How to Spend 2 Days in Alexandria - A Local’s Itinerary
Sitting along the Mediterranean coast in the north of Egypt, Alexandria is a an interesting and ancient city that far too many visitors to Egypt skip over entirely. Ever-popular with Egyptians though, due its favorable climate (by which I mean that it’s moderately cool), this is our second largest city and it feels like a bridge between Europe and Egypt, somewhere straddling both and incorporating aspects of each.
Founded in 331 BC by none other than Alexander the Great (can you guess where the city gets its name?!), Alexandria grew quickly and soon became one of the most important urban centers in the Hellenic world, maintaining its prominence in the Roman era and even through to Ottoman times, albeit to a lesser degree.
Constantly fought over for millennia, and simply built over in modern times, little of ancient Alexandria remains, but that makes the ruins that are left that much more interesting. And ancient world aside, I think Alexandria is just a nice place to be. Yes, it can be rundown in parts and it very much has the feel of a place whose glory has long since faded, but it’s also busy city with an extensive coastline, a seemingly endless beachfront promenade, and a host of interesting Greek and Roman ruins/sites to visit.
In my opinion, a couple of days here is a nice change of pace from anywhere else you’ll visit in Egypt, and the city offers a very different perspective on what modern life in this country looks like.
With that said, let’s have a look at the itinerary!
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Day 1: The big sights along the waterfront
Arrival from Cairo, the Corniche, Sidi Morsi Abu al-Abbas Mosque, Citadel of Qaitbay, Montazah Gardens and Palace
Morning
Take the bus or train from Cairo to Alexandria
When writing an itinerary I would normally start it in the city in question, but as almost all overseas visitors will be coming here from Cairo, it just makes sense to assume your morning will start in the capital.
And unless you’ve got a car, there are two ways to get here: the bus or the train.
If you opt for the bus, head to the bus station in Tahrir Square. There, ask for the company Super Jet, and book your journey with them. Buses leave several times a day and it takes 2.5-3 hours to reach Alexandria. You can check the schedule on Super Jet’s website.
The other option is the train, which is a more comfortable ride and is a little bit faster (about 2-2.5 hours). Trains for Alexandria leave from Ramses Train Station, which is about 15 minutes away by car from the downtown area.
For trains, it’s always best to book your ticket in advance. When booking, make sure to choose a high-speed train option, so that you reach Alexandria quickly. There are many trains, some of which make tons of stops and will take forever, so it’s really important that you reserve a high-speed option.
Unfortunately, most booking sites are in Arabic, so you will probably need to ask someone for help in your hotel. They should be happy to assist you with this though.
Regardless of which transportation method you choose, try to get a relatively early train so that you reach Alexandria by 12:00 PM or earlier.
Inside the Ramses train station in Cairo. Photo: Osama Khalil, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Drop off your things in your hotel
On arrival to the train or bus station in Alexandria, I suggest hailing a cab or Uber/InDrive and heading straight to your hotel to drop off your things.
Alexandria is long and narrow, as the city mostly stretches out from east to west along its Mediterranean coastline. This makes choosing a convenient, central base somewhat difficult, since there isn’t really a “center” of the city.
With that in mind, you’ll probably be best off staying somewhere in the general vicinity of the Raml Station (Mahatet El-Raml), which is a central spot for entertainment, shopping, and the city’s hustle and bustle.
In general, moving around in Alexandria can be more challenging than in Cairo, and I suggest opting for Uber or InDrive, and avoiding regular taxis, which are black and yellow in Alexandria.
So, drop off your bags at your hotel and then let’s begin your city touring of Alexandria.
Stroll along the seafront Corniche
From the city center, make your way to the sea and then begin heading west along the Corniche, Alexandria’s seafront promenade that stretches east to west along almost the entire city. The Corniche is filled with restaurants, cafes, and beach clubs, and it always has a buzzing, lively atmosphere.
On your walk, you’ll pass by Alexandria’s Unknown Soldier Memorial, which is dedicated to the city’s naval soldiers killed at war. It’s a very pretty structure.
A stretch of the Corniche promenade
Sidi Morsi Abu al-Abbas Mosque
Further along the route, you’ll find the incredibly beautiful Sidi Morsi Abu al-Abbas Mosque. It’s the most important mosque in Alexandria and is an architectural masterpiece inside and out.
The original structure - a shrine and then mosque dedicated to the 13th century mystic Al-Mursi Abu'l-'Abbas, for whom the mosque is named - was built in the 13th century, but it has been heavily renovated/rebuilt various times in the ensuing centuries.
