art cities).
Day 6: Wrap up your time in Belgium in our second largest city, Antwerp, with a nice walk through the city center and a visit to one of its many excellent museums.
A few useful things to know
Before we get into the daily plan for the itinerary, I just want to run through a couple of basic things that I think are very useful to know as you start mapping out your trip here and. So here they are:
How long to spend in Belgium
To get a real feel for Belgium, 4 days is the bare minimum that you need here. Even so, I would absolutely recommend staying a few days longer than, as you’ll otherwise be limiting your trip to a mad dash through the highlights. As I said above, you could easily spend two weeks here and not see everything, so as a comfortable middle ground I typically recommend 5 to 6 days for a proper introduction to the country and solid first-time visit.
Now, regardless of whether you choose to stay for 4 or 6 days, my core recommendations remain the same: dedicate 3 days between Bruges, Ghent, and Brussels (one day in each), and then spend however many other days you have left touring the historic battlefields and charming countryside.
Bruges and Ghent are small cities, but they are absolutely gorgeous and you will certainly be able to easily fill a day in each of them. Brussels, our big city, is a lot less charming and more modern, but it presents an interesting contrast to those two little cities, and it has a ton of great museums, cultural attractions, and restaurants.
A full day in each of those cities gives you enough time to mix in some lesser-known sights with the famous highlights, and believe me, anything less than that will leave you seriously disappointed and feeling like you missed out. So set aside a day for each of them.
From there, the rest of your time in Belgium - whether that’s 1, 2, or 5 days – can be dedicated to touring the countryside and visiting our historic sites and battlefields. You have a wealth of those to choose from, like the World War I battlefields around the city of Ypres, the so-called ‘Flanders Fields’, and the site of the Battle of Waterloo to the south of Brussels.
And while lots of people who aren’t diehard history buffs are inclined to write these sites off, I promise you, they’re super interesting for anyone. The trenches, craters, memorials, interactive museums, and impressive cemeteries will leave an impression on everyone, even the most skeptical travelers. I know this with certainty because I’m a tour guide here and even clients who start the day by telling me that they’re not very interested always end up being surprised by how much they’ve enjoyed themselves!
Where to stay (not specific to this itinerary)
Belgium is a very small country and the main cities are all very well connected by train, so it’s perfectly possible to have just one base for your visit and make day trips out from it. If that’s your preference, I would recommend staying in Ghent, as it’s centrally located between Bruges and Brussels, taking only 30 minutes by train to reach either of them. It’s also a very lively city with a great evening scene and a nice mix of locals, students, and tourists.
If you’re planning to do some countryside touring, then I’d suggest adding in at least a one-night stay in Brussels, mostly because it’s closer to many of the battlefields (like Waterloo) and makes the day trip out to them a lot more pleasant.
And finally, Bruges is another good option for a second base. Logistically, it doesn’t have any advantages over Ghent or Brussels, but the appeal of spending the night here is that it gives you the chance to tour the town either in the morning when the day-trippers haven’t yet arrived, or in the evening after they’ve departed. Bruges can get seriously crowded with tourists, so I can’t overstate how pleasant it is to spend a few hours exploring it at the start or end of the day when the madness dies down and the city returns to its everyday rhythms.
If an overnight in Bruges isn’t in the cards, you can still get this experience by catching a very early train in from Ghent or Brussels, or by staying for the evening and having a late dinner there.
How to get around
Belgium has an excellent public transit system that will move you quickly and efficiently between all of our major cities and larger towns. As an example, it’s only a 30-minute train ride from Ghent to either Bruges or Brussels, and an hour from Brussels to Bruges.
Trains run very frequently all throughout the day and they’re quite comfortable, with almost always enough seats for everyone to be able to sit down during the journey. The only possible exception to this is if you’re traveling in toward one of the big cities during rush hour, and even then, you’ll still usually be able to find a seat.
The train stations are mostly central, and it’s an easy walk from them to the historic center in both Brussels and Bruges. In Ghent, you’ll have to take a 15-minute tram ride from the station, it’s an easy and pleasant ride.
Now, if you’re planning to visit the countryside and historic sites dispersed around our rural areas, it’s a lot trickier, although not impossible, to do that via public transportation alone. You’ll often be able to get to a nearby city or town with the train or bus, but the sites themselves, like the Battle of Waterloo Memorial, the battlegrounds outside Ypres, and the lovely countryside abbeys, won’t be accessible from there.
So, when it comes time to leave the cities behind, I’d recommend renting a car for a couple of days or taking tours – like mine! - that provide transportation. In case you’re interested in this latter option, you can have a look at the various day trips and driving tours that I offer here.
