A Local’s Guide to Visiting Torres del Paine, Chile
Without exception, everyone who comes to Torres del Paine National Park is amazed by the raw beauty of this place. Combining majestic mountains, native forests, abundant wildlife, raging rivers, and awe-inspiring glaciers, this has become a world-famous destination for a good reason.
The park’s name, “Torres del Paine”, literally translates as Towers of Paine, and the three ‘towers’ of the massif that the park is named after are one of Chile’s most iconic images, widely recognized as among the most stunning landscapes on earth.
Located almost at the end of South America, in the heart of the Chilean Patagonia, this protected area caters to visitors with a diverse range of interests, and it’s not just a place for adventure seekers. Whether you simply want to relax in incredible surroundings, or are planning some multi-day treks, Torres Del Paine will provide whatever you’re after. Hiking, wildlife observation, horseback riding, sailing, kayaking, glacier excursions, it’s all possible here.
And, of course, let’s not forget that two of the main attractions of the park are its world-renowned ‘W’ and ‘O’ trekking circuits, which lure hikers from all over the globe.
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Table of contents
Introduction to Torres del Paine
Why visit
Where is the park
How to get there
When to visit
How long to spend
Where to stay - best based
Best places to visit
Things to do
Itineraries for the ‘W’ and ‘O’ trekking circuits
An introduction to Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine National Park currently encompasses over 600,000 acres and is one of the most important tourism destinations in Chile, with a rich geological and cultural background. It was declared a national park in 1959 and a biosphere reserve in 1978 to protect the unique ecosystems of Chilean Patagonia.
History of the park
The imposing mountains for which this park is famous are the result of movements of the Earth’s crust that occurred 12 million years ago. These gave rise to the park’s impressive peaks, such as Monte Paine Grande (10,000 ft), the Cuernos del Paine (ranging between 7,200 and 8,530 ft), and the Torres del Paine (ranging between 7,300 and 8,200 ft), after which the park is named.
The area that the park encompasses was once the traditional lands of the native Aónikenk or Tehuelche people, who began to roam this area approximately 7,000 years ago. These nomadic indigenous communities knew the territory by heart, so they established their camps (aike) at the best hunting sites.
In 1520, following Ferdinand Magellan’s discovery of the Strait of Magellan, the Aónikenk began trading regularly with Spanish sailors, who called them Patagones.
However, the Aónikenk population began to decline in the mid-1800’s, when huge ranches or estancias took over Patagonia. As a result, there was less free land available for these native peoples. Although livestock production here diminished over the following century, the way of life of the Patagonian cowboys - or baqueanos - in these farms remains, and many people still make a living today on breeding sheep and preparing the famous lamb barbecue for tourists.
Geography and the park’s flora and fauna
Along with the high peaks of the Macizo Paine Mountain Range (also known as Cordillera Paine), Torres del Paine National Park encompasses an extensive network of rivers, lakes, lagoons, and waterfalls. All of them originate in the Southern Ice Field, from where they flow north-to-south to Seno Última Esperanza.
The park’s vegetation is affected by the area’s significant rainfall and winds, typical of Patagonia. The plains – or pampas – are dominated by medium-to-low-height grasslands. As the altitude increases, these expanses give way to native forests of lenga beech (Nothafagus pumilio) and other tree species.
Above 3,000 ft, plants begin to disappear, leaving only some grasses, mosses, and lichens. Finally, where rainfall is very low and winds are too strong, all vegetation becomes scarce, giving way to the Andean Desert and the glaciers.
These varied environments harbor a wide range of native wildlife species. These include mammals such as pumas, huemul deer, and guanacos (a wild camelid related to llamas), as well as birds such as ñandús or rheas (flightless birds similar to an ostrich), condors, flamingos, wild geese, and woodpeckers, among a great diversity of waterfowl.
Why visit
Lakes full of birds, glaciers, icebergs, rivers, oak and beech forests, and extensive pampas make Torres del Paine National Park a perfect destination for anyone interested in nature. You can choose to undertake the world-famous ‘W’ and ‘O’ multi-day trekking circuits or explore at a more relaxed pace, taking advantage of the 60 miles of roads that lead to many of the area’s most iconic sites.
The park’s diverse environments provide plenty of opportunities for observing wildlife in the pampas and the lenga forest, as well as birdwatching in lakes such as Laguna Amarga, Lake Sarmiento, and Lake Pehoé. You can also book horseback riding tours to Lake Nordenskjöld, Ascencio Valley, and base de las Torres (foothill of the towers). Or, for a unique culture experience, spend half a day among the baqueanos, learning their way of life.
If you like sailing, you’ll enjoy the 30-minute ferry crossing in Lake Pehoé, but you’ll also have the chance to embark on longer journeys to visit stunning glaciers. The first one is around Lake Grey and approaches the glacier (it’s a 2-hour trip), while the second will take you down the Serrano River to reach the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers, passing through the Última Esperanza fjord (5-hour trip).
Kayaking enthusiasts will have the chance to practice this sport in Lake Grey, rowing towards the eastern side of Grey Glacier, close to large floating ice floes and its giant ice walls, and down Grey River until reaching Villa Serrano.
Because the park protects fragile ecosystems and has been affected by extensive wildfires in the past, some activities are not allowed, while others can only be practiced as long as you are accompanied by a qualified guide. For instance, some activities - like swimming - are not allowed at all in the protected area’s bodies of water (lakes, lagoons, and rivers), while others - like kayaking – can be practiced only if you hire excursions with authorized tour operators.
Torres del Paine National Park is managed by the National Forestry Corporation (CONAF by its acronym in Spanish). Its administrative headquarters are located in Villa Monzino, and it also runs ranger stations at the following locations: Pingo, Coirón, Dickson, Los Perros, Paso, Glaciar Grey, Pingo, Paine Grande, Italiano, Torres, and Pehoé.