The entrance to the mosque. Photo: Alberto-g-rovi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Sidi Morsi Abu al-Abbas Mosque. Photo: © Vyacheslav Argenberg / http://www.vascoplanet.com/, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Inside the mosque. Photo: Jerrye & Roy Klotz, MD, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Citadel of Qaitbay
Just a few minutes’ walk from mosque is the 15th century Citadel of Qaitbay, which is a part of the old fortifications of the city. Standing at the far west end of Alexandria, the Citadel now stands on the same ground where the ancient Lighthouse of Alexandria was located.
The lighthouse is no longer standing, but it was an iconic feature of the Ptolemeic period and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
The entire fortress can be toured, and inside it you can explore all three levels. There’s pretty good signage throughout, so you’ll have a chance to learn some of the history of this important defensive fortification.
The top of the fortress affords fantastic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the city stretching out along it.
If you want a more comprehensive introduction to this place, guides are available for hire at the ticket office. The Citadel closes at 4:00 pm, so be sure to arrive at least an hour or two before then to give yourself enough time to explore it thoroughly.
The Citadel of Qaitbay. Photo: ASaber91, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A boat ride out on the Mediterranean
For another great vantage point of the city, and of the fortress itself, right in the harbor are plenty of boats offering harbor tours which will take you out on the water for a quick ride.
The Citadel seen from the sea. Photo: Amel Esmail, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Seafood lunch along the Corniche
Once you’ve finished visiting the Citadel (and harbor, potentially), it’s time for lunch. So, just walk east (in the direction from which you arrived) along the Corniche, and choose from one of the countless seafood restaurants that you’ll pass by. Dining on the Corniche is a wonderful experience.
Evening
Montazah Gardens/Palace
Don’t take too long for lunch, as your next stop, the Montazah Gardens, are an hour’s ride away along the Mediterranean coast, towards the city’s eastern borders.
The Gardens are open until late evening, and they offer a great opportunity for relaxation in a royal environment. Here, you’ll be walking in the gardens of King Farouk (1922-1965), and will find yourself surrounded by wonderful nature, palm trees, and flowers, all of which will make you feel a world away from the busy city.
Have a stroll around the Montazah Palace, a beautiful building built by Khedive Abbas Hilmy (1892–1914). Unfortunately the palace is not open to the public yet, but the surrounding landscape, gardens, and Montazah bridge, are still lovely and very photogenic.
Enjoy sunset and the early evening hours in the gardens, and then head for dinner, if you’re hungry. The Montazah area offers a few good independent restaurants as well as some associated with nearby hotels, where you can have a very nice dinner.
The Montazah Palace. Photo: Cherif hegazy, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The palace gardens. Photo: Daniel Mayer, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Dinner in downtown
Whenever you’re ready to leave the gardens, call an Uber to bring you back to your hotel in downtown Alexandria, which will be around 30-45 minutes away, depending on the traffic. Note that the drive back to downtown will run along the Corniche road, with the Mediterranean Sea spread out to the horizon on your right.
You might feel tempted to stop here or there to take a few photos, but if you do so, just be careful of petty crime (pickpocketing mostly) and other tourist scams. Lots of tourists visit the Corniche, so there are unfortunately some people who will try to exploit or take advantage of them here.
Back in downtown, grab dinner somewhere near your hotel (if you didn’t eat in the Montazah area) and then settle in for the night after what will have been a very long day.
Overnight in Alexandria
Day 2: Ancient Alexandria and a host of Greek and Roman ruins
Alexandria National Museum, the Roman Amphitheater, Catcombs of Kom El-Shoqafa, Pompey’s Pillar, Graeco-Roman Museum
Photo: Shivani Singh04, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons. Cropped
Morning
Breakfast at Mohamed Ahmed Restaurant
Do not eat in the hotel this morning, even if it offers breakfast! Instead, head for breakfast at Mohamed Ahmed restaurant (also known as Foul Mohamed Ahmed), Alexandria’s famed diner offering dishes of cooked fava beans (foul or ful, in Arabic) alongside other Egyptian plates.
The restaurant is known for attracting tourists and many foreigners, including known international figures. Those visits are documented with photos hanging all over the walls. The restaurant is great, with good food and a nice atmosphere, so you will surely enjoy it.
Alexandria National Museum
After breakfast head to the Alexandria National Museum, which holds a wealth of artifacts dating back to antiquity. It’s about a 20-minute walk from the restaurant, or a 10 minute Uber/InDrive ride.
The most attractive of the antiquities housed here are the ones testifying to the Ptolemeic era of Ancient Egypt, where the Pharaonic and Greek art styles fused together. For example, you will see pharaoh-like statues with faces carrying Greek or Roman features (curly hair etc…). It’s pretty fascinating.