If you choose to rent a car, I always recommend having a look at DiscoverCars, which is an online aggregator that has a good selection of smaller companies that are often surprisingly affordable.
Day 1 – Ghent
The Graslei in Ghent. Photo: Martinvl, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning
Start your day with one of the most incredible views in the city: St Michael’s Bridge, which offers a stunning panorama of Ghent’s historic skyline. From there, take the stairs down to the Korenlei, one of the city’s most picturesque areas.
With quays on both sides of the Leie River, this was once Ghent’s main port, and there are a number of historic buildings here (dating as far back as the 11th century) that still reflect that legacy. So take your time walking along the water and admiring the façades - many of them offer clues about their original port-oriented functions. Just on the other side of the river is the Graslei (pictured above), which is similarly gorgeous.
Next, make your way towards the ‘Manhattan of the Middle Ages’, the three towers of Ghent: St Nicholas Church (have a look inside, it’s free), the Belfry, and St Bavo’s Cathedral. The Belfry is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was the symbol of the city in Medieval times. Be sure to look up all the way to the top to spot the weathervane, crowned by the city’s guardian dragon.
From there, wander into St Bavo’s Cathedral, whose marble interiors and impressive artworks are a must-see. Its most important treasure, the Ghent Altarpiece made by Jan Van Eyck, is in the back of the church though and will require a ticket purchase if you want to see it up close. This is the most stolen piece of art in history and it’s very popular, so I’d suggest buying tickets in advance.
After touring the towers, walk over to Ghent’s “schizophrenic” City Hall (it’s a curious blend of architectural styles) and head through its famous Graffiti Alley, a legal street art zone. You might see artists at work, and if you happen to have some spray paint with you, feel free to leave your own mark!
Continue on to the Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market), one of the oldest squares in Ghent, where a Friday market has been held for nearly 1,000 years.
Then explore the hidden little medieval alleys and charming houses of the Patershol neighborhood, which despite being lovely, are kind of still a hidden gem. You can then make your along the Lieve Canal through the Prinsenhof neighborhood, and while doing so, be on the lookout for the Rabot (Ghent’s last remaining city gate), the Noose Bearer statue, and the remnants of Emperor Charles V’s birthplace.
I know it sounds like a very busy morning, and it will be, but with just a day here, you need to pack the sights in!
Afternoon
After a lot of walking this morning, you’ll definitely be in need of a proper Belgian snack. For that, I’d suggest trying the famous Belgian fries (frites) at Frituur Tartaar. They have a ton of delicious sauces and I always struggle with which to choose, but I’d suggest you try the ‘stoofvleessaus’, which is the gravy used in our famous Flemish Beef Stew.
Following lunch, visit the Castle of the Counts, a medieval fortress in the center of the city that has an interesting and surprisingly funny audio-guide. It also offers fantastic city views from its keep.
Tierenteyn-Verlent mustard shop on the Groentenmarkt square is your next stop, and this iconic and long-standing establishment still makes their spicy Dijon-style mustard in the basement. It’s a pretty unique souvenir if you want to bring something home. While you’re in the square, don’t miss the chance to try Ghent Noses (Cuberdons), a local candy sold from bike carts. They're a true local delicacy.
Next up is a personal favorite of mine: the OLV Ter Hoye Beguinage. This is my favorite place in the city, and it’s a former walled community where religious women once lived (not nuns though). It’s one of several Flemish Beguinages recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage and I find it to be equal parts peaceful, picturesque, and fascinating.
From there, make your way to the student neighborhood around St. Peter’s Square, where you can walk through St. Peter’s Abbey, one of the oldest buildings in Ghent. This area is adjacent to the University of Ghent’s main campus, so is always lively and filled with students.
Evening
For your first night in Belgium, I recommend trying one of Ghent’s ‘brasseries’, which are relaxed and casual spots that serve the type of food that we eat at home: Flemish Beef Stew (stoverij), Vol-au-vent (chicken stew), mussels (when in season), shrimp croquettes (my personal favorite), and so many more. A few of my favorites are Mémé Gusta, Keizershof, or Babbelut.
After dinner, go for another stroll through the historic center, which will give you a chance to see the city in a new light. Ghent is beautifully illuminated at night and it’s unbelievably atmospheric after dark. So take a wander wherever you want and then settle in for a drink (or several) in some of the center’s many bars.
If you want to go where the locals go, try de Trollekelder on St. Jacobsplein street. If you prefer a nice historic setting, I’d suggest Café Den Turk, the oldest bar in town. And for anyone who likes seriously strong drinks, be sure to try jenever, the precursor to gin, which was drunk in the Low Countries as far back as the Middle Ages. In ‘t Dreupelkot has an extensive menu of jenevers with dozens of different flavored options.