For detailed information in English on what activities are banned or regulated, check out the park’s official brochure. Following these guidelines will make your experience more enjoyable and safer.
Where is Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine National Park is located 1,740 miles south of Santiago, Chile’s capital, and is in the Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica Region. This is the southernmost of the country’s 16 administrative regions, as well as the largest.
Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales are located 194 and 70 miles south of Torres del Paine National Park, respectively, and are the closest cities to this protected area.
Tourism is one of the main economic activities here, given that 52% of the region’s territory is encompassed by 14 protected areas, including Torres del Paine National Park, Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, and Cape Horn National Park.
The park is quite close to the border with Argentina, and also one of the main protected areas in the Patagonia ecosystem shared by both countries. In fact, on the west, it borders with Bernardo O’Higgins National Park in Chile, and with Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina, to the north.
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How to get here
This part of Patagonia is cut off from the rest of the country by a network of fjords, glaciers, and mountains. Therefore, the only way to get to Torres del Paine National Park is by first traveling to the nearby cities of Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales by plane. From either city, you can rent a car, hire a private transfer, or take a public bus to one of the park’s three gates: Laguna Amarga, Río Serrano, and Lago Sarmiento.
A 3.5-hour flight will take you from Santiago to either Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. All three domestic airlines (LATAM, Sky Airlines, and Jet Smart) provide this service, but only LATAM flies to Puerto Natales on a daily basis.
You’ll need to check before your trip, though, because flight frequencies may change during the low season (usually from April to October) or due to other unforeseen factors.
Getting to the park by car
If you want to rent a car, your options will vary according to whether you arrive in Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. If you arrive in Punta Arenas, you can find providers and rates at Discover Cars, an online aggregator of car companies. You can book directly through the site and even request a “meet and greet” with the local car company at the Punta Arenas airport.
Alternatively, if you arrive to Puerto Natales instead, you’ll need to first head into the city’s downtown, where car rental offices are located. Some providers worth looking at are: Europcar, Avis, and a local company called EMSA.
Once you have your car and are ready to depart for the park, you’ll need to travel along Route 9, a well maintained and paved road that connects Punta Arenas with Puerto Natales. It’s about 155 miles or a roughly 3-hour drive from Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales.
From there, you can choose between two roads:
The first one– also known as ‘the old road’ - is the continuation of Route 9. It passes through Villa Cerro Castillo and covers nearly 96 miles (37 of which are paved), leading to the Lago Sarmiento and Laguna Amarga gates. This option requires a 2-hour drive and a 4x4 vehicle.
The second road consists of taking Route 9 from Puerto Natales for a few miles and then turning left to take Route Y-290, which covers 50 miles and passes through the Mylodon Cave Natural Monument, eventually leading to the Río Serrano gate. This option requires a 1.5-hour drive.
Getting to the park by bus
If your flight arrives in Punta Arenas, you’ll see that the company Bus-Sur has departures from the airport to Puerto Natales almost every hour for approximately $10 USD.
During the high season (September to April), the same company runs a route between the Puerto Natales bus station and Torres del Paine National Park, with departures at 7:00 AM and 12:00 PM. The bus stops at the following locations within the National Park: Laguna Amarga gate; Pudeto; Camping Pehoé; the park’s administrative headquarters in Villa Monzino; and Hotel Lago Grey.
The bus takes roughly 2 hours to get to the Laguna Amarga gate. It then retraces its steps on the way back to Puerto Natales.
Two other companies, Buses Gómez and Base Torres, also provide transportation into the park, but only up to the Laguna Amarga gate.
One-way tickets range from $12 to $20 USD. You can check timetables and rates on the following websites, each featuring both Spanish and English dashboards: https://kupos.cl/en and https://www.recorrido.cl/en
Crossing from Argentina
Finally, some people come to the park direcrtly from Argentina. If this is the case for you, you’ll need to travel approximately 4.5 hours from the city of El Calafate (in Argentina) and cross the border with Chile, then continuing on to either Puerto Natales (about 220 miles away), or Torres del Paine National Park (around 130 miles away).
There are three border crossings in the area: Paso Río Don Guillermo - located in Villa Cerro Castillo and 30 miles from the Lago Sarmiento gate; Paso Casas Viejas, leading to Puerto Natales; and Paso Dorotea, leading to Villa Dorotea, which is just a few miles north of Puerto Natales.
When to visit
Due to the influence of the Pacific Ocean and the separating effect created by the Andes Mountain Range, average annual temperatures do not exceed 39° F in Torres del Paine National Park.
So, although it’s always pretty cold here, the best time to visit is during the Spring to Summer season, which is from September to April. During this period, temperatures are higher than at other times of year and there are more attractions and activities available as everything is open and in full swing for the season.
Because of the park’s latitude, summertime days are longer than in the rest of the country, which provides more time for activities and opportunities to take advantage of the comparatively good weather.
If you want to avoid crowds and don’t mind colder weather, you could also consider visiting in the shoulder season months of September and April.
Just be aware that all of Patagonia is notorious for having unpredictable and rapidly changing weather. In fact, it’s not uncommon that you’ll have step out into a bright, sunny day, and then only 15 minutes later find yourself running for shelter from pouring rain and wind.
Below is a quick summary of what to expect during each season:
Summer (December to March)
This is the most popular season for visiting the Park, due to the long days, warmer temperatures, and the full availability of attractions and activities. However, during these months you’ll encounter strong winds and a high chance of rain.
Daily temperatures range between 42° F and 68° F, so you’ll have warm days and cool nights. You’ll also enjoy 13 to 17 hours of light per day, depending on the month.
Autumn (March to June)
This is a great time to visit Torres del Paine. The lengas forests are covered in shades of red, orange, and yellow, while the mountain peaks are covered with snow. The chance of rain and snow is usually greater towards the end of the season.
