A Local’s Guide to Lagos, Portugal
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Located in the Western Algarve region of Portugal, Lagos is a coastal city rich in history and deeply connected to the era of Portuguese Discoveries in the 15th century. Today though, most visitors come here for one thing: the dreamy beaches of Lagos’ stunning coastline.
While the sea is the obvious highlight, Lago's’ charming old town is a perfect location to wander traditional cobbled streets, known as “Calçada Portuguesa”, admire colorful Portuguese architecture, and sample great regional specialties and seafood.
During the day, Lagos city center is filled with locals and tourists shopping, working, and traveling. There are few major sites or “must-dos” in town, so its primarily a functional, albeit pleasant, place by day. In the evenings, however, the area becomes lively as diners and revelers, back from days spent at the beach, pack the city’s restaurants and bars.
Whether you’re coming on your own, with friends, as a couple, or as a family with small kids, Lagos offers plenty of activities for every traveler. In addition, it’s location is ideal for day trips to nearby villages, beaches, and the lovely Costa Vicentina Natural Park.
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For more info on travel in the Algarve, check out our Algarve regional guide and this 7-day Algarve itinerary.
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Where is Lagos
Lagos is located in the far southwest of Portugal, within the Algarve, one of the country’s 5 administrative regions. It’s in the western part of the region and is about 90 kilometers away from Faro, the regional capital and largest city.
Lisbon, the national capital, is 300 kms away - about a 3 hour drive. Other popular Algarve towns like Albufeira and Portimão are 30 and 45 minutes away, respectively.
The terrain here is dry and rocky, and the coastal cliffs break often, opening up into long, sandy beaches with golden sand. The area around town has some of the best beaches in Portugal, making Lagos a fabulous place in which to base yourself for a few days of beach hopping.
How to get to Lagos
By plane
For most travers coming from outside of Europe, getting to Lagos will mean first flying to Lisbon and then catching a connecting flight to Faro, the regional capital of the Algarve. Flights from Lisbon to Faro take 45 minutes. From Faro, Lagos is is 90 kms away and the drive, by car, takes one hour.
If you fly into Lisbon, you can also catch a bus directly to Lagos.
If you’re coming from North America, Faro Airport has direct flight connections with Toronto, Canada and Newark, New Jersey. For Americans, beginning in May 2024 United Airlines will offer 4 weekly direct flights between Newark Airport and Faro Airport.
If you’re headed to Lagos from within Europe, you can fly direct from most major cities to Faro and then transfer from there.
By bus
From Lisbon, direct buses to Lagos run daily, with multiple departures. Two companies operate the route: Flixbus and Rede Expressos. The journey takes about 4 hours and tickets cost from 10-20 euros.
From Faro, you have local buses to Lagos that depart frequently throughout the day. Lagos is usually the last stop on the bus line and the journey takes 1-1.5 hours. Tickets cost 3.99 euros. If you fly into Faro and then want to take the bus to Lagos, know that they depart from the city center, not the airport, so you’ll have to take a taxi to the bus terminal to catch your ride.
By train
From Lisbon, you can take the train to Lagos via the national rail service, Comboios de Portugal. There are no direct trains though, so you will have to make a change in the city of Tunes. The journey takes about 4 hours and tickets usually cost around 30 euros.
From Faro, you have more than 10 daily train departures to Lagos. The journey takes 1.5-2 hours depending on the train and tickets cost 7.50€. Like with the bus, the Faro’s train station is in the city center, so you’ll need to get into town from the airport.
Shared shuttles
There are plenty of private, shared shuttle services that go from Faro airport to Lagos. available for booking Faro to Lagos you have other more convenient transportation options. Tickets cost 15-20€ and they’ve available all throughout the day. You can book online in advance or directly on arrival.
By car, Uber/Bolt, taxi, or private transfer
From Lisbon, getting to Lagos by car is a breeze. The drive is all done on the excellent A2 highway, and the journey takes 3 hours.
From Faro, the drive to Lagos takes almost one hour on the dot. You can pick up a car rental directly at Faro airport or in the city center. When driving, you have two routes - the A22 highway and the EN125 national road. The highway is quicker, but the national road is more scenic and better if you want to stop at towns along your route. It also has no tolls.
Uber/Bolt, taxis, and private transfers are also always available from Faro Airport, Faro city center, and just about anywhere else in the Algarve. From Faro to Lagos, figure that a ride will cost from 80€ to 120€, one way. Also, keep in mind these rates increase when traveling during nighttime or carrying heavy luggage.
Renting a car
Lagos has a few small local car rental agencies right in the center of town, but for a better selection you’re better off looking in Portimão about 30 minutes away. Faro, an hour away, has still more choices because the international airport and train station are there.
To check prices and book, I recommend using the following two car rental websites:
DiscoverCars includes offerings from all the major international rental companies as well as lots of smaller local agencies, which often have much better pricing. You can often find great deals.
RentalCars is very similar, although they tend to list mostly larger companies. It’s now owned by Booking.com, so is backed by a familiar and reputable brand. Their prices are good too.