Overnight in Ghent
Day 2 – Bruges
Pont des Carmes in Bruges. Photo: Marc Ryckaert (MJJR), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Morning
Without any doubt, Bruges is one of the prettiest and most charming places you’ll ever visit. But it’s charms are far from a secret, and almost everyone who comes to Belgium will pass through Bruges at some point. That means that timing your visit is essential, and the earlier you can get here the better.
So catch a train first thing in the morning and make the 30-minute journey from Ghent to Bruges. The train station is basically right in the center of the city, so is an excellent point from which to start your sightseeing.
Your first stop of the day is the Beguinage of Bruges. Just like the Beguinage in Ghent, it’s also UNESCO World Heritage Site and is beautifully positioned on the Minnewater - lovely a park and lake. This is the favorite spot in Bruges for white swans, the city’s most famous inhabitants.
Next, wander along the small, picturesque streets towards the Church of Our Lady, which you can’t miss due to its huge brickwork tower (the second tallest in the world). Don’t go inside yet, because the visit takes a while and I want you to take advantage of the city’s still-quiet streets. There’ll be time to enter the church later.
So head past the church along Katelinjestraat street and stop by my favorite chocolate shop in Bruges, Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc. Across the street at Tearoom De Proeverie, they make one of the best hot chocolates in the world. Nearby is the 12th-century Old St. John’s Hospital, so head over there next to check out its impressive courtyard and admire one of the oldest hospitals in the world.
Now, cross the canal that runs beside the church via the famous Bonifacius Bridge, one of the most photographed landmarks in the city. Be sure to look back once you’ve crossed it, as the view is genuinely spectacular. Then walk along the Djiver canal until you reach the Rozenhoedkaai, where you’ll have another amazing view, with the Belfry of Bruges in the background.
Here, don’t miss the cute Huidenvettersplein square, which once upon a time was the tanners’ headquarters and also doubled as the “poor man’s fishmarket” (so named because it was where they sold freshwater fish, which was less desirable). Just around the corner from the square you’ll see the Vismarkt - the “rich man’s fishmarket”-, where they still sell fish that’s freshly caught in the North Sea.
Next, continue on to the Burg, one of Bruge’s two principal squares. This is known as the “political” square and it hosts the 14th-century city hall, the earliest gothic-style city hall in the Low Countries, and the mysterious Basilica of the Sacred Blood.
Definitely head inside the Basilica, making sure to visit the simple Romanesque ground floor and the more ornate Gothic upper chapel, which has the Relic of the Sacred Blood – a relic said to contain a few drops of Christ’s blood. You can only see the relic at certain hours of the day, which change regularly. Maybe you’ll get lucky!
After seeing the sights on the “political” square, it’s now time to see Bruge’s second major square – Markt, known as the “economic” square. This is of course where the medieval Belfry of Bruges is located, as well as the 13th-century market hall. You’ll go inside the Belfry later, so don’t do that just yet.
It should be just about lunchtime by now, and the city will likely be getting quite crowded, so this is a good time to head somewhere a bit quieter. For that, make your way to the Hanseatic Quarter, where the Nation Houses of international merchants once stood. On the way, you’ll pass by the world’s first stock exchange near Huis Ter Beurze, as well as Van Eyck Square, the site of Bruges’ former port. There, you’ll still see the impressive Great Toll House and the extremely narrow Pijndershuis, a former guild house.
Afternoon
Super close to Van Eyck square, is the oldest bar in Bruges, Café Vlissinghe, which serves up a great selection of classic Belgian dishes in a historic setting or on its expansive outdoor terrace. It’s always a good choice, so I’d highly recommend you grab lunch there. A good alternative in the same area is Sint-Anna, near St. Anne’s church.
After lunch, take your time to explore the surrounding neighborhood, which has a fraction of the crowds of the area you were in all morning, but still has charming streets and quite a lot of hidden gems. Favorites of mine are the Adornes Domain, a beautifully preserved 15th-century estate built by one of Bruges’ prominent merchant families, and Balstraat, an insanely pretty cobbled street that’s also home to the Lace Center, where you can learn about Bruges’ lace-making tradition.
From there, you’re not far from the site of the old city ramparts, where you’ll find a few historic windmills and one of Bruges’ remaining medieval city gates. It’s a great area to relax and perhaps have a coffee with a view at “De Windmolen”.