Daily temperatures range between 26° F and 55° F, so both days and nights are cold. Daylight hours will also decrease to between 8 or 11 hours of light per day, depending on the month.
Winter (June to September)
Given its location in the Magellanic pampa, during the winter months the polar front has a greater influence on the park’s weather. As a result, temperatures drop, winds are less intense, and humidity and precipitation (sometimes in the form of snow) increase.
However, because of the beautiful views of snow-capped mountains and the fact that there are less crowds, many people prefer to visit at this time, even if some of the attractions and services are closed. For instance, the ’O’ circuit is closed during the winter.
Daily temperatures range between 26° F and 46° F, so both days and nights are cold. Daylight hours will last between 8 to 12 hours per day, depending on the month.
Spring (September to December)
This is a very pleasant time to explore the park. You’ll see vegetation beginning to bloom, as well as birds and other wildlife caring for their newborn. Days are long and sunny, with blue skies, light rains, and mild weather, but strong winds.
Daily temperatures range between 37° F and 64° F, so it can range from chilly to warm during the day, while the nights are always cold. You’ll enjoy approximately 12 to 17 hours of daylight per day, depending on the month.
Seasonal changes in park operations
During the summer, the park is open from Monday to Sunday, with opening hours from 7:00 AM to 9:00 PM. The park’s house may be reduced during the winter season or due to unforeseen events. I always recommend checking for updated information on the conditions of attractions, roads, and services within the park on its official website.
Entrance tickets
Note that entrance tickets to the park must be bought online at least 24 hours in advance through the dedicated website. There are different rates depending on whether you buy a 3-day pass (approximately $32 USD) or a pass for more than three days (roughly $46 USD).
How long to spend in Torres del Paine
For visitors to the park who are primarily interested in a regular sightseeing tour, 3 days is typically about the right amount of time. You could of course spend many more days here, but assuming you don’t have unlimited time, 3 days will give you a good taste of the park.
However, if you want to attempt any of the multi-day trekking circuits, you’ll need to plan for more time. The ‘W’ circuit will require you to stay for 5 to 7 days, while the ‘O’ circuit will demand between 7 to 10 days, depending on your trekking experience.
Keep in mind that the city of Punta Arenas is often the starting point from where visitors continue on to the park, and it takes about 5 hours to travel between the two destinations. This means that even if you get a very early start on your first day in the region, you still won’t reach the park until the early afternoon.
Alternatively, if you’ll be arriving directly into Puerto Natales, you could accomplish more on your first day, as the city is only about 1.5 hours from the park.
Assuming you aren’t planning any multi-day treks and just intend to visit on a sightseeing tour, here’s how I’d suggest spending 3 days in the region and visiting the park:
Day 1 - Fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas
Take an early 3.5-hour flight to Punta Arenas. While you could fly into Puerto Natales, which is closer to the park, I recommend Punta Arenas as this will give you a chance to take a sailing trip to Los Pingüinos Natural Monument or Francisco Coloane Marine Park, where you can observe birds, whales, and other marine wildlife.
In the evening, continue on to Puerto Natales, as staying overnight here tonight will mean that you can reach the park fairly early tomorrow.
Day 2 - Torres del Paine - overnight in the park
On your first full day in the park, I’d suggest joining an organized tour that stops at all the main attractions, and gives you a chance to make some short treks to fantastic lookout points. Make sure that your tour include stops at Puente Negro, Mirador Nordenskjöld, Mirador Sarmiento, Lake Pehoé, and Salto Grande waterfall.
Later in the day, go for a hike along the southern shore of Lake Grey and check out the floating icebergs, or take a luxurious catamaran trip across the lake to Grey Glacier.
Day 3 - Torres del Paine - overnight in the park
Today, you should do two different half-day excursions, one in the morning and the other in the afternoon. I’d suggest a tour to Lake Laguna Azul, and then a visit to the lenga forest.
The first excursion will take you to the quiet shore of Lake Laguna Azul, where you can take a 30-minute walk amidst the impressive views of the Towers. The second activity will allow you to trek part of the ‘O’ circuit along the eastern slope of the Macizo Paine, through an ancient lenga beech forest.
Several tour operators and accommodations offer a wide array of half-day or full-day excursions that you can choose from if you have other preferences.
Where to stay - best bases
Punta Arenas
Puerto Natales. Photo: Heretiq, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
There are three main places where you can stay when visiting Torres del Paine National Park. Each of them has its own charm and plenty of possibilities to organize an unforgettable trip.
Punta Arenas
This is the capital city of the Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica Region and an important tourism hub. With a population of approximately 145,000 people, it is the largest urban center in this area and its main economic activities are livestock rearing and trade, thanks to its privileged location next to the Strait of Magellan.
From here, you can also hire boat tours to Los Pingüinos Natural Monument, which protects the penguin colonies on Magdalena and Marta islands, and to Francisco Coloane Marine Park, where you can see whales between December and April.
The city is also a tax-free zone (zona franca) with a shopping center (ZonAustral) that houses more than 100 shops.
In Punta Arenas, you’ll find all kinds of services and plenty of accommodations for any budget, including hostels, serviced apartments, and four-star hotels. Its international airport, the southernmost in our country, receives lots of traffic.
Puerto Natales
Located approximately 150 miles north of Punta Arenas, this small city is considered the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park, and the nearly 25,000 people who live here mainly rely on tourism for their livelihood.
You can find all kinds of services and grocery stores in Puerto Natales, which is important, because once you’re in Torres del Paine National Park, you’ll have very limited options to purchase goods, and even if they are available, they tend to be expensive. Additionally, there are no ATMs inside the park and its surroundings. Therefore, it’s advisable to withdraw money or exchange currency in Puerto Natales.
The city is well accustomed to hosting tourists and it boasts a broad array of lodging options including hostels, serviced apartments, and even five-star hotels.