Best time to visit
Visiting in spring or fall - April to early June and September to November
The best time to visit Lagos is between April and June, or between September and November. In both the spring and the fall, the region has pleasant weather with warm, dry days that are good for swimming, but without the blistering heat of summer. The milder weather means that non-beach activities like hiking, cycling, and golf are actually pleasant to do!
This is the best time of the year to get ideal weather and still avoid beach crowds, busy restaurants, poor customer service, and the highest hotel rates. “Did you say ‘poor customer service’?” Yes, I’m afraid! During the summer, the Algarve gets so busy that it becomes extremely difficult to provide the same level of service as you’d get in other parts of the year.
Visiting in summer - Mid June to early September
I always recommend that travelers avoid the Algarve in July and August. Lagos, like most cities in this sunny region, is absolutely packed all throughout the summer. And July and August are the busiest months, with hotels and restaurants fully booked and big crowds at all the beaches.
To give you an idea of how busy it gets, just think of this - the regional population of the Algarve triples during the summertime. Lagos is no exception.
Visiting in winter - December to April
The second-best time of year to visit Lagos is winter. Lagos has incredible Mediterranean weather, meaning that even in winter you’ll get mostly sunny days and temperatures around 15ºC. While not beach weather, if you’re used to cold, rainy, or snowy winters (or a combination of the three!), wintertime in Lagos will be a welcome respite.
Since this is low season, you won’t find the same amount of accommodation options and many restaurants and services will be closed. That said, plenty of visitors come in winter, so you’ll have no problem visiting.
Despite being off season, you should always make your bookings in advance to guarantee availability as the few places that stay open do book out.
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How long to spend in Lagos
Lagos is a lovely historical city with plenty to see and do for a couple of days. While it’s small and compact and you could reasonably explore the town itself in just a day, doing so would be a waste. A visit to Lagos is also about the beaches, coastline, and the surrounding natural area, so you should stay for at least two days to get the most out of a visit.
If you’ve got two days in Lagos, I always recommend that you start off your visit by exploring the Old Town. Have a wander around the charming cobbled streets and admire the traditional architecture. A few landmarks you should definitely stop by during your walking tour at the city walls, Santo António Church, and the city museum.
You could then spend an afternoon at the beach or on a boat trip. One of my favorite nautical excursions is a trip to the Ponta da Piedade headland where you can admire sea caves and mother nature’s grand work. A cruise in the evening at golden hour is especially pleasant.
On your second day, hit the beach in earnest! A few of my favorite are Camilo, D. Ana, and Estudantes. All three are small, cliffside beaches with astounding seascapes. If a full day of beach lounging is too inactive for you, there are plenty of good hiking trails all around.
If you stay for more than two days, you’ll also have time to explore some of the neighboring villages and see more beaches. For villages, Burgau, Praia da Luz, and Salema are all worth a visit. Hikers have no shortage of hiking and walking trails, but if you do somehow exhaust them, just head into the nearby Costa Vicentina Nature Park for even more to do.
Where to stay in Lagos
Praça Luís de Camões in Lagos’ Old Town. Photo: Tibor Kovacs, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Lagos has no shortage of hotels in addition to apartment rentals, serviced flats, and resorts. You’ll find ample accommodation options of every level and every price point. To help you, here are a few of my favorite hotels.
Cascade Wellness Resort - Near Ponta da Piedade, the Cascade Wellness Resort offers the perfect combination of a relaxing atmosphere while being a few minutes away from Lagos city center. Enjoy the spa, golfing or drive to the nearest villages and explore the authentic Algarve.
Cascade’s restaurants offer menus ranging from fine dining to traditional Portuguese food and international cuisine. This resort has hotel rooms and suites, apartments, and villas. During peak season, rates start at 300€ per night.
Casa Mãe Lagos - This is a small boutique hotel near Lagos city center. The main building is a 19th-century estate house fully renovated and decorated with vintage furniture. The Cabanas building décor will make you feel at a relaxing beach house. Jogo da Bola building is the newest addition, where minimalism meets local crafts.
At Casa Mãe, you can enjoy a spa circuit and treatments, a fully equipped gym, and yoga therapy. At the Orta Restaurant, you can savor carefully designed menus of seasonal local produce. Accommodation rates vary between 180€ to 300€ per night for a standard room.
Aldeia de Pedralva - At 30 minutes driving distance from Lagos, you’ll find Pedralva, a charismatic village deep in the Costa Vicentina Natural Park. Desertification left Pedralva with only 9 inhabitants of the original 100. As a result, in 2006, most of its houses were abandoned. Now that it’s restored, Pedralva welcomes all visitors.
Here, you can experience what it’s like to live in an authentic Algarve hamlet. During your stay, you can explore Pedralva’s surroundings on a mountain bike, go hiking, or rejoice in birdwatching. At Sítio da Pedralva restaurant, you can taste the best our local cuisine offers. You can find a one-bedroom country house for 100-200€ per night.
What to see & do in Lagos
Praia da Dona Ana
While the list below is by no means all (or even many) of the things you can do in and around Lagos, it’s a representation of many of my favorites. I think all of them are musts for any first time visit. I hope you enjoy!