Now, remember when I told you earlier that you should save your visit to the Church of Our Lady for later in the day? Well, it’s now the perfect time for that. So retrace your steps and head back toward church, stopping off first at the adjacent Gruuthuse Museum. You can buy a combined ticket for both, and I would absolutely recommend doing so, as they are each spectacular.
Visit the museum first, which offers a really interesting and comprehensive look at Bruge’s history and has exhibits that include beautiful tapestries, Gothic stained-glass windows, intricately carved wooden sculptures, fine examples of historical lacework, and paintings from different eras. It’s a magnificent museum.
Next door, the Church of Our Lady is home to some remarkable treasures of its own, like the tombs of Mary of Burgundy and her father Charles the Bold, and Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, one of the few of his sculptures found outside of Italy.
Evening
It’ll be evening by the time you’ve finished visiting the church and museum, and there’s no more typical evening activity in Belgium than an aperitif – a pre-dinner drink. So do as the locals and grab yourself something to drink. There are countless cafés and bars to choose from and they will all have an excellent beer selection (as well as non-alcoholic options of course), so just head in anywhere that looks nice.
After a drink or two, you may have worked up the courage to climb the 366 steps to the top of the Belfry tower (open until 8pm most of the year), where you’ll be rewarded with a very impressive view of Bruges and its surroundings. You can also tour the treasury and learn about the ingenious carillon system that controls the 47 (!!) bells of the belltower.
You’ll have certainly earned your dinner after your big climb, so here are a few nearby and not-so-overwhelmingly-touristy recommendations: De Gouden Karpel, Restaurant Diligence, Bistro Den Amand, and De Stove.
After dinner, you can go for a wander around the town to enjoy its evening atmosphere or just catch the next train back to Ghent.
Overnight in Ghent
Day 3 – World War I Battlefields and the Medieval city of Ypres
Tyne Cot British Commonwealth Cemetery. Photo: GaryBlakeley, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Grote Markt in Ypres. Photo: Marc Ryckaert, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning
For today, I’ve planned a day trip outside the cities to the World War 1 battlefields surrounding the town of Ypres. To follow the plan, you’ll either need to rent a car for the day or book a tour. If you don’t want to drive yourself, there are tons of tour options, from public group tours to private ones with local guides (like me! You can see some of my day trip options here).
So, your first stop of the day is the Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 in the town of Zonnebeke, about a 50-minute drive from Ghent. This is an excellent museum, and it provides a super accessible and interesting introduction to the First World War in Belgium. It’s very informative, of course, but also has tons of visuals and interactive exhibits, which makes it appealing for everyone (even those of you who really aren’t especially interested in this history).
You’ll find great info on the various battles that took place in the area and will learn about different aspects of warfare during the Great War, like the trenches, dug-outs, and healthcare. The museum even has an original dug-out that they rebuilt, so you can literally get in there and experience for yourself what it would have been like. Expect to spend somewhere from 1-3 hours in the museum.
Whenever you finish up at the museum, it’s time to go out and see the sites themselves. It’s a super short drive to the Tyne Cot British Commonwealth Cemetery, the largest in the world outside of England, with a staggering 12,000 graves. It’s a stunning and powerful place in a beautiful landscape with a view of the infamous Ypres Salient, one of the bloodiest sections of the frontline.
From the cemetery, make your way to the Essex Farm/John McCrae site to see the remnants of the Dressing Station where Canadian surgeon/poet John McCrae was stationed. This is where he wrote the most famous poem of the First World War, “In Flanders Fields”.
Here, you’ll see plenty of bunkers that were part of the 1917 Advance Dressing Station, while the adjoining Essex Farm cemetery contains the graves of Valentine J Strudwick, who at 16 years old was one of the youngest buried in the area, and Thomas Barratt, who was awarded the Victoria Cross for his gallantry in battle here.
Afternoon
When you get hungry, I’d recommend getting lunch at De Fonderie, which is just outside the city of Ypres and has great daily lunch specials and very good salads. Or, if you don’t want to waste any time and want to see as much as possible, you could swing by a local bakery or supermarket to pick up ‘belegd broodje’, a baguette with different kinds of toppings.
Regardless of where you get lunch, your next stop is the Hill 62 Trench Museum, which holds the most authentic WWI trenches of Belgium (to my knowledge). The museum has an interesting history: a farmer came back to his fields after the war and decided to keep the area ‘untouched’, preserving the trenches. He then started collecting the many artefacts left not only in his fields but also those of his neighbors.
It continued to grow from there into what is now a very poignant museum, and walking through the trenches among the craters of the artillery shells really helps you picture, to a limited degree of course, what it would have been like for the soldiers in battle here.