If you plan to spend a little time in town, you can visit the Historical Museum, go for a city tour by bike, enjoy a light trek up the nearby Cerro Dorotea (which reaches an altitude of 2,624 feet and provides great views of the city), check out the Última Esperanza fjord, and the Almirante Montt Gulf.
From Puerto Natales, you can also organize excursions to Estancia La Península or to Mylodon Cave Natural Monument, which protects the site where the remains of an extinct prehistoric giant sloth known as Mylodon were found.
Torres del Paine
The park itself will of course be your main base of operations if you plan to visit for anything longer than just a day trip. There are several lodging options within the park, ranging from backpacker campsites to a 5-star all-inclusive hotel.
The park has very strict regulations and some of these will determine your actual accommodation alternatives, depending on your travel dates and program, among other things. For instance, if you’re planning to undertake any of the multi-day trekking circuits, you must book with the corresponding hostels (refugios) or campsites ahead of time and show proof of your reservation; otherwise, you will not be allowed to go into the mountain area.
Keep in mind that the ‘O’ circuit encompasses most of the ‘W’ circuit, so sometimes you will find accommodation options overlapping. Here’s a broad overview of what you can expect to find in terms of lodging and food.
Accommodation options in Torres del Paine National Park
Hotels
There are seven hotels within the park and all of them have on-site restaurants. Hotels are a great option if you want an all-inclusive experience or are planning on a short stay and won’t be doing any of the multi-day trekking circuits.
The hotels, heading from east to west within the park are: Tierra Patagonia, Hotel Las Torres, Hostería Pehoé, Hotel Explora Torres del Paine, Hotel Lago Grey, Hotel del Paine, and Hotel Río Serrano.
Hostels (Refugios)
There are six hostels (refugios) within the park, and they are mostly part of the multi-day trekking circuits and are run by the same companies that organize the camping sites.
Hostels offer shared rooms with single bunk beds (which include a mattress cover, pillow, and pillowcase), shared bathrooms, hot showers, and food service.
Specific meal service alternatives may vary slightly, but usually consist of half-board and full-board plans, as well as individual meals, and boxed lunches that you can take with you when out trekking. Some hostels have small shops.
The Las Torres company runs the following hostels: Refugio Torre Central, Refugio Los Cuernos, and Refugio Francés. They are all part of the ‘O’ circuit.
The other hostels, run by Vertice Travel, are as follows: Refugio Dickson, Refugio Grey, and Refugio Paine Grande. All of them are also part of the ‘O’ circuit.
Campsites
There are nine campsites within the park, some of which are part of the multi-day trekking circuits, and all of which are run by the same two companies mentioned above.
Some are just campsites, while others are located adjacent to the hostels. Whenever this is the case, they offer the same meal services as those of the hostels. Conversely, stand-alone camping sites provide food services only to visitors who have booked in advance.
Each campsite will give you a series of options for booking at different price points, depending on the services you’re interested in. You can also rent camping equipment at each sight (tent, sleeping mat and sleeping bag), if you don’t want to have to carry all of that gear with you on your hikes. For this, you must reserve well in advance.
The campsites run by Las Torres are, from east to west, as follows: Camping Serón, Camping Sector Las Torres, Camping El Chileno, Camping Los Cuernos, and Camping Francés. All of them are part of the ‘O’ circuit, except for El Chileno, which is only part of the ‘W’ circuit.
The campsites run by Vertice Travel are, from north to south, the following: Camping Dickson, Camping Los Perros, Camping Grey, and Camping Paine Grande.
All of them are part of the ‘O’ circuit, and please be aware that if you do this multi-day trek, you need to book the Dickson and Los Perros campsites together (they can’t be booked individually).
On the eastern shore of Lake Pehoé, you’ll find another campsite that is not part of either of these circuits and is run by a separate company. For more information, visit their website: https://campingpehoe.com/
A note about phone/internet connectivity
There is no cell phone signal in the park, and while hostels have a Wi-Fi network, it is not included in the rate of their programs. If you need to access the internet, you can pay directly at each hostel. The rate will depend on the internet speed and time of use, but it usually costs about $5 USD for 30 minutes of use.
Some shelters turn off the electricity at night, so remember to ask about this at the front desk when you check-in.
Cafés and minimarkets
There are also some isolated cafés and minimarkets at some of the most popular locations in the park.
Traditionally, these can be found at the Park Welcome Center (operated by Hotel Las Torres); in Pudeto, the pier on the eastern shore of Lake Pehoé; and at Guardería Pingo, a ranger station close to Ferrier lookout.
Tips for booking accommodation
The park’s tourism operators recently came together to develop an integrated online booking system. This is a sort of one-stop-shop to book all services within the park. You can access it at: https://www.bookingpatagonia.travel/#/
Other park tips:
Keep in mind that the conditions of attractions, roads, and services within the park may vary. You can find updated information on the official website: https://parquetorresdelpaine.cl
Additionally, you should heed CONAF’s regulations and tips, especially if you’re planning on doing the ‘W’ or ‘O’ trekking circuits. These include:
Plan your trip well. Clearly define the dates you will visit the park and your tour itinerary. Download the official map to see the travel times between each camp and request your booking.
If you cannot secure bookings in all the camping sites you want to visit, you must adapt your itinerary according to the reservations you are able to obtain. Remember that you will not be able to spend the night if you don’t have a reservation.
You can only spend one night in each camping site.
You may leave your heaviest luggage at the Park Welcome Center for a fee, so you don’t have to carry it around.
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Best places to visit in the park
There are, of course, many beautiful places within Torres del Paine National Park. The list below by no means covers everything there is to see here, but it will give you a very good start for the most iconic sites that are easier to visit.