1. Explore the Ancient City Walls
Lagos City Walls date back to the Roman Empire and were later rebuilt by the Moorish. In the 16th century, the walls were enlarged due to the city’s expansion. Nowadays, most of the walls are gone, but you can still admire its magnificence.
2. Admire Santo António Church
The church’s modest façade hides one of the city’s treasures: a stunning Baroque gilded altar. The intricate details of the woodwork are like something you’ve never seen! On the walls, you’ll see panels of traditional Portuguese tiles and a colorful painting of the Portuguese coat of arms on the ceiling.
3. Visit the Forte da Ponta da Bandeira
Outside Lagos’ City Walls, you’ll find this late-17th-century fortress. The well-preserved monument has protected Lagos for centuries. Today, the restored draw bridge allows you inside, where you’ll find a small chapel dedicated to Santa Barbára and a set of traditional Portuguese blue and white tiles.
Forte da Ponta da Bandeira. Photo: Matthias Süßen , CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
4. Visit the Museu Municipal Dr. José Formosinho
Adjacent to Santo António Church, you’ll find the city’s museum. There, you can admire artifacts dating back to the Romans and Moors, as well as sacred art and a medal and numismatic collection.
5. Learn about science at the Centro de Ciência Viva
I’m aware that it seems a bit odd to list a science museum as something to do in a coast town, but it’s a great activity if you’re traveling with kids and need to entertain them with something other than the beach.
Besides visiting their permanent exhibitions, you can join a night sky observation and a guided hiking tour among dinosaur footprints.
6. Take a boat or kayak tour to the Ponta da Piedade caves
The seascape at Ponta da Piedade is one of the most visited landmarks in the Algarve, and for good reason The waves and wind have sculpted the imposing limestone cliffs over millennia, and the rock formations are truly stunning.
Although you can visit Ponta da Piedade on foot, it’s really best seen from the water. So, join a boat or kayak tour.
Ponta da Piedade
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7. Relax at the beach
In Lagos, there are not shortage of beaches to choose from. Praia Camilo, Dona Ana, and Estudantes are perfect for relaxation and landscape photography.
When going to the beaches here, always be sure to check the tide chart first. These are all beaches located along the cliffs, and they have very narrow sand banks. This means that at high tide, they get very crowded.
8. Visit the Wax Museum of the Portuguese Discoveries
Outside Lagos city center, you can visit a wax museum dedicated to the Portuguese Discoveries. Besides learning about the city's history, you’ll also get to know the famous explorers Vasco da Gama and Infante D. Henrique.
9. Go to the Zoo de Lagos
At 20 minutes driving distance from Lagos, the Zoo de Lagos is perfect for families. Besides getting to see the incredible species on site, during the summer, the zoo also has an artificial beach for visitors to cool off at. You can also learn about the zoo partnerships and conservation and research efforts.
10. Join a Jeep Safari to Costa Vicentina Park
It’s the perfect way to explore the Costa Vicentina Natural Park! The jeep tour will take you off-road into Sagres, Cape St. Vincent (the most southwestern point in Europe), Vila do Bispo, and Carrapateira. Along the way, you’ll discover Pedralva, a small hamlet fully restored to its former glory.
Carrapateira beach in the Costa Vicentina Park
11. Take a surfing lesson
There are many surfing schools in Lagos or anywhere along the West Coast. Regardless of your experience level, you can join a surfing class with a qualified instructor.
If you’re an experienced surfer, you can also rent equipment from these surfing schools.
12. Go golfing
The Algarve has some of the best golf courses in Europe and has grown as a golf destination over the years. Near to Lagos, you have Palmares Golf Course, a beautifully designed 27-hole course overlooking the ocean. Remember to book in advance to guarantee availability.
13. Take a day trip to Sagres and the West Coast
If a jeep safari is too much adventure, you can always take a day trip to Sagres and explore nature yourself. My recommendations: visit the Sagres Fortress and Cape St. Vincent lighthouse, a drive along the coast towards the towns of Carrapateira, Arrifana, and Odeceixe. You’ll be amazed at the scenic views.
Arrifana town and beach
Restaurants & dining in Lagos
With countless tapas bars, cheerful seafood grill spots, traditional restaurants, and fine dining establishments, Lagos has enough dining options to last you weeks. Below are three of my favorite spots for a great dinner.
O Camilo
Overlooking Camilo beach, near Ponta da Piedade, restaurant O Camilo offers the most beautiful ocean views. Enjoy a seafood cataplana or local grilled fish over a glass of white wine - you’ll never want to leave.
Don Sebastião
If traditional Algarvian food is what you’re looking for, Don Sebastião restaurant is the place to go. Opened in 1979, Don Sebastião restaurant is known for its cozy décor and delicious homemade food. You have to try the seafood rice or the grilled codfish.
Casinha do Petisco
In Lagos city center, Casinha do Petisco offers the best local gastronomy in generous portions. Besides the Cataplanas, try the Carne de Porco à Alentejana or the Ameijôas à Bulhão Pato. You can thank me later!
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