Afterwards, continue the experience with a visit to Hill 60, another authentic part of the actual battlefield that has an almost lunar landscape, many bunkers, and the immense Caterpillar crater, an impressive reminder of the subterranean warfare that took place here.
Having now seen the main sights in the area, it’s finally time to head into Ypres itself. A painstakingly reconstructed Medieval city, Ypres was on the frontline for the full four years of war and is full of all kind of reminders of it: memorials, cemeteries, etc.
At the same time though, it’s a beautiful Medieval city (even if a reconstructed one) that is a joy to explore. Here are some of the things to do and sights to be on the lookout for:
Walk on the former city ramparts, the medieval city wall reinforced by the Sun King Louis XIV’s military engineer Vauban
Admire the main market square with its medieval Cloth Hall and Belfry (rivaling those of Bruges and Ghent!)
Have a look inside St. Martin’s Church
Visit the Memorial Church of St. George, full of memorials to British Commonwealth WWI casualties.
Evening
Once you’ve seen the sights, try to grab an early dinner (no later than 6:00 PM) because you’ll definitely want to be ready at the city’s Menin Gate around 7:15/7:30 PM. There are plenty of dinner options around the main market square, but I always really like Vivaldi or ‘t Zweerd, which are both casual spots with traditional Belgian dishes.
After dinner, head to the gate for the Last Post ceremony, which has been held here every night at 8:00 pm since 1928 (except during WWII). It’s amazing to see how many people show up every night, which is also the reason you need to get there well in advance. The ceremony itself takes between 10 and 25 minutes, depending on the number of participants and special guests.
After the show, hop back in the car and make the drive back to Ghent. OR, if you prefer not to have an hour drive relatively late at night, you could instead stay in Ypres tonight.
Overnight in Ghent (or Ypres)
Day 4 - Brussels
The Mont des Arts in Brussels
The Grand-Place in Brussels
Morning
Get an early start this morning and head straight to Brussels. I’d suggest booking a hotel close to the Central Station so you can quickly and easily drop off your suitcases on arrival and then start touring the city immediately.
When you’re ready to get going, know that Brussels’ historic center is basically divided in two halves - the upper town, so known because it lies “up the mountain” (it’s actually barely even a hill, but hey, this is Belgium) and the lower town, which sits at the base of the hill.
We’ll start our visit here in the upper town, heading first towards the statue of King Albert I at the bottom of the Mont des Arts. Known as the Kunstberg in Dutch, this is a grand square and complex of gardens, impressive buildings, pedestrianized walkways, and a host of museums and cultural institutions. So go for a little wander here and then begin your “climb” up the hill toward the upper town and Royal Palace.
When you reach the top, enjoy the great view of the lower town, making sure to look for the spire of City Hall and, way in the distance, the sixth largest church in the world - the Basilica of the Sacred Heart.
From there, continue on toward the Royal Square, stopping along the way to admire the Museum of Musical Instruments with its striking Art Nouveau façade. This is an important architecture style for Brussels, which is often called ‘the Capital of Art Nouveau’. I don’t really think you need to go in the museum, but it might be worth a visit if you’re especially musically inclined.
From the square, walk down Rue de la Régence into the very fancy and lovely Sablon neighborhood. This is a super pleasant area with pretty architecture and always fun and busy streets, so take some time to just wander around and enjoy the atmosphere. For sightseeing, the standout attractions are the delightful Petit Sablon park – filled with great gardening and sculptures reminiscent of the golden days of 16th-century - and the impressive 15th-century Our Lady of the Sablon Church. Have a look inside to admire the lovely stained-glass windows.
There are also a number of fantastic museums here (the Fine Arts museum, Magritte Museum, etc.), but with limited time in the city I might be inclined to tell you to skip them.
Now, retrace your steps and return to the Royal Square, where you’ll find the Royal Palace. So head over and see if King Philippe is at work today! If the guards are on duty, he’s usually in the building. Right behind the palace is the fabulous Parc de Bruxelles, which were formerly royal hunting grounds. So walk through the park until you reach another major government institution: the Federal Parliament. Monarchy and democracy almost side by side, only separated by a park.
Having explored some of the upper town, it’s now time to head back down the hill. From the Parliament building, the Cathedral of Saint Michael & Saint Gudula is just beneath you, so start off there. This is our first national church and it’s Belgium’s version of Westminster Abbey, where the royals get married and important people have their funerals. So have a look around and take in the imposing Gothic architecture.