1. Laguna Amarga
Photo: Exstalker, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This small lake with a depth of 13 ft is located very close to the Laguna Amarga gate. The reason for its name is the bitter taste of its waters, due to their high salt content, which leaves a soft white layer on the shore when it evaporates. This attracts many flamingos during the summer.
You’ll find that there’s a strategic lookout from which you can observe and photograph the three towers - Torres del Paine – after which the park is named.
If you go at sunrise or sunset on windless days, you may even see the mountains reflected in the lagoon.
2. Cascada Río Paine
Photo: Jens Bludau, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Located a few miles north of Laguna Amarga, along the road that leads to Laguna Azul, this spectacular waterfall is part of the Paine River. This is the park’s most important watercourse because it supplies water to almost all of its lakes.
Starting at Lake Dickson, its network connects Lake Paine, Lake Nordenskjöld, and Lake Pehoé. You can also see the Torres del Paine from here.
3. Lago Sarmiento
Photo: Cayetano Roso, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Surrounded by the Patagonian steppe, Lake Sarmiento is one of the most unique places in the park. It covers an area of approximately 33 square miles and its average depth is 1,150 feet.
Along the shores, you can find strange and primitive calcium carbonate formations, called thrombolites. They are very similar to coral and are related to the first expressions of life on the planet.
The lookout by the lake will provide you with amazing views of the Macizo Paine.
4. Base de Las Torres Lookout
This lookout, located at an altitude of 2,300 feet, is the closest point from which you can appreciate the characteristic mountains of the park. The Macizo Paine is small but encompasses the three towers, which stand like granite giants shaped by the force of glacial ice.
The South Tower (also known as Di Agostini) rises over 8,200 feet, the Central Tower reaches an altitude of 8,100 feet, and the North Tower (also known as Monzino) is the smallest, with an altitude of 7,420 feet. You will also have great views of the Peineta and Nido de Cóndores hills from the lookout.
To get here, you’ll need to undertake a full-day trek (approximately 8 hours round-trip) through amazing landscapes, crossing hanging bridges, and ascending between rocks.
Starting at Hotel Las Torres, you will go up through Ascencio Valley, and then walk through lenga forests that will take you to the glacial moraine, which you must climb for about an hour to reach the base de las Torres (foothill of the towers).
This trek is one of the sections of the famous ‘W’ circuit.
5. Lake Nordenskjöld and Salto Grande Waterfall
Salto Grande waterfall. Photo: Thomas Fuhrmann, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Located at the foot of the Los Cuernos mountains and fed by the Paine River, Lake Nordenskjöld covers an area of approximately 11 square miles and has an average depth of 650 feet. Its turquoise waters flow south towards the Salto Grande, a 213-foot-high waterfall that flows into Lake Pehoé.
The Nordenskjöld lookout provides amazing views of this breathtaking landscape, which remains beautiful despite being among the areas most heavily damaged by the fires that affected the national park in 2011. To reach this lookout, you’ll walk along a trail that leads through fields of wildflowers.
Just 1 mile from the main route, the Salto Grande lookout is also a great place to see this impressive waterfall up close. It’s located near the pier that connects the lake with the Pudeto sector, and you can reach it by walking up a trail or by car with a 4x4, using the vehicle road.
Go with rain jackets and warm clothing to protect yourself from the cold and strong winds that sometimes may blow water your way.
6. Lake Pehoé
Often identified as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, Lake Pehoé covers an area of approximately 8.5 square miles and its waters sometimes reflect the Cuernos del Paine. There are lookouts on both the eastern and western shores of the lake, from where you can see the Paine Grande and Almirante Nieto mountains.
You can take a ferry to cross it, from the piers at Pudeto on the east, and Paine Grande on the west. The latter is the starting point for the trail up to the Francés Valley.
7. Grey Glacier and Lake
Photo: Felipe.alarcon, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Grey Glacier is the largest glacier in the park, measuring 4 miles wide by 12 miles long, and standing 100 feet high. Since it’s an active glacier, stemming from the Southern Ice Field, you’ll be able to witness icebergs falling from it into Lake Grey.
You can get up-close views of this glacier from the Grey and Playa Glaciar Grey lookouts. They are both great spots to take beautiful pictures. Alternatively, you can join boat or kayaking excursions with authorized local operators.
8. Villa Cerro Castillo
Photo: Manxuc, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
This small village of approximately 400 people is located 34 miles from the Laguna Amarga gate, halfway between Puerto Natales and the Torres del Paine National Park on Route 9. The town is characterized by its buildings with red roofs and white walls, which stand out against the area’s blue skies and green meadows.
It’s also a fantastic place to learn about the way of life of the baqueanos, or Patagonian cowboys, whose adventurous spirit is honored by the Monument to the Horse at the town entrance.
This village has flourished on the lands originally belonging to Estancia Cerro Castillo, one of the largest in the region. You’ll be surprised to see an imposing 28,000 square foot shearing shed built in the early 1900’s that is still standing.
9. Mylodon Cave Natural Monument
Located approximately 15 miles north of Puerto Natales and on the way to the park, this protected area is made up of three caves where remains of mylodons were found. These were large herbivorous mammals that probably became extinct at the end of the last glacial period, approximately 11,700 years ago.
In addition to the three caves, there is a rock formation called ‘the Devil’s seat’. Strategically placed lookouts provide excellent views of the area and its surrounding mountains.
The Monument is open Monday to Sunday from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Entrance tickets to the park cost roughly US $12 and must be bought online at least 24 hours ahead of time through the dedicated website.
What to do in Torres del Paine
1. Trek the ‘W’ and ‘O’ multi-day circuits
These circuits attract trekking fans from all over the world and there are plenty of dedicated websites and blogs with opinions and tips on how to tackle them. You’ll also find standard itineraries for both of them in the following section of this guide. Therefore, I’ll just provide a brief overview of each circuit here.