The museum is not especially big, so around 2 hours should definitely be enough for you to cover everything.
Alexandria National Museum. Photo: Néfermaât, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
Roman Amphitheater
After visiting the musuem, it’s time to make your way to the Roman Amphitheater, which is another 20-minute walk or 10 minute drive.
Founded in the 4th century AD, the theatre is one of the best touristic attractions in Alexandria, and like any typical Roman theater, consists of a small stage surrounded by an auditorium and the many rooms behind the theatre.
In the middle of the stage you will find a small circle. Stand on this circle facing the auditorium. When you speak, you will feel the amazing effect of the inimitable acoustics of the location. The Romans were truly geniuses.
The Roman Amphitheater of Alexandria. Photo: Codex, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa
Located 15 minutes away from the Roman Theatre, the Catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa are one of the most beautiful Greco-Roman sites in Alexandria. They are not often included in the standard tourist trips, but are a real gem. If you need directions, don’t ask for the “Catacombs” though, as the locals know the area simply as Kom El-Shoqafa.
This multi-story necropolis and royal cemetery will transport you back in time to Greco-Roman Alexandria. Some of the artifacts on display date back to the 2nd century AD! Similar to the National Museum, it’s very interesting to see the fusion between the Ancient Egyptian and Greco-Roman cultures and styles.
Pay attention to the many ornaments and statues that speak to centuries of art and disparate socio-religious practices joined together into one.
The site is quite large, with a host of different rooms spread out over 3 levels, and there are often relatively long lines to get into them, so expect to spend at least an hour here if you want to visit most of the complex.
The catacombs of Kom El-Shoqafa. Photo: Asiatologist, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Afternoon
Pompey’s Pillar
From the catacombs, continue your day of exploring ancient Alexandria by visiting Pompey’s Pillar, an almost 2,000 year-old Roman pillar that is the only ancient ruin in the city still standing in its original location.
Built on a rocky plateau overlooking the sea and the city, this is where the Serapeum of Alexandria once stood, which was the largest Greek temple in the city. Unfortunately, there are essentially no above-ground remnants of the temple today.
There’s not a ton to see here, but the towering column is super impressive, the sphinx statue is very photogenic, and the tunnels leading to the underground library are quite cool. 30 minutes to an hour is all you need.
While you can walk there from the catacombs, I’d suggest a taking a cab as the walk is not very pleasant.
Pompey’s Pillar. Photo: Ahmed Yousry Mahfouz, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Feteer lunch in the downtown area
Now, head for a late lunch in one of the city’s downtown restaurants as you’ll already be in the area, more or less. Alexandria is pretty cosmopolitan, so you’ll find lots of places offering international cuisine, but I suggest skipping those and instead choosing somewhere that you can try Feteer.
Feteer is an Egyptian pastry made of many thin layers of dough, and filled either savory toppings (meats, cheeses, vegetables) or sweets (jam, coconut, mehalabiya, malban, nutella, or chocolate).
The city center, known as Mahatet El-Raml, has a few very good places to try feteer. You can also order some as take-away and enjoy it later in the evening.
The Graeco-Roman Museum
Reopened in 2023 to great fanfare after almost 20 years of renovations, this is the first purpose-built museum in Egypt (the original structure anyways), and it holds an amazing collection of artifacts from the Greek, Roman, and Ptolemaic periods. You’ll also find some Byzantine and Coptic pieces, making for a rather varied display.
The building is impressive enough in its own right, but the treasures inside are truly excellent.
Late afternoon and evening
Just relax and enjoy the city!
After a morning and afternoon spent visiting ancient sites and museums, I think the best way to wrap up your time in Alexandria is to just relax and forget about any specific sights.
You could head down to the corniche for a waterfront stroll, wander around downtown and check out the Souk Al-Attarine market, and/or make your way over to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.
Souk Al-Attarine: just to the west of the main train station is the market area, where you’ll find vendors selling just about everything. Spread out over a couple of streets, this was once a great spot to pick up antiques, and while a few vendors still sell genuine antiques, that’s mostly a thing of the past.
Chandeliers and watches are two other big items here, but even if you don’t intend to buy anything, it’s worth a wonder through as the area is always bustling and filled with commerce.
Bibliotheca Alexandrina: built in honor of the ancient Library of Alexandria, this is a massive waterfront library housed in an architecturally impressive building. There are a couple of small museums within the library, a huge reading hall, and even a planetarium. You won’t spend a ton of time here, but I think it’s a nice spot to check out.
The Bibliotheca Alexandrina. Photo: Nina Aldin Thune, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The library’s main hall. Photo: Carsten Whimster, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Overnight in Alexandria
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