After, continue heading downhill until you reach the majestic Royal Galleries, a beautiful covered shopping arcade which was the place to see and be seen for the bourgeois in the 19th century. It’s filled with high-end shops and restaurants and is always a fun place to go for a stroll and do some window shopping. Some of Belgium’s top chocolatiers have outposts here, including the birthplace of the Belgian Praline, the original Neuhaus store.
If you’re feeling like you could go for a snack by now, sit down at Maison Dandoy and try one of their waffles, with or without toppings. After your tasty treat, wander all around the small pedestrianized alleys that branch off from Rue des Bouchers, enjoying the atmosphere.
Eventually, make your way to the truly monumental Grand-Place, one of the most beautiful main squares in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site that’s surrounded by incredibly elegant architecture, some of it dating back to the 14th century. Here, enjoy the towers, the wonderfully ornate facades, the abundance of gold leaf, many lovely statues, and anything else that catches your eye. It really is one of the most magnificent squares that you’ll ever visit, so soak it all in.
Next, follow all the other tourists (for once) and go see Brussels’ most famous monument: Manneken Pis, ‘Little Boy Peeing.’ Yes, the statue is underwhelming and will certainly be smaller than you expect, but it’s simply a must-see regardless and I think is a nice representation of we Belgians’ good sense of humor. Plus, half of the time he’s dressed up!
Right nearby is your last stop of the morning: the former stock exchange of Brussels. Just look from the outside for now as you’ll go inside in the afternoon. The area all around the stock exchange is really pleasant and it’s a joy to wander around, having been totally revived recently and turned into a pedestrian-only zone. Lots of people say it reminds them of Paris!
Afternoon
Ok, after a very busy morning of sightseeing, it’s certainly time for lunch now. So make a quick walk over to St. Catherine’s Square, where you can escape the tourist crowds and eat lunch with the locals. My favorite place for Belgian fries is here, so that’s where I suggest you go: a little hole in the wall of a place called Chou’ke. Whenever I take people on a food tour in Brussels, this is one of the spots that I always visit. So you should go there too and get some of the best fries you’ll ever have.
Afterwards, head over to Mer du Nord and order a shrimp croquette or another seasonal seafood/fish plate (I love their mussels).
For dessert, pay a visit to Choco-Story, where you can learn about the history of chocolate as well as find out how to make Belgian chocolates and pralines. Of course, and most importantly, you can also taste them! If you opt for the full visit, which includes a film and interactive demonstration, the visit will take about 1.5 hours.
Return now to the Former Stock Exchange (The Bourse) and head inside this time. The building itself is lovely and you’ll certainly enjoy the beautiful interiors, but you’re here for more than pretty sights; the Belgian Beer World Experience on the upper floors is a multi-sensory, high-tech experience about Belgian beer culture that even has a UNESCO designation. In case you don’t already know, we take our beer seriously here!
The museum is divided into different zones covering Belgian culture, history of beer making, the brewing process, the exceptional nature and variety of Belgian beer, Belgian beer around the world, and the “Beer Lab”. It's a really fun experience for everyone, even people who don’t really like beer. A typical visit takes between 1.5-2 hours, depending on how long spend up on their rooftop SkyBar.
Evening
Whenever you’re feeling ready for dinner, know that there are far, far too many options here that I love for me to recommend just one to you. So instead, take your pick from any of the following: Nüetnigenough, Le Marmiton, Bij den Boer, or Bij Jacques. These are a few of my favorites and you can’t go wrong with any of them.
After dinner, mix it up with the locals and grab a drink on the Place St Géry or at one of the bars near St Catherine’s square. And be sure to take a walk past the Grand Place again to admire it when all lit up in the evening.
Overnight in Brussels
Day 5 – Waterloo, Villers Abbey ruins, and Leuven
The Lion’s Mound at the site of the Battle of Waterloo. Photo: Jean-Pol GRANDMONT, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
An aerial view of the Villers Abbey ruins. Photo: Abbaye de Villers-la-Ville asbl, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Oude Markt Square in Leuven
Morning
Today will see you leaving the big city behind and heading about an hour south to Waterloo, the site of the famous Battle of Waterloo. The first thing you’ll see when you arrive is the famous Lion’s Mound of Waterloo, positioned on the exact location where the battle took place.
I’d suggest starting your visit at the 1815 Memorial Museum, which opens at 9:30 AM in low season and 10:00 AM in high season. It can get very busy, so plan to arrive right when it opens, leaving Brussels at least an hour beforehand.
As you begin exploring the museum/site, start off by going underneath the actual battlefields, which is where the museum’s fantastic exhibits are located. They do a great job covering the lead-up and background surrounding this battle, Napoleon’s final one, which took place the 18th of June 1815. There’s lots to see, including multimedia animations, animated maps, weapons, and uniforms. Most visitors’ favorite part is the 3D film that genuinely makes you feel you’re in the middle of the battle.