The ‘W’ circuit
This is considered a medium-to-high difficulty circuit. It covers approximately 47 miles and takes between 4 to 5 days to complete. The route takes you through the most important landmarks of the park, forming the shape of a ‘W’ along the way.
You will visit Ascencio Valley, the base of the Towers, Lake Nordenskjöld, Los Cuernos sector, the Francés Valley, Paine Grande, and Grey Glacier.
Although the circuit can be hiked starting from the east or the west, it is usually done starting in the east. However, you will experience part of it from the west if you undertake the ‘O’ circuit.
The ‘O’ circuit
Also known as the Macizo Paine Circuit, this medium-to-high difficulty trail takes visitors on a counterclockwise circle around the Macizo Paine. It covers approximately 83 miles and takes 7 to 10 days to complete.
The route starts at Hotel Las Torres and encompasses landmarks in the northern part of the park, such as the Encantado Valley, Paine and Los Perros rivers, lakes Paine and Dickson, Dickson and Los Perros glaciers, and John Gardner Pass. This is the highest section of the circuit, at an altitude of nearly almost 4,000 ft, and offers a privileged view of the Southern Ice Field and impressive suspension bridges.
The trail then reaches Grey Glacier and the Playa Glaciar Grey lookout. At this point, it joins the W circuit, but does not include the trails into the Francés and Ascencio valleys.
The ‘O’ circuit can only be hiked in one direction (from east to west). This is one of the things most trekkers like about it, because it means that you don’t constantly run into people going the other way, like on the ‘W’ circuit. Don’t forget that the ‘O’ circuit is not open during the winter!
The John Gardner Pass is the most difficult section of the hike, so here are some tips for surviving and enjoying it like a pro:
Wear crampons if you have them. They will help a lot if you hit snow while going through the pass and coming down the slope.
Start the hike between 4:00 and 6:00 AM when it’s still dark, so that you can enjoy the view of the glaciers as the sun comes up.
This is especially important because there are cut-off times to access John Gardner Pass and a few other sections of the circuit. You are usually not allowed to enter the trail section to the pass after 9:00 a.m.
However, these times may be modified by the park administration depending on weather conditions. For instance, some trails will be closed if wind speed exceeds 50 mph, or if the presence of ice or snow do not allow good accessibility. For detailed information in English on the closure time for each trail section, check out the park’s official brochure.
2. Be an archaeologist for a day
While here, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to explore archaeological sites where some remarkable discoveries have been made, both within Torres del Paine National Park and in its surroundings.
The most prominent is the Mylodon Cave Natural Monument. This protected area is a worthwhile stop to learn about an extinct prehistoric giant sloth known as Mylodon. There are three trails that will take you to different attractions.
The Cueva Grande (Large Cave) interpretive trail takes 30 minutes to complete and leads from the administration to the foot of the main attraction, the Mylodon Cave.
The Mirador (Lookout) trail takes 45 minutes to complete and leads to the roof of the Mylodon Cave, where you’ll find a lookout with great views of the area and surrounding mountains.
The Cuevas y Aleros (Caves and Eaves) trail takes between 3 to 4 hours to complete. It starts at a rock formation called the Devil's Seat and passes the Cueva Chica (Small Cave) and Cueva del Medio (Middle Cave), important sites where remains of extinct fauna and the first human inhabitants of Cerro Benítez have been found.
To learn more about these first inhabitants, I suggest taking the Patagón Half-Day Tour offered by Hotel Las Torres within the park. On the tour, you’ll take a van to Lago Sarmiento gate, from where you’ll walk nearly 6 miles along mainly flat terrain visiting sites where the Aónikenk native peoples left stunning rock paintings.
You will also see guanacos and other wildlife along the way.
3. Hike along the park’s shorter trails
If you’re not up for a multi-day trek, don’t despair! The park has several shorter and easier trails that will still take you to beautiful places. Each of the following out-and-back trails can be completed in under three hours.
Salto Grande – Mirador Los Cuernos: This low-difficulty trail along Lake Nordenskjöld runs for approximately 3 miles and takes roughly 2 hour to complete, round trip. It starts at the Pudeto pier and ends at the Los Cuernos lookout, from where you’ll have fantastic views of these mountains.
Camping Lago Pehoé – Mirador Cóndor: This low-difficulty trail from Lake Pehoé runs for approximately 2 miles and takes around 1.5 hours to complete, out and back. It starts at the Lake Pehoé campsite and goes up to the Cóndor lookout, which provides amazing views of the lake and dozens of aquatic birds. If you’re lucky, you can even spot a condor.
Puente Weber – Mirador Lago Toro: This easy to moderate trail from Lake Toro runs for approximately 2.5 miles and takes close to 1.5 hours to complete, round-trip. It starts just a few feet from the bridge Puente Weber and goes up to the Lago Toro lookout, from where you can see the place where the Paine River joins the lake.
Guardería Pingo – Pier: This low-difficulty trail along Lake Grey runs for approximately 3 miles and takes close to 2 hour to complete, round trip.
It starts at the Pingo Ranger Station, passes through lush lenga forests, crosses the bridge over the Pingo River, and continues to the lake shore, ending at the pier where you can board the ferry to sail to the glacier.
4. Organize your own wildlife safari
While in the park, you will have ample opportunity to observe and photograph wildlife. The lenga forests found on the eastern slopes of the Macizo Paine, as well as around lakes Pehoé and Grey, are home to Magellanic woodpeckers, southern parakeets, and other forest birds.
In contrast, the open landscapes of the pampas – grasslands – around Lake Pehoé and Lake Nordenskjöld are dominated by the area’s largest wildlife species. These are the guanaco (the wild relative of the llama), the puma (cougar), and the ñandú (rhea, a flightless bird similar to an ostrich).
Although all the park’s lakes are known for their abundance of aquatic birds, Lake Laguna Amarga and Lake Sarmiento stand out because during the summer they attract flocks of the Chilean flamingo, one of the three flamingo species found in the country.
Other species commonly seen swimming in these lakes are black-necked swans, ringed kingfishers, and Magellan geese. Lake Grey and its surroundings are also great places to spot pumas and, if you’re very lucky, a huemul (a native endangered deer).
5. Head out on sailing and kayaking expeditions
If you like sailing, you’ll be able to enjoy this activity in three places within the national park: Lake Pehoé, Lake Grey, and the Serrano River. These boat trips will allow you to experience the park from a totally different perspective.
The ferry crossing of Lake Pehoé is something that many people do as part of the ‘W’ and ‘O’ circuits, usually when leaving the park. However, the navigation is in itself a worthwhile activity, and anyone can do it. The trip lasts 30 minutes and connects the Pudeto and Paine Grande sectors, with beautiful landscapes along the way. You can check schedules and rates on their website.
Sailing and kayaking around Lake Grey are also fantastic experiences. Hotel Lago Grey operates a ferry that provides a 2-hour navigation from the southern shore of the lake to the massive wall of ice that is the Grey Glacier.
The only way to reach the ferry pier is to undertake the Guardería Pingo - Pier trail mentioned above, which takes nearly 1 hour to complete. You can check schedules and rates on here.
Additionally, Vertice Travel offers 2.5-hour kayaking excursions to the glacier, departing from the lake’s northeastern shore, next to Refugio Grey. You can find more information here.
Vertice Travel also organizes navigation tours down the Serrano River, heading southwest from Lake Grey. A 5-hour navigation to the Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers will provide you with amazing views of Tyndall Glacier and Monte Balmaceda. You will also be able to walk through a lush native forest and have a traditional lunch at an estancia.
The excursion includes a visit to the neighboring and largely unexplored Bernardo O'Higgins National Park, the largest park in South America, covering more than 8.5 million acres. Full tour details can be found on their website.
6. Experience the baqueano way of life
Although the economic importance of livestock estancias has greatly diminished over the last century, the way of life of the Patagonian cowboys, or baqueanos, in these farms remains, with many people still making a living on sheep breeding and preparing the famous lamb barbecue on a stick (asado de cordero al palo). You can experience life as a baqueano both inside and outside the park.
Hotel Las Torres offers half-day tours to live the Baqueano cultural experience by spending a morning with Patagonian cowboys and cowgirls who are descendants of the people who came to work the ranches in this remote region over a century ago.
They will tell you about their special clothing, show you how to properly saddle a horse, and share a mate, an herbal tea made from yerba mate leaves.
This is also a great opportunity to taste some Chilean delights, such as sopaipillas con pebre, a classic combination of fried pumpkin bread and fresh salsa.
With a population of approximately 400 people and located midway between the park and Puerto Natales, Villa Cerro Castillo is also a great place to experience the baqueano way of life and try some local foods.
The town celebrates a Chilean Fest each year at the end of January, which lasts three days and during which attendees can enjoy horseback riding, rodeo, folklore, typical foods, crafts, live music, and much more.
At Villa Cerro Castillo, you can have lamb barbecue on a stick and see how they cook it for hours over low heat. Or you can opt for a Patagonian steak, which consists of a sandwich made with delicious pieces of meat, four fried eggs, onion, and cheese, all contained in a crispy kneaded bread.
Another typical flavor you should taste is rhubarb. This plant was introduced by English sailors in the early 20th century and has gained so much importance that locals even celebrate Rhubarb Day on January 28. I definitely recommend you try it in jams and ice cream.
If you feel confident of your horse-riding skills and want to explore the park like a baqueano, you’ll find several tour operators offering horseback riding tours to visit landmarks such as the foothill of the Towers, Los Cuernos, and Lake Nordenskjöld. This will undoubtedly be the trip of a lifetime!
Connect with a Chile travel expert for help perfecting your itinerary, answers to all your travel questions, and fabulous local tips for a better visit!
Itineraries for the ‘O’ and ‘W’ Circuit Treks
The ‘W’ and ‘O’ circuit treks are two of the most famous routes in Chile, and they’re a big part of the reason that many visitors come to Torres del Paine. With that in mind, I’ve put together two sample itineraries for you, each of which is representative of the standard itinerary for these hiking circuits.
‘W’ circuit - 6-day trek from east to west
This is a sample itinerary based on average times and parts of the trail. The exact itinerary will depend on your trekking experience, lodging availability, and any other factor that could affect travel planning.
The ‘W’ circuit is named that way because its route creates the shape of an imaginary ‘W’. It encompasses two of the park’s main valleys - Ascencio on the right and Francés in the middle – along with Grey Glacier to the left.
Day 1 - Santiago to Puerto Natales and on to Torres del Paine
Take an early 3.5-hour flight to Puerto Natales. Travel directly to Torres del Paine or stay in Puerto Natales and then get an early start on Day 2.
On the way to Torres del Paine, visit Mylodon Cave Natural Monument to learn about this huge prehistoric mammal.
Overnight in Puerto Natales or in Central Sector of Torres del Paine
Day 2 - Start of the hike - Ascencio Valley and Mirador Base de las Torres
Embark on the first leg of the ‘W’ circuit, which consists of a round trip of nearly 14 miles that takes approximately 8 hours to complete.
It will lead you up Ascencio Valley to the Mirador Base de las Torres, a lookout from where you will have great views of the towers.
Overnight in Central Sector of Torres del Paine
Day 3 - Lake Nordenskjöld and entrance to Francés Valley
The second leg of the circuit will take you to the entrance of Francés Valley.
Starting at Refugio Chileno, you will trek along the northern shore of Lake Nordenskjöld. You should ideally reach Refugio Los Cuernos or Refugio Francés and stay at any of them before continuing with your journey.