After visiting the Panorama (360-degree painting of the Battle), it’s time to climb the Lion’s Mound, which offers a great overview of the battlefield. One warning - the climb is harder than it seems, so be prepared to put in a bit of work.
Next, you can’t miss the Hougoumont Farm, which is about a kilometer away. You can walk there or take the car for part of the way, and on some days, especially in high season, there’s even a little train that runs from the main site to the farm. This is where the heaviest fighting took place, and part of the original fortified farmhouse is still there. It’s very cool to see.
Expect to spend the better part of the morning here, probably around 4 hours for any visitors with a casual interest in history and this particular battle. You could of course spend longer, but I don’t think that’s necessary for the “average” person.
Whenever you’re ready to move on, make your way to the town of Villers-la-Ville, about a 20-minute drive south. Pay lots of attention to your surroundings for the first part of the drive as you’ll pass by several other reminders of the Battle of Waterloo on the road, including farm La Haie-Sainte, Napoleon’s Last Headquarters and several memorials.
Afternoon
The reason for visiting Villers-la-Ville are the incredible and monumental ruins of Villers Abbey, which will be simply unmissable as you arrive into town. Even from just a glimpse of them, you’ll certainly be convinced that it was worth the trip.
But, it’s lunchtime now, so before heading to the site itself, go first to the Bistro of the Abbey, housed in a beautiful, vaulted cellar from the abbey’s old mill. Here, you can try some local cheeses and meats (or another snack), perhaps accompanied with one of the local micro-brewery’s excellent beers.
Now on to the ruins themselves! I have been here countless times, and even so, I’m still taken aback each visit by their beauty. So really take your time to wander through the different parts of the ruins and the gardens, enjoying the atmosphere and really scoping out every little corner. You can also learn about the importance of abbeys in the Middle Ages, life as a monk during that time, and the different parts that make up an abbey. I don’t think I need to tell you this but take a lot of photos too!
All in all, I’d say you should expect to take around 2 hours at the Abbey between lunch and your visit, assuming you explore at a relaxed pace.
You can process everything that you’ve just seen on the one-hour drive to Leuven, which is your next and final destination of the day. Park the car in the parking lot underneath the Monseigneur La Deuze Square, as this will let you start your walk right in the heart of the city.
This very large square has perhaps one of the weirdest pieces of art you’ll ever see right in the middle of it - a cockroach on a needle -, as well as the impressive university library with its belltower (including carillon), built just after the First World War. Definitely take a close look at the library building as you’ll notice some surprising details on the façade.
Next, head to the ‘Grote Markt’ square to admire what some consider the most beautiful city hall in the world. That is of course a question of personal taste, but it’s without a doubt the most decorated city hall you’ll ever see. In Leuven, they call it their ‘Hall of Fame’. From Market Square you can also see Leuven’s main church, St Peter’s, which is open to the public if you want to have a look inside.
From the Square, start walking down Naamsestraat street until you reach the University Hall, the administrative seat of the oldest university in the Low Countries, the KU Leuven. It was originally built in the 14th century as the Cloth Hall of Leuven. If it’s still open by the time you arrive, have a quick look inside.
Just down the road, you’ll see the St Michael’s Church, which is built in a baroque style and is very different to the other churches you’ve seen in Belgium so far.
If you still have the energy and time, I recommend making the 10-minute walk to the Great Beguinage of Leuven. As you know by now, I love beguinages, and this is one of the oldest and largest still standing today. Even after having seen the other beguinages earlier in your trip, this one will leave a very strong impression on you. It’s now owned by the University of Leuven as housing for personnel and students.
Evening
To wrap up the day, head over to the lovely Oude Markt Square or return to the Grote Markt and do as the students and locals do, grabbing a drink and perhaps a little nibble. You’ll see tons of people out and about on either square, with lots of big groups of students. It’s very fun, especially on a sunny day. So have an aperitivo and do some people watching.
After that, go for a walk down Muntstraat and Tiensestraat streets, two pedestrianized streets that are literally overflowing with restaurants. And since Leuven is not a touristic place, there are no tourist traps to avoid! So pick anywhere that looks good and enjoy a tasty meal surrounded by locals.
After dinner, or whenever you’re ready to return to Brussels, hop in the car and make the easy 30–40-minute drive back.
Overnight in Brussels
Day 6 – Antwerp
Antwerp’s glorious central train station
The Grote Markt Square in Antwerp. Photo: Jules Grandgagnage, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Morning
Antwerp’s traffic is notoriously terrible, so by far the best way to get here from Brussels is the train. The ride is only 40 minutes and the Antwerp train station (pictured above) is one of the most beautiful in the world, so it’s a great way to arrive into the city.