This one-way trek is approximately 9 miles long and takes roughly 7 hours to complete.
Overnight in Refugio Los Cuernos or Refugio Francés
Day 4 - Francés Valley
The third leg of the circuit will take you into the Francés Valley, from Refugio Francés to Refugio Paine Grande. Along the way, you’ll pass the imposing Cuernos de Paine, as well as the Francés and Británico lookouts. From here, you’ll get fantastic views of Francés Glacier.
On the final part of this trek, towards Refugio Paine Grande, you’ll see the Macizo Paine and Lake Sköttsberg.
This one-way trek is approximately 13 miles long and takes nearly 9 hours to complete.
Overnight in Refugio Paine Grande
Day 5 - Lake Grey and Grey Glacier
On the fourth leg of the circuit, you will trek along Lake Grey until you reach Refugio Grey, which is right next to Grey Glacier and its lookout, from where you can see almost blue ice floes falling from the Southern Ice Field into the lake.
This one-way trek is approximately 7.5 miles long and takes roughly 4 hours to complete.
If you can spare the time and you want to get close to the glacier, set aside an extra 3 to 4 hours (round trip) to trek past the Hostel towards the famous suspension bridges. Alternatively, you can book a 2-hour boat trip on the lake that will take you to the edge of the glacier.
Overnight in Refugio Grey
Day 6 - Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
On your last day in Torres del Paine, you’ll trek back to Paine Grande. Here, you’ll board the catamaran that sails Lake Pehoé towards Pudeto, from where you can take the bus or your private transfer back to Puerto Natales and board your flight back to Santiago.
‘O’ Circuit - 9-day trek from east to west
This is also a sample itinerary based on average times and parts of the trail. The exact itinerary will depend on your trekking experience, lodging availability, and any other factor that could affect travel planning.
The ‘O’ Circuit starts in the east at the bottom of Asencio Valley and goes counterclockwise around the park. Most people take 10 days to complete this circuit that guides you through some of the lesser-known areas. The toughest section is John Gardner Pass, which leads to Grey Glacier and is quite muddy and tricky.
Day 1 - Santiago to Puerto Natales and then on to Torres del Paine
Take an early 3.5-hour flight to Puerto Natales. Travel directly to Torres del Paine or stay in Puerto Natales and then get an early start on Day 2.
On the way to Torres del Paine, visit Mylodon Cave Natural Monument to learn about this huge prehistoric mammal.
Overnight in Puerto Natales or in Central Sector of Torres del Paine
Day 2 - Serón Campsite
Embark on the first section of the ‘O’ circuit. Starting at Refugio Las Torres, it will take you to Lake Laguna Amarga and the Serón Campsite.
The trek today is approximately 8 miles and takes between 3 and 4 hours to complete.
Overnight in Camping Serón
Day 3 - Dickson Glacier
The second section of the trail will take you from the Serón campsite to Lake Dickson. You will stop to register at Guardería Coirón (a ranger station), where you can enjoy your boxed lunch at their picnic site with views of Lake Paine.
Along the way, you’ll also see Dickson Glacier, Cerro Cuba, and other steep peaks that mark the border between Chile and Argentina.
The trek today is approximately 11 miles and takes roughly 6 hours to complete.
Overnight in Refugio Dickson or Camping Dickson
Day 4 - Los Perros
Continuing with the third section of the ‘O’ trail, you will trek along Los Perros River until you reach Los Perros Glacier. You will climb a large moraine that will leave you breathless with views of the glacier and its greenish-blue lagoon.
The trek today is approximately 7.5 miles and takes nearly 5 hours to complete.
Overnight in Camping Los Perros
Day 5 - Grey Glacier
The fourth section of the trail will take you from Camping Los Perros to Lake Grey. The trail will take you through forests and rocky slopes until you reach John Gardner Pass, the highest and toughest section, at almost 4,000 ft.
At the Paso checkpoint and campsite, you’ll have fantastic views of Grey Glacier and part of the Southern Ice Field. You will continue along the glacier until you reach Lake Grey and cross the suspension bridges before reaching Refugio Grey.
The trek today is approximately 9 miles and takes between 8 and 9 hours to complete.
Overnight in Refugio Grey
Day 6 - Paine Grande
In this fifth section of the circuit, you will ascend through a mountainous forest until reaching the very windy Grey Glacier lookout. You will then continue trekking until you reach Los Patos Lagoon, where you will begin descending through a narrow and windy valley that takes you directly to the Refugio Paine Grande.
The trek today is approximately 7 miles and takes almost 4 hours to complete.
Overnight in Refugio Paine Grande
Day 7 - Francés Valley
Today, you will undertake the sixth section of the trail and walk through arid landscapes and along the shore of Lake Skottsberg. After approximately 2.5 hours, you will arrive at the Italiano campsite, from where you will begin ascending towards the Francés Valley.
You return along the same path to Camping Italiano and then you must continue towards Refugio Los Cuernos.
The trek today is approximately 7 miles and takes almost 4 hours to complete.
Overnight in Refugio Los Cuernos
Day 8 - Las Torres Sector
The seventh section of the ‘O’ trek will take you to the hanging glaciers of Monte Almirante Nieto (8,760 feet) and you can look for condors while you skirt the captivating blue waters of Lake Nordenskjöld. This section ends at Refugio Las Torres.
The trek today is approximately 9 miles and takes between 4 and 6 hours to complete.
Overnight in Hotel or Refugio Las Torres
Day 9 - Torres del Paine to Puerto Natales
On your final day in Torres del Paine, you will trek up Ascencio Valley to the Mirador Base de las Torres, a lookout from where you will have great views of the towers.
You will be transferred to the Laguna Amarga gate, from where you can take the bus or your private transfer back to Puerto Natales and board your flight back to Santiago.
Departure from the park
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