From the station, make your way to Rubenshuis, the city palace of Rubens, the great painter considered to have been the most influential amongst the Flemish Baroque tradition. Rubens bought a house on this location and converted it into an Italian-style city palace, and this is where he lived, worked, and died.
The house itself is unfortunately closed for restoration until 2030, but you’ll have a great view just the same from its stunning baroque garden. If you’re interested, you can however visit the house’s library and do the immersive Rubens Experience, which brings the artist’s story and work to life.
Afterwards, head to the Cathedral of Our Lady, where you can see four of Rubens’ works, including his absolute masterpieces The Elevation of the Cross and the Descent from the Cross. There are free tours (included in the entrance fee) at certain times if you want more in-depth information about the cathedral and its art.
Next, spend some time on the Grote Markt square, admiring its Renaissance-style City Hall and [reconstructed] Guild Halls. And of course, be sure to check out the statue of Antwerp’s legendary hero and supposed founder, the roman soldier Silvius Brabo, who is said to have saved the city from a malicious giant who dared to charge tolls to passing ships.
From the square, it’s a pleasant walk over to the Scheldt River, the city’s central artery and the source of its success and wealth from ancient times through to the present day (remember, this is a city that lives on trade and commerce).
Nearby is the oldest building in Antwerp, Het Steen, so go have a look around it. Inside, you’ll find the Antwerp City Shop and Visitor’s Center, which have a nice selection of regional products, books, city maps, and knowledgeable locals who will give you ideas and advice for things to see and do in town.
Your next stop is the area around Hendrik Conscienceplein, which is known as the “Italy of Antwerp”. On the way there, stop off at the Vleeshuis, or the “Meat Hall”, which is the guildhall of the Butchers’ Guild. It’s the most authentic 16th-century public building in all of Antwerp.
The gorgeous baroque square of Hendrik Conscienceplein is just a short walk from there, and that’s where you’ll find Saint-Carolus Borromeus Church, often called the Rubens church because the artist designed a chapel inside and also helped with the façade and some other details. It’s worth a short visit
But what you’re really here for is the labyrinth of narrow streets that wind off in all directions from the square. They’re tightly packed and incredibly atmospheric, and this is without question one of the prettiest parts of the city. So set aside some time to just wander around aimlessly, getting lost and enjoying the scenery and ambiance.
Afternoon
Time for a break and some lunch! This is a great area to do some people watching and there are a lot of good little lunch places all around here where you can probably find some nice outdoor seating. Two of my favorites are Dorothy’s Tearoom and Marolus but there are many more to choose frmo.
Once you’ve finished lunch, head over to the Vrijdagmarkt, where you can visit the only museum that has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Plantin-Moretus Museum. The museum is located in the authentic 16th-century home and studio of the Plantin-Moretus printing family, and besides being a beautiful city palace, it has some of the world’s oldest printing presses, a magnificent art collection, and a wonderful courtyard garden.
After the museum visit, join the locals for a drink, coffee, or dessert on one of the many terraces that you’ll find in the area (or the cozy, indoor cafes on rainy days).
And it’s now for another of Antwerp’s specialties: shopping and fashion (or window shopping if you’re not looking to splurge)! Antwerp’s fashion epicenter is the Nationalestraat and surrounding streets, where you’ll find the shops of a host of leading designers. This city owes its reputation as an international fashion capital to several designers who graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, and it’s very neat that a fair deal of the shops and designers are local.
Evening
As this is your final night in Belgium, I suggest you treat yourself to an extravagant goodbye dinner. For a top haute cuisine experience, there are 15 Michelin-star restaurants in Antwerp, and while I unfortunately can’t personally recommend any of them (I haven’t been), I have heard really good things about ‘t Fornuis.
According to the Michelin Guide, it’s "a return to the basics of Belgian gastronomy with a deliciously nostalgic feeling". Sounds pretty good and the feedback I’ve heard from people who have been is excellent.
Of course, you don’t need to spend a small fortune to have a tasty and authentic Belgian meal in a beautiful setting. For something still wonderful but far easier on the wallet, I’d suggest ‘t Hofke. I love this spot, hidden away in the Vlaeykensgang but right in the heart of the center, and it offers that old-fashioned and cosy bistro experience.
After dinner, take an evening stroll through the city and admire the beautiful sights as they’re lit up by an atmospheric glow. Not a bad way to end your trip.
Overnight in Brussels or Antwerp
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